Bob Blosl's Heritage Large Fowl Thread

[punky rooster]

so safest is to wait 30 days

 

[Chickielady]

https://www.backyardchickens.com/web/viewblog.php?id=22465-our-crele-oegbs

A friend here in WA state's 4-H project birds...very nice !

Thanks for the info on sperm life, I will have mine waite longer then, if necessary.
So far, I have all my cocks with the same hens...but I am switching some marans hens in with the ameraucana for olive egger chicks...so will not set her eggs for 30 days as she was in with the 2 Marans cocks prior..

 

[Yard full o' rocks]

Afternoon folks.....preparing for snow here (you folks up north will just laugh at us) but we are expecting an inch of ice then 4-6" of snow. WACKY weather for us and NO equipment to deal with it. Oh well....we have 1/2 cord of wood on the back porch and plenty of groceries.

Now, back to the topic of chickens. I've been wondering where all you experts with MANY yrs of expertise are on this question. Keeping in mind that we want to breed for resistance and vigor, exactly what do you "treat" your birds for, if anything?

Do you immunize and/or treat for:

Cocci (other than giving chicks medicated feed)
Mareks
Respiratory infections?
Worms/regular wormings? If so, when and how frequently, with what?
Etc
Etc

Hatching season is right around the corner and I want to start out on the right foot....

I hear from some folks that they won't treat for ANYTHING, that if you accept/treat sick birds, then you will always have sick birds.

So, Walt, Bob, Chris, Saladin, Jim etc, etc....what do you folks say?

Thanks folks!!

Scott

 

[saladin]

It all depends on how you are breeding on whether or not you need to wait.

For example, I have a pen of full sister Cubalayas. I rotate cocks in and out every 10 days. This way I know they are all covered and the genetic diversity of my chicks is maintained.

In single mated pens, yes I wait at least 30 days.

 

[saladin]

Yard full o' rocks :

Afternoon folks.....preparing for snow here (you folks up north will just laugh at us) but we are expecting an inch of ice then 4-6" of snow. WACKY weather for us and NO equipment to deal with it. Oh well....we have 1/2 cord of wood on the back porch and plenty of groceries.

Now, back to the topic of chickens. I've been wondering where all you experts with MANY yrs of expertise are on this question. Keeping in mind that we want to breed for resistance and vigor, exactly what do you "treat" your birds for, if anything?

Do you immunize and/or treat for:

Cocci (other than giving chicks medicated feed)
Mareks
Respiratory infections?
Worms/regular wormings? If so, when and how frequently, with what?
Etc
Etc

Hatching season is right around the corner and I want to start out on the right foot....

I hear from some folks that they won't treat for ANYTHING, that if you accept/treat sick birds, then you will always have sick birds.

So, Walt, Bob, Chris, Saladin, Jim etc, etc....what do you folks say?

Thanks folks!!

Scott

I do not vaccinate for anything.

I do worm twice a year.
I have amprolium on hand for cocci outbreaks.
I utilize Sulmet and Oxytetracycline when necessary.
I use a hatch most of all.​

 

[Chris09]

Quote:
I do not vaccinate for anything.

I do worm twice a year.
I have amprolium on hand for cocci outbreaks.
I utilize Sulmet and Oxytetracycline when necessary.
I use a hatch most of all.

Same here, but I will add that I have used Gallimycin for Respiratory infection.

Chris

 

[saladin]

I'm with Chris; I've used Gallimycin too. I just prefer the Oxytetracycline.

If you can get your vet to get it for you, Baytril is the best resp. med on the market, but it is very expensive. Hatchet is alot cheaper.

 

[HallFamilyFarm]

I will worm if it appears I need to. Otherwise, I only use a medicated chick starter. General rule, if a bird gets ill, it either survives or it does not. My son's male did get ill at Thanksgiving. Because it was his, we did medicate. Gave wormer and then Amoxicillin. We already had the Amoxicillin, just had to figure how much to give for body weight. We also gave baby chick vitamin water. Took a few days, but he is back with the hens now. But I grew up on a 700+ acre organic farm. Just really don't like to medicate. If your breeders are healthy and you feed good, the chicks should be healthy. We are also NPIP and try to maintain a closed flock as much as we can.

We had gotten a pair of Turkeys for our county fair etc and a few weeks later the source flock lost two turkeys. The state lab determined it was cecal worms. Thus we went ahead and wormed the flock, starting with my son's bird.

 

[Chickielady]

I vaccinate for Marek's and Newcastle.
These seem to be prominent in the area, but numerous folks who show alot out here and go state to state recommend ILT, and IB vaccinations....infectious bronchitis and infectious laryngo ...supposed to be a bad one at shows.
This recommended by members who show alot.
I keep amprolium on hand (Corrid), but we have usually up to 100 pounds of chick starter handy and is just as easy to give any birds showing a sign of cocci, a handful or two of medicated chick starter instead of going through the hassle of mixing the Corrid in their water.
Corrid is so expensive, I won't buy it again as we already have the chick starter.
Any birds expendible, especially those chronically ill, are culled to strengthen the flock.
I have on hand LS-50 (spectromycin) and Neomycin on hand for outbreaks...I use DE dust on all feeds including my dogs, and worm with wazine 2x a year.
All birds have a sand/DE dust bath in their coops as well, so not mites/lice.

 

[Chickielady]

Quote:
You are not lying there !