Brinsea Octagon 20 advance incubator review

av8torcrj

Songster
7 Years
Jun 25, 2013
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The following is a review of the octagon 20 advance incubator manufactured by Brinsea. The information contained herein is a factual account and reflection of my personal experience and opinion.
I am no stranger to managing poultry in general, chickens specifically. I have raised hundreds at various times. I have, however, only owned one incubator in the past, an old brower "tin hen", the thing that looks like a galvanized wash tub. That unit provided me a hatch rate of zero as I recall. That, considering I have successfully hatched chickens in an old kitchen oven with a ceramic heater, was, in a word, disappointing. Recently I began researching a better product.
After hours of scanning the Internet for the best bang for the buck, I decided on a Brinsea product. The reviews were by-in-large positive and I had no intention of buying a styrofoam box. Pricing was certainly a consideration and Brinsea products did fall at the upper end of what I wanted to spend. I struggled with the choice between a scratch and dent unit versus the most basic/cheapest model. I knew I really wanted an automatic turner and strongly preferred the digital controls. After much contemplation and finding a Black Friday deal ( check their Facebook page for discounts) offering an additional 20% off the advance models, I bit the bullet and purchased the Octagon 20 advance directly from Brinsea for $279.99 plus $24 shipping.
The order was placed on December 2, 2013 and the incubator arrived via UPS within 3 days. I found the unit to be thoughtfully packaged and was undamaged. I immediately noticed the fit/feel/finish of the product seemed superior to the quality of consumer goods ( which in my experience always ultimately fail) coming out of china that I have grown so accustomed to. In my excitement I plugged it in and within 15 minutes it had stabilized at 99.6 degrees. The digital controls were easy to understand after a little button pushing. The written instructions regarding them were a bit confusing to me but I didn't study them that long. Overall, my first impression was again, positive.
24 eggs were placed in the incubator on December 9th at 12:45 pm. In order to fit they had to be placed large end up within the racks as is customary. This seems an unnatural position but I realize that's how it's done. These eggs were collected over a period of time from my small Rhode Island Red flock. Let it be known that some of these eggs were over 2 weeks old, 7 had been mistakenly refrigerated for several days, and a few had been soiled and had had the poop cleaned off. These weren't exactly prime hatching candidates.
The incubator was initially placed on a dresser in my bed room. The units' fan emits a gentle hum. I live in a home with older wiring and I noticed at night when another appliance such as an electric heater would come on the frequency of the sound emitted by the incubators fan would change ever so slightly. This was just enough to " catch my ear". I eventually moved the unit to the kitchen where it remained until hatch. I don't consider this a fault.
The stability of the temperature within the incubator was impressive, basically rock solid at 99.6 with an occasional transient 99.5-99.7. Humidity control was a breeze. I simply filled one channel of the water reservoir and varied the opening of the vent to control the percent RH. My goal was to simply follow the directions provided by Brinsea, 45-50% till day 18. The turner was essentially silent. It was lubricated per the instructions.
Candling on day 7 revealed one infertile which was verified by inspection. The 23 remaining showed encouraging progress.
The unit was removed from the turner on day 18. The only intervention during those previous days was to add water maybe 4-5 times. I increased the humidity for lockdown to 65-70% per instructions by simply filling both water channels and adding a paper towel which acted as a wick ( towel was my idea not Brinseas). I figured the paper towel would also make post hatch clean-up easier. Again, humidity control was simple. Very slight adjustments to the vent made significant RH changes.
First pip was noted at 8am on day 20. I have found that pip does not mean ready to hatch, only ready to breath. In my opinion, the over anxious observer that equates a delay after pip as distress and chooses to intervene is really setting themselves up for failure. Leave them alone and the incubator closed! Only the birds know when the time is right. We've bred broodiness out of most chickens lets not get them to the point of needing a C-section after 21 days.
The first hatch was 16 hours after first pip, 12 hours ahead of a full 21 days. It is my belief and observation that the sounds and movement of the chicks stimulate or encourage the surrounding eggs to hatch as evidenced by the " popcorn" effect once one or two are out and chirping. Final count was 20 out of 23 or 87%. I did not use the periodic cool down feature during this incubation. The 3 losses were very late, one pip no zip, two no pip. Inspection suggests one death estimated at day 18-19. The other two were full term. I suspect the loss might have been secondary to the rolling of the eggs by the early hatches during a time when stability is preferred, one potential drawback to the " popcorn" effect I guess.
In summary, I am VERY happy with this incubator and feel like I made a good choice. Really the only thing I might add to the product is backlighting to the digital display for nighttime checks. I am confident that the unit will provide many years of reliable service. So far Brinsea has been receptive to my questions and has proven easy to work with. I can recommend the octagon 20 advance to anyone in the market for a quality product that performs.
 
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Another successful hatch courtesy of the Brinsea octagon 20 advance. Twenty healthy chicks out of 24 eggs placed on 2/12/14 at 1 pm. Two eggs were infertile so lets call it 90% hatch rate. Day 7 candle revealed a blood ring and was removed. The other loss appeared to occur around day 18. That chicks head was noted at the small end of the egg upon inspection. During this hatch I did quickly pull the birds as they appeared and placed them in a brooder to avoid them rolling over the other eggs that had begun to pip. I attributed three late failures during the last hatch because the chicks were doing this. While this violates the "leave the incubator closed theory", the Brinsea design allows for rapid humidity recovery ( virtually instantly) if opened only momentarily. Further, this results in a lot less chick dander collecting in some of the difficult to reach places to clean in the incubator. I suffered no losses by my doing this.
Neither the auto turner nor the cool down function were utilized. Turning was done manually throughout the day per the design feature--rotating the entire case. Humidity levels were maintained between 40-50% till day 18 then raised to 65-70%. Again a wet paper towel was added to increase humidity during lock down. It was necessary to add water to the humidity channel approximately every 3-4 days from start to day 18.
First pip noted 6am day 20. First hatch 6 pm day 20. Last hatch 1pm day 21.
The incubator continues to work as designed and I am quite satisfied.
 
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Thank you so much for your review! I'm waffling between a Brinsea 20 Advance and an RCom 20 and this review pushed me a little more toward Brinsea.

Overall, how much babysitting did the Brinsea require? Last year when I hatched eggs I was working part time so I was able to do a lot of babysitting of my Genesis and Little Giant incubators, which was VERY necessary, VERY stressful, and caused me to break out in cold sores (ick). I work full-time now so I need an incubator that I don't have to watch constantly and don't have to worry about when I'm at work. Is this the one for me?
 
In an effort to save yourself some money I encourage you to shop around for coupons and specials. I have found considerable savings to be had on these incubators with a little research. Good luck and have fun. I think you will ultimately be happy with your purchase.
 
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I went with the Octogon 20 with auto turner. Wow!! Last year my mouth was encircled by cold sores (gross, I know) because of the stress of worrying about my stupid foam incubators and having to constantly adjust them. The Octogon really was a "set it and forget it" incubator. I think I had to add water twice. I love how when you take the lid off to add water or inspect the eggs, the temp and humidity come back up in almost less than a minute once the lid is back on. And the temp and humidity NEVER wavered. I think perhaps my thermometer read a little higher than what the temp inside really was (I didn't put a second one in) because my eggs hatched at days 22-23, but my hatch rate was great and no cold sores!!!
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Update. Had a 100% hatch on some assorted duck eggs and most recently a successful (10 out of 12 ) goose egg hatch. Of the two failures on the geese, one egg was always weird and developed no discernible air cell late in incubation. That chick pipped at the bottom of the egg and died. The other failure was a late no-pip death. This is a great little machine that works as advertised.
 
I have the octagon 20 advance with humidity pump and don't have a bad word to say about it. It's totally set and forget, no babysitting or messing with it all. I just top the water tank up 2-3 times during incubation and that's it. It has produced me some fabulous results and lots of beautiful chicks!!

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Just a little addition from me: I have had some issues with the thermometer with both my Brinseas (Octagon Advance 20 with external humidity pump, and Advanced Eco for 7 eggs). One shows too high temperatures, and one shows too low temperatures. The temperature is constant, so once I figured out the difference, I just changed the temp settings and everything was fine.

I know more people who have had this problem, so I strongly advice to buy a precise thermometer to check the temp before starting the incubator, and occasionally throughout the hatching. Supposedly you can fix the calibration yourself, or send it for recalibration with the supplier. So far I haven't bothered - it works just fine as long as I correct for the temp deviation.
 

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