Brooder advice needed

[Jomofo]

Hey guys, the room I had my brooder in, in my house is no longer going to be an option to use so I have a question...If I build an outdoor brooder that will keep my chicks dry, will it be healthy for them to go from newly hatched chicks to under a light in an outdoor brooder? It wouldn't have heat other than of course, a heat lamp. Thanks in advance for your help/advice.

 

[WildAtHart]

If it were me, I'd be super sure to make every effort all sides were covered/wrapped tight as draft free as much as possible. Solid bottom, insulation like CRAZY!

 

[Plip]

That depends on a few things, but the bottom line is whether you can keep it 95 degrees for that first week. Probably not unless it's completely enclosed and insulated or you live somewhere really warm!

 

[Jomofo]

I live in virginia and it's still cold here. How old do they need to be before I move them outside?

 

[Plip]

I live in virginia and it's still cold here. How old do they need to be before I move them outside?

The standard answer is the don't need heat anymore when the chick is fully feathered. The average (depending on breed) is about six weeks.

 

[ChickNanny13]

Read "Mama Heating Pad" but Blooie, very informative & helpful

 

[Jomofo]

Awsome. Thanks guys!

 

[aart]

Many folks brood newly hatched chicks outside.

Here's my notes on chick heat, hope something in there might help:

They need to be pretty warm(~85-90F on the brooder floor right under the lamp and 10-20 degrees cooler at the other end of brooder) for the first day or two, especially if they have been shipped, until they get to eating, drinking and moving around well. But after that it's best to keep them as cool as possible for optimal feather growth and quicker acclimation to outside temps. A lot of chick illnesses are attributed to too warm of a brooder. I do think it's a good idea to use a thermometer on the floor of the brooder to check the temps, especially when new at brooding, later I still use it but more out of curiosity than need.


The best indicator of heat levels is to watch their behavior:
If they are huddled/piled up right under the lamp and cheeping very loudly, they are too cold.
If they are spread out on the absolute edges of the brooder as far from the lamp as possible, panting and/or cheeping very loudly, they are too hot.
If they sleep around the edge of the lamp calmly just next to each other and spend time running all around the brooder they are juuuust right!

The lamp is best at one end of the brooder with food/water at the other cooler end of the brooder, so they can get away from the heat or be under it as needed. Wattage of 'heat' bulb depends on size of brooder and ambient temperature of room brooder is in. Regular incandescent bulbs can be used, you might not need a 'heat bulb'. You can get red colored incandescent bulbs at a reptile supply source. A dimmer extension cord is an excellent way to adjust the output of the bulb to change the heat without changing the height of the lamp.


Or you could go with a heat plate, commercially made or DIY: http://www.backyardchickens.com/a/pseudo-brooder-heater-plate

 

[Ol Grey Mare]

Read "Mama Heating Pad" but Blooie, very informative & helpful

X2
I brood in the otherwise unheated coop using a mhp. It was 23(F) last night and my 5 day old chicks are happy as can be. Provided the outdoor brooder provides appropriate protection from the elements and predators and you have and appropriate source of warmth for the chicks it is entirely possible.

 

[Jomofo]

Good stuff here. Thank you!

Many folks brood newly hatched chicks outside.

Here's my notes on chick heat, hope something in there might help:

They need to be pretty warm(~85-90F on the brooder floor right under the lamp and 10-20 degrees cooler at the other end of brooder) for the first day or two, especially if they have been shipped, until they get to eating, drinking and moving around well. But after that it's best to keep them as cool as possible for optimal feather growth and quicker acclimation to outside temps. A lot of chick illnesses are attributed to too warm of a brooder. I do think it's a good idea to use a thermometer on the floor of the brooder to check the temps, especially when new at brooding, later I still use it but more out of curiosity than need.


The best indicator of heat levels is to watch their behavior:
If they are huddled/piled up right under the lamp and cheeping very loudly, they are too cold.
If they are spread out on the absolute edges of the brooder as far from the lamp as possible, panting and/or cheeping very loudly, they are too hot.
If they sleep around the edge of the lamp calmly just next to each other and spend time running all around the brooder they are juuuust right!

The lamp is best at one end of the brooder with food/water at the other cooler end of the brooder, so they can get away from the heat or be under it as needed. Wattage of 'heat' bulb depends on size of brooder and ambient temperature of room brooder is in. Regular incandescent bulbs can be used, you might not need a 'heat bulb'. You can get red colored incandescent bulbs at a reptile supply source. A dimmer extension cord is an excellent way to adjust the output of the bulb to change the heat without changing the height of the lamp.


Or you could go with a heat plate, commercially made or DIY: http://www.backyardchickens.com/a/pseudo-brooder-heater-plate