BS Bronze Genetics Question

[Shepicca]

I bought a trio of yearling BS Bronze in the spring. Unfortunately the male has recently died and as they are rare where I am, I am wondering if I used a BS blue male on the two BS Bronze hens would I get a BS Bronze out of that cross? What would I get out of that cross? Would I have to cross back to get Bronze?
So disappointed that he died, I have wanted one for a long time
thanks in advance for any guidance

 

[Garden Peas]

I bought a trio of yearling BS Bronze in the spring. Unfortunately the male has recently died and as they are rare where I am, I am wondering if I used a BS blue male on the two BS Bronze hens would I get a BS Bronze out of that cross? What would I get out of that cross? Would I have to cross back to get Bronze?
So disappointed that he died, I have wanted one for a long time
thanks in advance for any guidance

So sorry for your loss! Losing any pea is hard, and it's even harder when it's a cherished bird..

No, sadly, you won't get bronze chicks -- it's not a sex-linked gene. What you will get are chicks which visibly appear IB BS, but which each carry a bronze gene (your hens each have two bronze genes).

If you breed a male chick back to the hens, half (statistically) of the offspring will be BS bronze, since the male chick will carry one bronze gene and two BS genes. If you breed a male chick from the IB x bronze cross to a female chick of the same breeding, you can hope for approximately 1/4 bronze BS chicks (each of those parents will have one bronze gene to contribute and two BS genes). You will also get some straight IB BS chicks (no bronze gene) and some (generally about half) chicks which, like their parents, carry two BS genes and one bronze gene. We call that "split to bronze."

Hope this helps! Do you know how to draw punnett squares?

 

[Garden Peas]

Might be best to try to replace the male, since it will take about 5 years to get bronzes of your own through crossing back.

More urgently, do you know what caused the loss of your male? Don't want you to lose either of the hens... peas can be a little touchy and too easy to lose. Feel free to ask for help -- we will do our best to help you figure out and prevent any more losses.

Again, so sorry you lost him.

 

[Shepicca]

Bummer! Thanks Garden Peas. I kind of figured that was what would happen but I was really hoping I was wrong.
He was sickly when I got him. Baytril seemed to clear it up but it obviously sneaked back when I wasn't paying attention and by the time I noticed he was sick again it was too late.
The breeder I got him from is hatching chicks as we speak, so I can hopefully get one from there. I think I will try and pick up a mature BS male too, just in case I have to take the long route and it would give me a different bloodline to cross into.
thanks again

 

[Garden Peas]

Good plan!

Only thing I would add is, go over the hens with a fine tooth comb! Check body condition (feel their keels & get a baseline weight), look for lice and treat for external parasites, do a five day worming with fenbendazole if you haven't yet. Check their poo and make sure it is totally normal. Examine them for any signs of respiratory illness and/or sinus infections, listen for sneezing or wheezing, look for nasal discharge or swelling (even slight swelling) above, below or near the eyes. Look for gunk or caked residue on the beak or anything drippy. Check out their appetites, posture and general demeanor/happiness. Also watch for any signs of shivering, weakness of failure to eat or drink.

And DON'T put the fenbendazole in their water when you worm!!! . Put it on bread or in a treat...

I'm kinda worried about the "sickly when I got him" angle... breeder should only be selling healthy birds imho. Not sure what happened there, but it might be something to discuss...

 

[barkerg]

My golden rule for peas especially true in Greens, is to look at the hen. She will usually tell you the truth on the said colors or expected colors. Garden Peas is right on the money, this goes for almost all animals that are suspect to parasites, unless you were there watching the parasite eradication such as deworming, assume they that it was not done and do it. When in doubt, whip it out.
GP you are the bomb and I love your posts by the way!

Gerald Barker

 

[Shepicca]

Just wondering, there seems to be a lot of different dosages for fenbendazole. Is it 3 mls by mouth for 3 days or 5 days and then repeat all 3 or 5 days in 10 days time? Or 3mls by mouth once or??

Irene

 

[barkerg]

Just wondering, there seems to be a lot of different dosages for [COLOR=333333]fenbendazole.  Is it 3 mls by mouth for 3 days or 5 days and then repeat all 3 or 5 days in 10 days time?  Or 3mls by mouth once or??[/COLOR]

[COLOR=333333]Irene[/COLOR]

3ml's is a bit high for an adult pea, we use 1.5mls when given orally for 5 days and repeat after 10 days. Highly unlikely that 3ml would OD an adult pea, its really hard to kill an animal with dewormers unless you are really trying.

Gerald Barker

 

[casportpony]

Quote: My large adult males weigh 6 kg, so they get 3 ml (50 mg/kg) orally for 5 days. I know it seems like a lot, but it is what many vets recommend. Did you know that dogs and cats get 50 mg/kg? It's only goats, cows and horses that get the amount shown on the bottle of Safeguard.


Roundworm




Cecal worm




Capillary worms




Gapeworm




Tapeworm




Coccidia




-Kathy

 

[Shepicca]

My large adult males weigh 6 kg, so they get 3 ml (50 mg/kg) orally for 5 days. I know it seems like a lot, but it is what many vets recommend. Did you know that dogs and cats get 50 mg/kg? It's only goats, cows and horses that get the amount shown on the bottle of Safeguard.


-Kathy

Do you repeat the whole 5 days of treatment after a 10 day waiting period?

Irene