Building a 6x16ft Lean to Chicken Run

[Matejka]

Looks like you could get rain in the area around the peak of the tsc coop?

Aart-you were right! It rained in. I have it wrapped in plastic now to block wind and rain. I found some clear polycarbonate panels 18"x51". I think I'll make some awnings to block rain.

 

[perkolator]

If you use the PT lumber and metal roof, it should last well over a decade.

I don't know enough about framing for snow loads, but my gut says you'll need a beam or some decent support across the top plate with your wall framing so widely spaced. I'd consider going for 2x6 rafters instead of 2x4s, due to the potential snow load, it's not that much of a price difference in the long run IMO and you're already saving $ from your leftover materials being used - again, I'd reference snow load framing since your roof isn't really that large, perhaps you can get away with using the 2x4s.

Personally would likely skip the plywood underneath the corrugated metal roof, as it will add more weight and expense - instead, just add a few extra purlins on top of your rafters for support. Dunno if I'd add a back wall with the fence right there in close proximity, but it would definitely add a lot of stability to the structure if you include it.

 

[SandyRiverChick]

The pitch is going to send snow over and behind the fence, correct? Being from Alaska, my experience was this will be strong enough with 2.4's or 2.6, up to you. My opinion is the plan looks great. Welcome to BYC! Good luck! Post pics of progress....

 

[ninamarie8253]

Thank you so so much you guys!!!! Glad for the quick responses.
Okay so perlins (aka 1x3s right?) instead of plywood at the top (what spacing do they need to be?). Stick with 2x6's for the roof, and yes we want the snow to go behind the fence. I just wasnt sure if we should protect the back fencing from getting gross with chicken poop - which is why I put the plywood wall in the back. Thank you guys!!

BTW if I have a 3.5x4.5 coop large enough for up to 5 regular sized chickens, and we want to have a few regular and a few silkies, can I get away with a 6ftx12ft run instead of a 16ft long run? Or bad idea - give them the extra space? My husband is worried we're taking over the yard too much lol. Thank you!

Also, anything cheaper I can do for the roof besides metal? And what screws do I use for drilling into the metal? Thank you!

 

[perkolator]

IMO bigger is always better if you can manage. I believe minimum square footage is something like 4 sq/ft inside coops, and 10 sq/ft in runs. Keep in mind this is a minimum and when you see it in person, it's quite like chicken jail IMO and definitely a minimum. Chickens can be savage a-holes to one another, so more space to get away from each other is always better.

At my local hardware store, metal roof panels are only like $2 more than the opaque plastic ones. I know the metal will last longer in my region, but I dunno about your region with snow as a factor. Typical screws to use are the hex-head roofing screws with the rubber washers.

Is this coop going to be attached to the fence, or spaced away?

 

[3KillerBs]

Also, anything cheaper I can do for the roof besides metal? And what screws do I use for drilling into the metal? Thank you!

Depending on local price variations, metal on purlins is often very close to the price of shingles on plywood -- given that plywood is so high right now.

With self-tapping screws designed for metal (get them from the supplier of the roofing), and a battery powered impact driver (ours is a DeWalt 20V) to set them, metal roofing is amazingly simple to install this way.

The one possible issue *could* be condensation depending on your climate. Excellent ventilation under the roof slope can help a lot for that.

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/repecka-illustrates-coop-ventilation.77659/

Question,

Why 6x16? Designing in multiples of 4-feet is usually more efficient use of materials.

 

[3KillerBs]

Hopefully metal is OK for under trees in NJ.

Probably. You'd have to check with the manufacturer of the metal roofing to be certain. Their website probably has a "contact us" button.

Do I NEED a 4x4 outer frame? Or can I get away with using 2x4s anywhere that I have 4x4s?

I can't say. I'm not an engineer and don't know anything about designing for snow load.

Over-engineering is a family tradition for both sides of the family so I wouldn't, but that doesn't mean it can't be done safely.

Can you consult local builders?

Is OSB 7/16 in. Sheathing Panel Plywood ok to use on the roof and back wall? Depending on how far the spacing needs to be for purlins, its almost the same price. How far apart do perlins need to be spaced? And the 2x6s for trusses - is 20" ok?

@U_Stormcrow knows more about this than I do when it comes to roof specs.

Can I build the frame right ontop of flattened out gravel? Do I need any sort of a concrete footer?

Is your area subject to frost heaving?

Will you be planting your posts in the ground or just sitting a frame on top?

Do local building codes address this in re: sheds, etc?

 

[ninamarie8253]

I own the fence, and the land on the other side of the fence is township property, its swamp lands so nobody will be building on it.
When you say rain coming off causing issues, what do u mean?

I've revised the plan to be a little more affordable using 2x4s, let me know what you think of this?

 

[ninamarie8253]

Thank you guys for your insight!! I was now considering maybe just using a mesh wire top and getting rid of the lean to design - but instead going with a flat top using 1x2” wire? My only concern is the run getting wet, someone told me to put down mulch over gravel to reduce the mud, that’s an option. And they can go inside the coop to seek shelter. But is this just a bad way to build a chicken run? Knowing snow and rain will come through? Is a metal top necessary or much more preferred? We bought most of the wood, using 4x4 corner posts and 2x6 foundation surrounding the base ontop of gravel. And 2x6” but how far apart do they need to be spaced if doing wire vs metal?

As far as codes go, I see this:
- Fences used for farming are permitted to be six feet in height in side and rear yards and four feet in height in front yards
- On any lot in any district, no wall or fence shall be erected or altered so that said wall or fence shall be over six feet in height, such fences to be permitted in the side and rear yards only.

So if that’s the case, a lean to roof to go over our fence would need to be 8ft tall, aka too tall right? Could I put the run 1.5ft-2ft from the fence and have snow dump infront?

We start building this week

 

[3KillerBs]

As far as codes go, I see this:
- Fences used for farming are permitted to be six feet in height in side and rear yards and four feet in height in front yards
- On any lot in any district, no wall or fence shall be erected or altered so that said wall or fence shall be over six feet in height, such fences to be permitted in the side and rear yards only.

So if that’s the case, a lean to roof to go over our fence would need to be 8ft tall, aka too tall right?

That depends on the definition of "fence".

With a roof on it that might considered a shed, a pavilion, or a carport by code.

We really need to know your general location to give the best advice about this because your climate has a MASSIVE effect on how best to house and manage your birds.