Building new coop in old cow barn

[Fillymj]

Plan to keep traps set in the barn but outside the coop.
Keep your feed in a metal container... garbage can, old freezer, etc.
Spill proof feeder helps too.
Works here.

Only the very smallest mice....the bigger ones get stuck.
View attachment 2015995

Ugh .........gross.

 

[mag7mm]

I would personally look more at were your located for winter and summer comfort for your birds. Some individuals build large coops for roosting and than have to try and keep them heated for the winter. I have a 4ft by 4ft by 6ft tall coop witch in the winter holds up to 5 chickens at roost and even a duck or two may wonder in at night with a cat. They snuggle up next to each other and roost just fine on a 2x6 were they can lay right down on. I only need to have a heat lamp on when temps drop to freezing at night. The smaller coop holds there heat and they do just fine through northern wisconsin winters. Now although there coop is small there run were food and water is measures 4ft by 8ft and during the day the door is open to free range outside. They need there space during the day! If you have a dog or two around the majority of preditors are going to stay back and a couple of tom cats raised from kittens around the birds will take care of mice, weasels etc. I live in a heavily wooded parcel with ducks chickens ect. and have no issues with having my dogs and cats around. So basic chicken fence properly installed with a door would be just fine with with a little help from some pets.

 

[dirkandlorie]

FRP panels will be flush. Will use corner trim kits so no area is exposed. Will be mounted on top of plywood. It is attractive with stucco look.

Getting new door with half window. Yes I am very concerned about mink & weasel. Will replace any lumber that is weakened.
Is 16 gauge half inch welded wire strong enough or should I get 14 gauge?

Wow you are up north. Much colder then us. All but one chick have single combs with Wyandotte having rose comb.

Still working on the heat issue. We seldom have power outages and don’t last long if we do. Can always hook up genarator, in the 30 years I have lived here only used once for heat. I am going to put the heater in but don’t know that I will use it. Will keep studying what is the best for the flock.

Thanks for your info.

I'm further south than you, temps have gone down to zero here and many farmers here have lost chickens to freezing weather. I hear people say all the time that chickens don't need heat, but I know I couldn't bear it if one of mine died because the food in their crop froze, or got frostbite. This seems to be a very controversial subject on this website, so I just usually keep my mouth shut. (Not tonight, obviously. Lol) I use an oil filled radiating heater in my coop. When temps drop below freezing, its just enough to keep it about 35 in the coop. If a power outage should occur, they are still adjusted to the cold. Also, mice can still get in your coop with half inch hardware cloth. I'd recommend the quarter inch hardware cloth so you don't have to deal with mouse problems.

 

[Fluffyflufffluff]

Have my first 8 chicks coming the end of March. Renovating milking parlor into the coop. The space is 15‘ x 9.6. Two walls need to be built. Hired my carpenter and electrician to do the work. Electrician will remove old wiring as well as update the entire coop. Planning on using 16 gauge welded wire 1/2 inch for windows and runs. Thinking will attach the wire also where ceilings and walls connect so no predators can get in. FRP panels will be attached 4’ around entire room for easy cleaning.

These are items I am putting in. Please feel free to add in your thoughts on where I am lacking.
12” exhaust fan

2 5/8 smoothed handrail for roost. Is this wide enough?

Medium rollaway nest-Best Nest Box-near roost should I move it further away?

HeimVision camera so I can watch that all are in the coop at night and to make sure no predators.

Chicken door with automatic open & close to run.

Kalglo Poultry heater over roost. Understand that quite a few folks don’t like heaters. With automatic shut off can keep roost at 35 degrees for the really cold nights. It will be properly wired and have a protective wire on it for any flying chicken. Every 3 years or so we will get a brutal week of -30 weather. Will move the chickens into a large heated barn with the horses. Just can’t stand the thought of frostbite and would like it easy for me also when caring for the animals In that type of weather.

Here is the barn currently. Will start work in a month or so when the temperature is higher.

View attachment 2011475View attachment 2011476View attachment 2011477View attachment 2011478View attachment 2011479

That's such a nice place for the chicks, Its very spacious. how many are you planning to have, what breed? and do you still plan to have cows?

 

[Fillymj]

Thanks folks for all the suggestions. Since last post have
redesigned the coop and added in your suggestions.

1. bought 1/4 inch wire to attach at wall/ceiling and floor.

2. very happy with 1/2 wire from fencing direct. Strong and uniform.

3. Using whole room and dividing into two coops.


Poured concrete Tuesday.

Hoping to start build on Monday.

Thanks folks.

 

[Fillymj]

That's such a nice place for the chicks, Its very spacious. how many are you planning to have, what breed? and do you still plan to have cows?

I sold all the cattle 5 years ago. Just got to be to much for me.

Have a mix of Australorp, Golden Buff, Barred Rock, White Rock, Welsummer, Golden Laced Wykandotte, Austra White, and Barnevelder from Meyers.

Also purchased 12 Barred Hollands from Suzanne Holland in Louisiana. Holland are on endangered list so hoping to help this breed.

So my coop will be full

 

[Fillymj]

I'm further south than you, temps have gone down to zero here and many farmers here have lost chickens to freezing weather. I hear people say all the time that chickens don't need heat, but I know I couldn't bear it if one of mine died because the food in their crop froze, or got frostbite. This seems to be a very controversial subject on this website, so I just usually keep my mouth shut. (Not tonight, obviously. Lol) I use an oil filled radiating heater in my coop. When temps drop below freezing, its just enough to keep it about 35 in the coop. If a power outage should occur, they are still adjusted to the cold. Also, mice can still get in your coop with half inch hardware cloth. I'd recommend the quarter inch hardware cloth so you don't have to deal with mouse problems.

I'm further south than you, temps have gone down to zero here and many farmers here have lost chickens to freezing weather. I hear people say all the time that chickens don't need heat, but I know I couldn't bear it if one of mine died because the food in their crop froze, or got frostbite. This seems to be a very controversial subject on this website, so I just usually keep my mouth shut. (Not tonight, obviously. Lol) I use an oil filled radiating heater in my coop. When temps drop below freezing, its just enough to keep it about 35 in the coop. If a power outage should occur, they are still adjusted to the cold. Also, mice can still get in your coop with half inch hardware cloth. I'd recommend the quarter inch hardware cloth so you don't have to deal with mouse problems.

Have to say I agree with you about heat. Installing long tube heaters that have adjustable temperature gauge. Don’t want any frostbite either and want to be comfortable working in coop. I don’t get it either as to why one would not want their chickens comfortable.

Not worried at all about fire. Have qualified electricians doing all electrical install. Heaters will not be hung near anything combustible.

Outages are so rare that it probably wouldn’t happen but if it does have generators.

When we get those weeks of -20’s and -30’s the chickens are going into the horse barn that is heated into the 50’s. That is brutal weather and want all creatures together so I can take care of them safely.

Did purchase 1/4 hardware cloth for the coop.

Ready to start building will keep you posted. Thanks for suggestions.

 

[Fillymj]

I would personally look more at were your located for winter and summer comfort for your birds. Some individuals build large coops for roosting and than have to try and keep them heated for the winter. I have a 4ft by 4ft by 6ft tall coop witch in the winter holds up to 5 chickens at roost and even a duck or two may wonder in at night with a cat. They snuggle up next to each other and roost just fine on a 2x6 were they can lay right down on. I only need to have a heat lamp on when temps drop to freezing at night. The smaller coop holds there heat and they do just fine through northern wisconsin winters. Now although there coop is small there run were food and water is measures 4ft by 8ft and during the day the door is open to free range outside. They need there space during the day! If you have a dog or two around the majority of preditors are going to stay back and a couple of tom cats raised from kittens around the birds will take care of mice, weasels etc. I live in a heavily wooded parcel with ducks chickens ect. and have no issues with having my dogs and cats around. So basic chicken fence properly installed with a door would be just fine with with a little help from some pets.

Thanks for the input Mag7mm.

Making my coop into two coops. Both will still be large sized. Will have to see how heat goes in the winter. Installing one long tube heater in each coop. Should be enough but if not will add more.

Coyotes are a huge issue for us. Haven’t had a cat in 12 years or so. Coyotes kept killing them so stopped adopting cats.

We have all the “normal” chicken predators. Raccoon, weasel, mink, skunk, possum, etc. My dogs are worthless for hunting so need to make sure my coop/run is completely predator proof.

Putting cameras in coop and runs with motion lights. Will keep the 22 loaded and ready if I need it.

 

[Kat2141]

congrats on setting up your new coop. We have ours in a refurbished 10x10 horse stall that was no longer used. From my experience, I would guess that no matter how much time and effort you put into design, you will change it more than once after they get in there. I started out with 6 and now after some dying and some hatching have 9 (had more but some have gone elsewhere).

Anyway, after dealing with a couple that had sore legs for some reason or another, I have put in a bunch of ramps. I have watched them and they ALL prefer to use the ramps as they become adults. The younger ones don't mind flying down from the higher spots but as they get older/larger (by older, I mean even just a 8-9 months old), they use the ramps more and more. Many will use the ramp just until it is only 2-3 feet to the floor (I have a deep bed of shavings on the floor) and then jump, others will walk all of the way down.

Another thing I found is that extra roost space is a really good idea. You may be thinking that you are only going to have a certain number of birds, but chicken math may work against that. Like I said, I started with 6... two of them decided they wanted to be broody so I caved in and bought a dozen fertile eggs. Eleven of them hatched! I lost a couple of the original ones to foxes when they were free ranging and gave away most of the chicks. The following year, one of those went broody, I gave her 3 eggs... all 3 ended up being girls so they have stayed here. Anyway, that's how it seems to work for many of us. For a while I needed LOTS of roost space. Even now, they like to spread out.

 

[aart]

Using whole room and dividing into two coops.

Cool!
Will you also have separate areas for storage of feed and supplies?
And one or two other areas for brooding chicks and/or isolation hospital pens?

Heat is fine, as long as it's safe, but don't restrict ventilation to 'hold heat'.