Bully or Normal Behavior?

[rosemarythyme]

Here are some pictures. You can see the additional feed stations- one for calcium, one for grit and the rest are for feed.

I was thinking I would actually start separating her when I first feed to let everyone else feed and then bring her back after 10 min or so.

Your layout is pretty good for the amount of space you're working with.

Might not hurt to try that idea of separating them during the initial morning feeding. I happen to have a run that's split in the middle, with a gate, so if a bird/some birds are guarding or chasing others too much around the feed bowls, I put them on side of the run and shut the gate, do my morning chores in there, and then open the gate back up when I leave.

 

[Lizzy733]

I wouldn't say drawing blood constantly is normal. Sounds like she's a bit of a hellion.

To me, the run sounds a bit small for 10 birds, but I always go overkill in that area and overprovide where I can. My girls use all of their 5x6m run regardless of their numbers and at max, that's been 6.

Wyandottes are heavy girls - maybe try adding some roosts at height your lighter breeds can flee to where she can't follow.

Also, yes to separation. Unless you can be there constantly for a few days to play 'roo' and discipline her for acting out, separation is the best tool you have to curb her behaviour.

When I do injured\ill(not contagious) isolation in the run, I set up a small 4'x2' pen with shelter, food and water. I've not had many bully problems in my flock that weren't solvable with a stern 'talking' to.

Interested to know if she bullies at bedtime? This has been the worst of it for me when integrating new birds. - bullies tend to kick them off the perches and force them onto the floor - which is where the extra perch space comes in handy.

I made the mistake of having two bars within poking distance of each other, which meant they could reach the noobs pretty easily to butt them off, so I usually spend an extra week refereeing bed time once run integration is complete.

 

[dct10]

according to the formula, 10 birds require 100 square feet in the coop if they spend alot of time in there. If they are just inside at night, it is fine. My question is when does the worst of it occur? In the coop or outside too? We have one hen who is a bit more nasty than the others. We put a dim nightlight inside the coop so it's pretty dark at night. That stopped alot of the issues. Also, if your perches are all on the same level, this can actually cause hierarchy problems. The dominant bird(s) feel they should be higher than the lower birds. If you make a 2nd higher perch available, that too might help. Sounds like you have a problem bird. You might also benefit from a time-out cage for when she's being a jerk. They don't like being separated and it might send a message to her.

 

[MaggieRose2001]

Very cute setup! I started with 1 waterer and 1 feeder, with small cups for grit and oyster/egg shell. I added an extra of each when I got my next 3 pullets, but I think the key is to have them out of the line of sight. If you look in the first picture my second waterer is on the side of the coop(pvc pipe) all undercover The small black container on the fencing is used for their fermented feed or mash. I will say that only 1 other chicken gets to eat with the queen "B" my brahma, but when she's done the others get their mash too. I'd try making a few minor changes and if that doesn't work I'd lock the bully up for a few days in a dog crate in the run and see if that changes her tune.

Thanks for the reply and pictures. I love your coop too! If I do need to separate Dottie, do I need to do it in the run or can I put her somewhere else? I have their chicken tractor that I used this summer to let them “free range” on grass. It’s not being used now - so I could put her in that.

 

[MaggieRose2001]

according to the formula, 10 birds require 100 square feet in the coop if they spend alot of time in there. If they are just inside at night, it is fine. My question is when does the worst of it occur? In the coop or outside too? We have one hen who is a bit more nasty than the others. We put a dim nightlight inside the coop so it's pretty dark at night. That stopped alot of the issues. Also, if your perches are all on the same level, this can actually cause hierarchy problems. The dominant bird(s) feel they should be higher than the lower birds. If you make a 2nd higher perch available, that too might help. Sounds like you have a problem bird. You might also benefit from a time-out cage for when she's being a jerk. They don't like being separated and it might send a message

I wouldn't say drawing blood constantly is normal. Sounds like she's a bit of a hellion.

To me, the run sounds a bit small for 10 birds, but I always go overkill in that area and overprovide where I can. My girls use all of their 5x6m run regardless of their numbers and at max, that's been 6.

Wyandottes are heavy girls - maybe try adding some roosts at height your lighter breeds can flee to where she can't follow.

Also, yes to separation. Unless you can be there constantly for a few days to play 'roo' and discipline her for acting out, separation is the best tool you have to curb her behaviour.

When I do injured\ill(not contagious) isolation in the run, I set up a small 4'x2' pen with shelter, food and water. I've not had many bully problems in my flock that weren't solvable with a stern 'talking' to.

Interested to know if she bullies at bedtime? This has been the worst of it for me when integrating new birds. - bullies tend to kick them off the perches and force them onto the floor - which is where the extra perch space comes in handy.

I made the mistake of having two bars within poking distance of each other, which meant they could reach the noobs pretty easily to butt them off, so I usually spend an extra week refereeing bed time once run integration is complete.

according to the formula, 10 birds require 100 square feet in the coop if they spend alot of time in there. If they are just inside at night, it is fine. My question is when does the worst of it occur? In the coop or outside too? We have one hen who is a bit more nasty than the others. We put a dim nightlight inside the coop so it's pretty dark at night. That stopped alot of the issues. Also, if your perches are all on the same level, this can actually cause hierarchy problems. The dominant bird(s) feel they should be higher than the lower birds. If you make a 2nd higher perch available, that too might help. Sounds like you have a problem bird. You might also benefit from a time-out cage for when she's being a jerk. They don't like being separated and it might send a message to her.

Thanks for the advice. I will try the multiple roosts. I actually have a Polish that I always find out in the run by herself at night when I go to shut their door. I just figured it was because she is so clueless. But maybe she is being forced off. Maybe that will help.

 

[Lizzy733]

Thanks for the advice. I will try the multiple roosts. I actually have a Polish that I always find out in the run by herself at night when I go to shut their door. I just figured it was because she is so clueless. But maybe she is being forced off. Maybe that will help.

Does her crest obstruct her vision? - I know my Silkie took some training to be able to use our raised coop. I had to lead her up and get her onto the perches for about a week straight before she finally figured it out.

 

[MaggieRose2001]

Your layout is pretty good for the amount of space you're working with.

Might not hurt to try that idea of separating them during the initial morning feeding. I happen to have a run that's split in the middle, with a gate, so if a bird/some birds are guarding or chasing others too much around the feed bowls, I put them on side of the run and shut the gate, do my morning chores in there, and then open the gate back up when I leave.

Does her crest obstruct her vision? - I know my Silkie took some training to be able to use our raised coop. I had to lead her up and get her onto the perches for about a week straight before she finally figured it out.

I don’t think so - she started out on the roost for the first couple weeks when we moved them from the brooder to the coop. Then all of a sudden I started finding her out in the run every night on a stump. So I put a stump in the coop - still outside in the run. So… my nightly routine is picking her up and putting her in on the roost. Ce la vie.

 

[Auntiejessi3]

Thanks for the reply and pictures. I love your coop too! If I do need to separate Dottie, do I need to do it in the run or can I put her somewhere else? I have their chicken tractor that I used this summer to let them “free range” on grass. It’s not being used now - so I could put her in that.

Thank you! You could put her in the tractor for a couple days, it would knock her off her pedestal, and give the others a moment to make new bonds. Maybe rearrange the pecking order a bit.

 

[dct10]

Thanks for the advice. I will try the multiple roosts. I actually have a Polish that I always find out in the run by herself at night when I go to shut their door. I just figured it was because she is so clueless. But maybe she is being forced off. Maybe that will help.

yeah...that's sad. We had a beautiful White Crested black polish who the hens picked every feather from his head in one afternoon. I found him sitting out in the dark when everyone had gone in at dusk. He was literally bald like Kojak. We had to move him to the laundry room for months to grow his feathers back. Yes, he crowed every morning when the sun came up. Tried to reintroduce them and it began all over again. Unfortunately, we had to rehome him on a farm and he's doing much better.

 

[Auntiejessi3]

How are things coming along?