California - Northern

[tommysgirl]

This is a pet only home. This is my first flock. I'm worried about mixing the older girls with my chicks when they no longer need to be under the light. I'm not sure how to mix them without having problems.

Hi Dianna! I have a bit of advice for you that you can take or leave but it is what I have learned/figured out over the last two years.

For this situation:

If you have the ability to build or buy a second simple tractor type coop it will make this and your whole chicken keeping life easier. It will make it so that you can keep birds separated for whatever reason including illness, brooding, quarantine and in this case integration.

I learned on BYC that integeration is easier if you do it when the younger birds are about 6 months old but I have done it sooner (9-10 weeks or so) and successfully by following these steps.
*Making sure both groups can see each other but not get to each other for several days
*Ranging them all together in the wide open for several days
*slipping the chicks into the coop after dark on Integration Day
* Throwing out scratch and providing extra feeding/watering stations when you let them all out of the coop...I did this for months. This makes it so that potential bullies will be more interested in the scratch than being mean. And it makes it so that the little can get to food and water when they need to
*Monitor them...chasing and pecking is normal but if they draw blood separate and try again in a few weeks. If you only have 1 bully separate her for a few days this reworks the pecking order and often makes her stop
*Make sure the chicks have someplace and enough space to run to to get away.

ETA wanted to make sure you knew I meant that the smaller coop should be a second coop. Your primary coop should be as big as you can make it.

 

[liz9910]

Quote:
This is great advice!

 

[Happy Chooks]

This is a pet only home. This is my first flock. I'm worried about mixing the older girls with my chicks when they no longer need to be under the light. I'm not sure how to mix them without having problems.

Tommysgirl gave great advise on integrating. The older birds would need to be in a coop by themselves until your chicks are old enough to be integrated in with them.

 

[chiqita]

Don't they make those "Eggies" things you can cook them in?

I dont think they are 2 hrs in water waterproof.

Plus it is cool to crack an egg shell and slip out a perfectly poached egg!

 

[PetRock]

Hi Dianna! I have a bit of advice for you that you can take or leave but it is what I have learned/figured out over the last two years.

For this situation:

If you have the ability to build or buy a simple tractor type coop it will make this and your whole chicken keeping life easier. It will make it so that you can keep birds separated for whatever reason including illness, brooding, quarantine and in this case integration.

I learned on BYC that integeration is easier if you do it when the younger birds are about 6 months old but I have done it sooner (9-10 weeks or so) and successfully by following these steps.
*Making sure both groups can see each other but not get to each other for several days
*Ranging them all together in the wide open for several days
*slipping the chicks into the coop after dark on Integration Day
* Throwing out scratch and providing extra feeding/watering stations when you let them all out of the coop...I did this for months. This makes it so that potential bullies will be more interested in the scratch than being mean. And it makes it so that the little can get to food and water when they need to
*Monitor them...chasing and pecking is normal but if they draw blood separate and try again in a few weeks. If you only have 1 bully separate her for a few days this reworks the pecking order and often makes her stop
*Make sure the chicks have someplace and enough space to run to to get away.

Good advice! I usually wait until the younger birds are 12-15 weeks old. I already have multiple water and feed stations so that's just a given around here. Having a place where the young ones can go that the bigger ones can't get them is good. I've taken cinder blocks and made a temporary area inside the run with a board on top and at least 2 openings between the blocks that are only big enough for the young ones to get through. You will love having Wellies! The 3 that I have are very docile and not aggressive to the other birds even when they are younger. My more aggressive birds have been my barred rocks, silver laced wyandottes, and speckled sussex.

 

[CackleJoy]

Hi Dianna! I have a bit of advice for you that you can take or leave but it is what I have learned/figured out over the last two years.

For this situation:

If you have the ability to build or buy a simple tractor type coop it will make this and your whole chicken keeping life easier. It will make it so that you can keep birds separated for whatever reason including illness, brooding, quarantine and in this case integration.

I learned on BYC that integeration is easier if you do it when the younger birds are about 6 months old but I have done it sooner (9-10 weeks or so) and successfully by following these steps.
*Making sure both groups can see each other but not get to each other for several days
*Ranging them all together in the wide open for several days
*slipping the chicks into the coop after dark on Integration Day
* Throwing out scratch and providing extra feeding/watering stations when you let them all out of the coop...I did this for months. This makes it so that potential bullies will be more interested in the scratch than being mean. And it makes it so that the little can get to food and water when they need to
*Monitor them...chasing and pecking is normal but if they draw blood separate and try again in a few weeks. If you only have 1 bully separate her for a few days this reworks the pecking order and often makes her stop
*Make sure the chicks have someplace and enough space to run to to get away.

This is excellent advice! Our main layer house is quite large and I use a small rabbit cage for the newbies. I place them in it every night and they free range during the day with the big hens. I'll do this about a week and we have very few problems. For a while after the little ones are loose, I am still diligent about not allowing them to be all shut up together for long. This means early rising to open the door but it's worth it!

Also, I've never done this exact thing but I've heard that hanging a red cabbage is very entertaining and will take the focus off of new chickens. I usually just provide lots of treats during integration to keep everyone busy.

 

[CackleJoy]

This is excellent advice! Our main layer house is quite large and I use a small rabbit cage for the newbies. I place them in it every night and they free range during the day with the big hens. I'll do this about a week and we have very few problems. For a while after the little ones are loose, I am still diligent about not allowing them to be all shut up together for long. This means early rising to open the door but it's worth it!

Also, I've never done this exact thing but I've heard that hanging a red cabbage is very entertaining and will take the focus off of new chickens. I usually just provide lots of treats during integration to keep everyone busy.

Where is the edit button? I should say that the rabbit cage goes on the floor of the big hen house so at night they are all together.

 

[ronott1]

Have you heard about this place in Redding?

http://www.awesomearaucana.com/

 

[Audio51]

Quote:
Agreed on all counts! I would only add that if you can arrange it so the broody hen is also the top hen...it can help a ton. Even though they were all jockeying for position while she was sitting on the eggs, no one dared challenge my broody when she brought out her chicks...

 

[liz9910]

I just talked to someone who lives in Denair on E. Zeering, does anyone know the ordinances for that area? She's right on the border of Turlock/Denair.