Calling All Rabbit Nutters

I did not because my near 100 temps are usually accompanied by 90%+ humidity. Adding more moisture to the air doesn't help at that point. I HAVE, however, run cool water over the roof several feet above the tops of the cages to temporarily address some of the radiant heat issues. (our ground water is pretty consistently in the high 50s). But simply spraying it as a fine mist onto the roof didn't help much and significantly increased the water bill.

If you have dry air, otoh, it should be much more effective.
Nope. Deep South. Humidity is a problem. I was hoping cooler mist might at least cool down the surrounding air temperature in the shaded areas.
 
Nope. Deep South. Humidity is a problem. I was hoping cooler mist might at least cool down the surrounding air temperature in the shaded areas.
I had hoped otherwise. When I was in Central TX, we had times that were quite dry - but Galveston always felt like trying to breath in a sauna.
 
Well actually moving them outside would help Mom’s allergy problem. It would be a big project to make it predator proof though.
I don’t know if that would solve the hair loss problem and could even make it worse if they get mites. LikeI said I really don’t see any sign of mites but Can they be practically invisible and the skin still look healthy?
Would a drop of sheep drench ivermectin be an acceptable preventative / cure for parasites?

And another thing I was wondering is when I try to put them together in a neutral zone like a big crate and they start fighting. I immediately separate them again. Should I just let them fight it out cause it seems like maybe they want to be together but they need to have a fight first.? to figure out who is the strongest? Kind of like Ducks do. And then they get over it. I don’t know if that sounds stupid, but I was just thinking
 
Well actually moving them outside would help Mom’s allergy problem. It would be a big project to make it predator proof though.
I don’t know if that would solve the hair loss problem and could even make it worse if they get mites. LikeI said I really don’t see any sign of mites but Can they be practically invisible and the skin still look healthy?
Would a drop of sheep drench ivermectin be an acceptable preventative / cure for parasites?
Sadly, outside was a popular place for roof rats (palm rats, commonly) to hang out, and they can climb almost as well as a gecko. They do leave droppings everywhere, the chew holes thru plywood to get at food, they can get thru relatively small holes (about 1/2" square) when they are young to steal food from your rabbits, and yes, they will transfer mites to your rabbits.

Rabbits (mostly), won't look the worse for it - or mine didn't. My rats tended to transfer ear mites to my rabbits - you'd notice a bit of head shaking, and then scratching at the ears, and a bit of build up in the inner ear. A few squirts of Permethrin 10 would clear it up for a couple months. But no bare skin spots like the pictures above.

Can't offer more than that, I don't think. My rabbits are still outside, but now moved into the green house.
 
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A big crate is nowhere near enough room.
Well, yeah, for permanent habitation of course just way too small but just to test if they will get along for a second, I read you’re supposed to use a small neutral area. So that if they start fighting you can catch them.
A rabbit rescue organization recommended that. Do you think I should put them down on the floor together in a bigger neutral space but they go so fast if they are fighting how can I catch them to stop it? And if I don’t stop it right away, I think I should at some point if they don’t stop fighting, especially if I see blood.?
 
Do you think I should put them down on the floor together in a bigger neutral space but they go so fast if they are fighting how can I catch them to stop it? And if I don’t stop it right away, I think I should at some point if they don’t stop fighting, especially if I see blood.?
A much bigger area with obstacles and hiding places.

As long as you interfere, they will never get their differences settled.

If capture is necessary a big net can be very handy.
 
A much bigger area with obstacles and hiding places.

As long as you interfere, they will never get their differences settled.

If capture is necessary a big net can be very handy.
OK, I have a plan now I can section off 1/4 of my duck hospital room space , the room is about 200 ft.² so I just ordered 48 ft.² of EVA exercise mat floor padding and a 6 x 8 indoor outdoor carpet rug, to cover the concrete floor.
I already have a fishing net but the handle isn’t very long. Maybe I can attach it to a pole. I can try putting both bunnies down there after it’s all set up and see what happens. Oh I hope I hope I hope they get along.
 
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Oh I hope I hope I hope they get along.
You past experiences indicate that you should see some fighting. They may both be dominants and may not want to share their area with another of the same sex. They should not try to kill each other but do need to settle who is boss. If the area is big enough they may tolerate each other once they know each other.
 

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