Chicken Coop stability issues

[chemew]

Thanks to everyone for the quick replies!

Most of the studs are about 1' 4" on center. The wobble increased when the roof was added although you do have to push to make it happen. I'm not talking about a gentle push or a strong shove but a firm push. I've attached pictures to help give an idea of what it looks like. The wobble is only about 1" or 2" - as best as I can measure.

I've been told adding siding will fix it but I want to make sure before I finish the coop and then it falls down with the first strong winds or snow storm.

 

[Hawkeye95]

I'm at the same point you are at- but without the roof. My frame doesn't wobble much when I tied the 4 walls to each other. I suppose it will move a bit, but its more like a wiggle than actually shifting. I used 4inch screws to put the walls down into the base... I don't know what to tell you, other than I'd go back and put in more screws. I also didn't use nails on my framing- I used screws- maybe that is the difference? I haven't used one nail this entire time. ???

 

[Hawkeye95]

BTW- love your design! I think that is going to be an amazing coop!!

 

[smokinjay]

once siding and decking it will be a Brick Crap house for sure. Looks like it would meet code anywhere!

 

[chickmama1662]

Your siding will help firm everything up. Make sure you tie all your walls together with a cap board along the top. You'll be good to go.

 

[Ole rooster]

My my, put on the siding and that will be stiff enough Katrina couldn't move it. That looks good.

 

[stubbornhill]

Your coop is looking great and with the siding on, will be strong and sound. Great job!

 

[ECBW]

Never mind bracing. The siding is the bracing. Just plumb and square it, then side it and your are done.

 

[Toothless Willie]

The most probable reason for your coop wobbling is inproper framing methods. The standard wall framing method includes a single bottom plate with what are known as Jacks in the corners, studs at 12,16, or 24"OC, and a double plate which laps at the corners on the top. A jack consists of 3 studs which are gang nailed into a "U" shape. In most cases carpenters use a jack at one end and a single stud at the other. As the walls are stood, the single stud at one end is gang nailed to the "jack post" at the end of the next intersection. Jack posts are missing at the corners of both pictures shown above. The reason for the double top plate is so that the top layer can overlap the plate under, thereby tying the entire wall at the top continuously. A double top plate also distributes load more efficiently than a single plate.

In a chicken coop one can trim a little on the details. The outer membrane, i.e. plywood, will carry what the framing may have missed. Hopefully the outer membrane will extend from the base all the way to the roof. You definately need some CLB, (continuous lateral bracing) from end wall to end wall connecting the roof framing together. Theese would run mid-span of your roof structure and attach to each of the verticals in your roof diaphram. This resists wind forces which will try to domino the roof.

Lastly, if you do not intend to use a solid roof membrane such as plywood you should install purlins on top of, or between each set of rafters.

Hope that is somewhat understandable

 

[angry gary]

the siding will secure everything just fine. the side to side wobble will be non existent due the the siding "squaring" everything up. i understand toothless willies explanation but this is a chicken house not my personal home.

AG