Chicken (Poultry) Addiction Anonymous *Chat Thread*

[Muggsmagee]

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I love enabling husbands! That is a good idea to use the turtle as a duck pond...I have one of those taking up space in the garage.

 

[Muggsmagee]

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They are getting BIG! The Lav is beautiful! The EE's are gorgeous! Look at all the Strawberry Blondes! Oooh la la! Is the black one from me, too? I don't remember if it is a Black EE or an Olive egger. If it is mine and a black EE, the momma is a Langshan. If it is an OE, I want that baby back!

ETA: Can you tell how excited I am to see pics, I seem to "speak" in fragmented sentences. Love the update! Thanks Linda!

 

[Wynette]

Beautiful birds, all!

I see the chicken math going on....LOVE IT!!

 

[gryeyes]

The black chick is one of yours, yes. I don't think it's an EE, though. I could be wrong. I love that pure white one, too! They are all very hearty chicks. There are a couple of black ones, and they have been the bravest of the brave in the group.

And yes, I thinkthere are four "strawberry blondes" in the batch, although one appears to be blond, not blonde - see the comb?

 

[daisychick]

Welcome to madgabmomma and DinosRBirds!!

 

[Muggsmagee]

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I forgot you received a White one. This is like detective work...if it has clean legs it is a pure White Orpington from Hinkjc lines! If it has feathered legs (not likely) it is 1/2 Orpington, 1/2 Cochin. These assorted hatches are so much fun to piece together!

 

[gryeyes]

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Wynette!

Here's a recent photo of one of the two splash JG roos hatched from your eggs.

 

[Muggsmagee]

I just read a post that we're not supposed to feed medicated starter to our ducks. My bag of medicated feed says it is for poultry...not chicken specific. Should I switch the ducklings to something else? I'm now worried.

 

[daisychick]

Meagan I have heard that too about medicated feed. Mine is non-medicated but I think maybe Allen's was medicated when he fed his geese??? Not sure. I found this on a post once it is from Holderreads and I liked it. I mix non-medicated chick starter and turkey starter half and half. I am not sure why medicated is not suggested?

A Dozen Suggestions for Starting Your Ducklings and Goslings
l. Expect your hatchlings to arrive 12-36 hours after shipment. Notify your post office of the expected shipment of day-olds, and ask to be called upon their arrival. It's advisable to pick up your birds at the post office.
2. Upon the birds' arrival, be sure to keep them warm until they are placed in the brooding area. Open the shipping box only in a warm environment. Check the underside of the box lid for order content information.
3. As you take the birds from the box and place them in the pre-warmed brooding area, immediately dip each of their bills in the waterer to make sure that they drink promptly. Initially give lukewarm water with 1 tsp. honey or corn syrup per quart and chopped greens (described in #6). Do not give feed for as least an hour after giving birds water and greens. Thereafter, we recommend adding a water-soluble vitamin mix formulated for baby poultry to the water for the first 5 to 7 days. Because waterfowl drink more than twice as much water as chickens, use vitamin mixes at 1/2 the recommended rate for baby chicks. Never use REN-O SAL on ducks and geese.
4. ONLY use waterers that the birds can drink from easily BUT WHICH THEY CANNOT GET INTO AND GET SOAKED!
5. Supply the birds with fresh feed that has been formulated specifically for young poultry. In the order of preference, we recommend starting hatchlings on one of these feeds: duck starter or broiler starter (we highly recommend Purina's Flock Raiser ration when a duck/goose starter is unavailable). By themselves, chick starter is low in niacin, and turkey and gamebird starters are excessively high in protein (forcing young waterfowl to grow too fast). However, using a mix of 1 part chick starter and 1 part turkey of gamebird starter normally makes a good ration for baby waterfowl. Use only fresh feed and NEVER give laying rations to young waterfowl. In our experience, so-called "all purpose" or "triple duty" feeds normally are unsatisfactory if used as the sole ration for waterfowl during the first 8 weeks. We highly recommend the additional information on feeding and nutrition covered in Storey's Guide to Raising Ducks, The Book of Geese and Wing Disorders in Waterfowl.
6. Green feed (lettuce, spinach, tender young grass, etc.) chopped to 1/4-inch lengths and sprinkled in the water and on the feed helps get goslings as well as ducklings to eat quickly, and off to a fast start.
7. The correct brooding temperature is 90-92o F the first 3 days and 85-90o F for days 4 to7. Thereafter, drop the brooding temperature approximately 5o F per week. Birds must always be able to get away from the heat source to avoid the damaging effects of overheating.
8. Allow a minimum of 1/2 square foot of floor space for each duckling the first week, 1 square foot the second week, and 2 square feet to 4 weeks of age. Double these figures for goslings.
9. Do not start waterfowl on smooth floors (such as newspaper) which can cause spraddled legs. Wire mesh floor is ideal. If bedding is used, cover it with burlap or coarse cloth for the first day to prevent the birds from eating the litter while they learn what feed is.
10. Make sure the brooding area is draft-free and provides protection from predators, including rats, cats and dogs.
11. After arriving at their new home, your baby waterfowl need warmth, drinking water, fresh food and rest. Check on them regularly to make sure they are comfortable, but avoid handling them the first several days.
12. And most of all, enjoy your new charges. Ducklings and goslings are exceptionally hardy and fast growing, and watching their adolescent antics is entertaining. Happy duck and goose raising!

 

[Muggsmagee]

That post is exactly what I needed. Thank you Chandra! I'll go to TSC tonight and pick up some Flock Raiser for the ducks. Umm...I'll make that two bags with all of the ducks and geese I'll be hatching soon.