Composite decking ramp - complete failure so far, need advice

[Scifisarah]

So I already invested $11 in this nice composite deck board for the ramp and want to make it work. The last one we had was wood with rungs nailed on that ended up rotting and falling apart after 3-4 years. It also got covered with poop and could not be cleaned easily. I thought the "wood grain" finish on the composite decking would be enough traction but I was dead wrong. Ten of my dozen chickens can make it back into the coop with lots of flapping, squawking and comic cackling but two of them can't even get inside - my frizzle rooster whose wings are useless, and my extremely fat barred bantam cochin. Do you think putting this tread tape across will make it workable for them: http://www.amazon.com/3M-7647NA-Saf...ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1337737790&sr=1-1 It is a 6 foot long board and I would say the door is about 3 feet off the ground. I also have silkie chickens on the way, so they need to be able to use it as well and I know their wings aren't going to be very helpful.

 

[bj taylor]

i bet it will work well.

 

[teesquare]

The tread tape may work - if the surface is smooth enough for it to bond to it.

Here is another option for you: Have someone with a sliding compound miter saw or radial arm saw cut grooves across the width of the board that are approx. 1/8'' deep or less and every 2-3 inches apart, for the length of the board. This should create a permanent solution for traction.
T

 

[fried green eggs]

The tread tape may work - if the surface is smooth enough for it to bond to it.

Here is another option for you: Have someone with a sliding compound miter saw or radial arm saw cut grooves across the width of the board that are approx. 1/8'' deep or less and every 2-3 inches apart, for the length of the board. This should create a permanent solution for traction.
T

Couldn't this be done with a regular circular saw if you changed the depth of the cut on the blade guard?

 

[Ted n Ms]

yes

 

[teesquare]

Quote: Sure...just easier if you you have a stationary saw of the the types listed, and - a bit safer

 

[Scifisarah]

Of those saws, we only have a circular saw but maybe we will try that. The composite decking is the hollow type, but I think it is still thick enough to handle a 1/8 groove without going all the way through to the center. I'll mark it for my husband to saw when he gets home tonight.

 

[chfite]

I don't use treads or rungs, but my ramps are 8 feet long rising 2 feet. Not so steep as yours.

Chris

 

[teesquare]

Of those saws, we only have a circular saw but maybe we will try that. The composite decking is the hollow type, but I think it is still thick enough to handle a 1/8 groove without going all the way through to the center. I'll mark it for my husband to saw when he gets home tonight.

Great!

If he us uncomfortable with doing it that way - look for a cabinet shop, or high school wood shop - and ask them to do it for you. Circular saws in this application - are a little trickier oto use - safely.
That was why I recommended the sliding compound miter or radial arm saw.
Please let me know if I can be of any help-
T

 

[Mavrik]

You could also make your own non-skid. Paint the plank, sprinkle course clean(washed) sand, then paint over the sand to hold it in place. Home Depot also sells a deck renew kit that is basically the same (sand in the paint) with a texture roller. But it's sold 2 gallons at a time in the kit.