Converting Suncast Modernist shed to coop, progress pics

May 18, 2025
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Oregon
Hello, thanks to advice on this forum, I decided to convert a 6x5 resin shed rather than purchase a very expensive prefab coop (I was budgeting for the Eglu Pro - even with all the materials and extras, my shed coop was less than half the price!)

It has been very fun customizing it and planning for the chickens. Thank you to the members here who have shared their advice and examples. I’ve learned a lot from this forum.

These are our first chickens. We are planning for 3 hens. Getting a dozen hatching eggs from a local farmer next month (mix of Ayam Cemani, BCM, and Olive Eggers), fingers crossed that it works out in our favor.

Currently in process of adding ventilation. I will cover the 6” cut out with HW cloth and a vent insert. I am thinking of adding 3-4 more cut-outs. Each cut out is about 28 square inches of ventilation. The shed has pretty good ventilation on the opposite wall, where the doors are, and some ventilation on the gable sides (I used 1/4” HW cloth instead of the plexiglass for all the windows).

Thinking of adding a 6” cut-out to each side as well. Advice and feedback is welcome. We are in the PNW (moderate climate), in case that’s relevant.

You can see the roosting bar setup in my photo. The bar is 6’ long and about 31” off the ground. About 7” below it are horizontal supports for poop trays. Planning to do deep litter, so the roosting bar finished height will be 28-24” off the ground. Do you recommend making a ladder for the chickens to get up to it? Or perhaps I could use some pavers/blocks on the ground that they can use to jump up?

TODO: Add pop door (got the run chicken one), and get started on the 9x12 enclosed run. We are on a slope, so the run will be especially challenging to predator proof. My main concern is raccoons. IMG_4224.jpeg IMG_4238.jpeg
 
Ventilation sounds ok for now, might need to adjust as you go.

Since the shed has a finished floor and you're doing poop trays you won't be doing deep litter, so plan on scooping poop trays regularly and then pretty much any litter choice on the floor itself should work.

You shouldn't need steps or a ramp for the roost, the birds have plenty of space to fly up.

Also one tip for adding the pop door, do not place it at floor level. About 6-8" above floor is ideal to prevent birds from kicking litter out and potentially jamming up the auto door.
 
Ventilation sounds ok for now, might need to adjust as you go.

Since the shed has a finished floor and you're doing poop trays you won't be doing deep litter, so plan on scooping poop trays regularly and then pretty much any litter choice on the floor itself should work.

You shouldn't need steps or a ramp for the roost, the birds have plenty of space to fly up.

Also one tip for adding the pop door, do not place it at floor level. About 6-8" above floor is ideal to prevent birds from kicking litter out and potentially jamming up the auto door.
Thank you!

For some reason I thought I needed to do both trays and deep litter (how much are these birds pooping anyway? 😆)

Between the two, I prefer deep litter, so will remove the tray supports.

Currently devising a system where I can line the finished floor with jute fabric, hooking the corners to the bottom frame, as my husband wants a barrier between the plastic and compost that will be used for the veg garden. I might sew up a jute “tray” type of thing with grommets evenly spaced around.

This project has given my brain a lot of exercise.
 
For some reason I thought I needed to do both trays and deep litter (how much are these birds pooping anyway? 😆)
A lot. :) Even just 3 hens will generate more poop than you think, especially once they get past the tiny peep-peep phase.

If you ever change your mind on the poop trays or how you manage litter you can always add them in later. Coops are almost always an ongoing project.
 

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