Coop Design - Feedback Pls

Coralista

Chirping
Dec 16, 2020
39
98
66
Oregon
Hi. We are getting 8 chicks at the end of April. So it is time to design our Coop, get feedback. The goal is have a set design so I can get a material build list made and picked up and let us weekend warrior this coop over 6 weeks.

I'm in Oregon, Willamette Valley, it is wet, like wet-wet, so poop management, air flow, and moisture reduction of the coop are top of mind. When we had a coop previously we built it so the door was at waist level, and while that was okay, I want to be able to walk into our coop this time without having to hunch.

Below images represent a floor plan of width 6’ and length 8’. But as my husband so kindly pointed out after drawing this up is that if the coop is 6’ x 7’ we could better utilize plywood/OSB better for 6” eaves. So this plan may be reduced down to the 6’x7’ floor plan. I used the build tool on Tuff Shed to illustrate what we were thinking. But we fulling intend to build this ourselves. We also may bring the overall height down a foot, but this was my first go at drawing up something.

Windows - the drawing and images are placeholders, I need to go to the rebuilding center and habitat to see what windows are available and would work. I would like to have Windows on the East and North sides of the coop, and then long ventilation strip along the West side, in the 3D rendering this is shown as windows, but the plan is to make the eaves deeper and have this as ventilation.

Vents – on the North and South side of the coop, 12”x12”

Poop board – 24” deep, running the long length of the coop. If the coop goes to 6’x7’, the poop board would reduce down accordingly.

Nesting Boxes – I plan on 3, if folks thing we need 4 we can do that, as there is plenty of space. These would be tucked under the poop board. I don’t plan on having the nesting boxes jutting out of the coop, but just have a door with flashing/drip cap over the top.

Floor – I’m still debating if we put in vinyl flooring or paint black jack.

My exploded view is not to scale or anything, I was just trying to give a rough idea of the layout if you removed two of the walls and could look in.

What issues do you see with this, what am I missing, what else do I need to include?

Thanks!
 

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3KillerBs

Enabler
12 Years
Jul 10, 2009
15,422
43,018
1,196
North Carolina Sandhills
My Coop
My Coop

Coralista

Chirping
Dec 16, 2020
39
98
66
Oregon
Yes! The West side of the coop we want to do something like that along the top under the eaves, letting three ways of air to flow through, through the west side, then vents on the north and south. I don't know about the East side (because of the geography around us and tree location) as I want space for windows, and we may get tight for space. It is not uncommon for us to darn near horizontal rain in the spring and fall, and as most of the weather will come at us on the East side, I don't know about putting vents on that side. Having sliding windows will allow us to open up when weather allows though. Thank you for the idea!
 

Coralista

Chirping
Dec 16, 2020
39
98
66
Oregon
Hi. We are getting 8 chicks at the end of April. So it is time to design our Coop, get feedback. The goal is have a set design so I can get a material build list made and picked up and let us weekend warrior this coop over 6 weeks.

I'm in Oregon, Willamette Valley, it is wet, like wet-wet, so poop management, air flow, and moisture reduction of the coop are top of mind. When we had a coop previously we built it so the door was at waist level, and while that was okay, I want to be able to walk into our coop this time without having to hunch.

Below images represent a floor plan of width 6’ and length 8’. But as my husband so kindly pointed out after drawing this up is that if the coop is 6’ x 7’ we could better utilize plywood/OSB better for 6” eaves. So this plan may be reduced down to the 6’x7’ floor plan. I used the build tool on Tuff Shed to illustrate what we were thinking. But we fulling intend to build this ourselves. We also may bring the overall height down a foot, but this was my first go at drawing up something.

Windows - the drawing and images are placeholders, I need to go to the rebuilding center and habitat to see what windows are available and would work. I would like to have Windows on the East and North sides of the coop, and then long ventilation strip along the West side, in the 3D rendering this is shown as windows, but the plan is to make the eaves deeper and have this as ventilation.

Vents – on the North and South side of the coop, 12”x12”

Poop board – 24” deep, running the long length of the coop. If the coop goes to 6’x7’, the poop board would reduce down accordingly.

Nesting Boxes – I plan on 3, if folks thing we need 4 we can do that, as there is plenty of space. These would be tucked under the poop board. I don’t plan on having the nesting boxes jutting out of the coop, but just have a door with flashing/drip cap over the top.

Floor – I’m still debating if we put in vinyl flooring or paint black jack.

My exploded view is not to scale or anything, I was just trying to give a rough idea of the layout if you removed two of the walls and could look in.

What issues do you see with this, what am I missing, what else do I need to include?

Thanks!
Giving this a bump to see if there is any other feedback.
 

aart

Chicken Juggler!
Premium Feather Member
9 Years
Nov 27, 2012
103,667
154,549
1,867
SW Michigan
My Coop
My Coop
Below images represent a floor plan of width 6’ and length 8’. But as my husband so kindly pointed out after drawing this up is that if the coop is 6’ x 7’ we could better utilize plywood/OSB better for 6” eaves.
Buy the extra materials for a 12" over hang all around(including gable ends),
don't skimp on floor space.
Why not go 8x8?
Bigger overhangs allow for open soffits,
protected ventilation all year around no matter the weather.
Fly rafters on gable ends will protect gable vents.

Get some graph paper so you can sketch to scale, interior layout looks good tho.
 

U_Stormcrow

Free Ranging
Jun 7, 2020
6,929
23,184
676
North FL Panhandle Region / Wiregrass
In agreement with @aart. Also in wet-wet. We average 59" rainfall annually. Humidities often in the high 90s.

Go 8x8 - reduce cutting, board waste. Since you are weekend warrior-ing it, consider a shed-style, rather than gable roof, then do materials to ensure at least a 1' overhang in all directions. Use a 3 in 12 pitch, so the low side on an 8x8 shed is 2' lower than the high side. Most likely 6' back, 8' front, with the height of your rafters adding to that. Use the "scrap" for your poop boards, a shelf, or some other purpose.

Wood prices being what they are, save time and money with a metal roof on purlins. Big, open ventilation right under the roof line on the high and low sides. If you can buy 10' metal roof sheets (I prefer the 5v pattern, rather than they wavy roof metal for a host of reasons we can address later), great. That's about a 1' overhang everywhere. If you can't, buy the 12' sheets, extend the roof over the high side, and locate your door there. You will appreciate being able to open it in the rain while remaining mostly dry.

and orient the low side so it faces the prevailing winds in your wettest months, if you can. Will reduce the possibility of windblown rains.

Two nesting boxes is enough. Three allows for flock expansion, even 8x8 you won't need more than four boxes ever, even if you go up to 16 birds in there.

Skip the windows, use the savings to buy hardware cloth to cover the big open rafters and free ventilation created on high and low sides. Buy a door - like a storm door with a center window which can be slid open, or even one with a doggie door in the bottom panel. Exterior rated, reasonably light weight, huge time savings. Not proof against bears. Good for most other predators.
 

U_Stormcrow

Free Ranging
Jun 7, 2020
6,929
23,184
676
North FL Panhandle Region / Wiregrass
while I'm at it, are you considering an attached run? or given any thought to skipping the floor entirely, and going to a deep litter composting method inside the coop.

As you plan, give consideration to the footprint of the coop on your terrain. Optimally, you want water running away from it, so it (and your run) drain naturally. If its near your home, and runoff from the roof of the home and surrounding land slope will be directing water towards the coop and run, you will want to add some water control methods, like berms and swales, to help direct it away from the coop.
 

Coralista

Chirping
Dec 16, 2020
39
98
66
Oregon
I wanted to update everyone who has given wonderful advice on the coop status, where our plans are at, thinking versatility of the coop in the future, etc.

My husband has been living his best between job life and found some great finds at the Rebuild store including roofing, building wrap, smaller pieces of plywood, $5 windows, etc. In addition, a friend's father was retiring and selling his two work trucks. He had plywood in the bed to protect them that he gave to use which is the roof.

I'll be the first to admit this thing is overbuilt, but as my husband has been enjoying the building process so I'm leaving well enough alone.

We moved the door from the side of the coop to the front. The thought is 8-10 years down the line if we wanted we could convert to a potting house/garden storage.

The roof is 18" overhang in the front and 16" on the side, not sure on the back, but less. The plan is to add a gutter on the back to help direct water away. Run will be to the right of the coop if you are looking at the door, we will be covering that as well with polycarb corrugate. We know someone who purchased a bunch for outside seating of their restaurant, but only used half of it, so we are getting it for discount.

The full front and back of the building where the walls meet the roof line is ventilation, which will have hardware cloth over it to predator proof. I'm planing on applying Black Jack to the floor and having a poop board that runs the long way, along the back short wall. Still trying to decide on a chicken door. We'll need to dig a trench to run power accross the yard, maybe later this summer.

We upgraded the girls to a bigger brooder in the garage, so we have a bit more time, but as my husband starts his new job in a week, the pressure is on. I'll be on paint duty once the siding is up.
 

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