Diary & Notes ~ Air Cell Detatched SHIPPED Chicken Eggs for incubation and hatching

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FOUND IT..... NOTES from OTHER SITES!! I NEVER did this though, just part of my shipped eggs links! here is the paste from the original Post!


SITES oN AIR CELL DAMAGE...
1. AIR CELL INFO for Incubation http://www.squidoo.com/mailed-shipped-fertilised-chickens-eggs-fertilized-hatching-chicken-egg A normal air cell in a freshly laid egg are dime sized up to quarter sized in a week-old or older egg, and fixed at the fat end and just looks like a line when candled.
From rough shipping it is possible to see detached, loose or rolling air sacs as seen in the picture. For those eggs, you need to change your hatch plan. They have to sit 24 hours always pointy end down, to see if the aircells will reattach, about half of them will in my experience. Either way, leave them in the egg carton for all 21 days of the hatch. Stop turning early at Day 16 not 18. It is possible to hatch chicks from eggs with detached air sacs when the cells never stabilized even after 24 hours, but were left upright for hatch. Make sure any turning is gentle, and no flatter than 45 degrees, more vertical is better! Disrupted, shattered or ruptured air sacs are seen when instead of one bubble on the side of the egg, there are more than one. Handling must be very rough in these situations and I believe can be enough to kill the embryo in the first place. These should have the same treatment as the detached air sac eggs, but don't re-candle after 24 hours, these won't reattach. Just having the air bubbles rising to the top of the eggs at the fat end while hatching the eggs vertically in trays gives any chicks that do grow chance to pip into the air cell. Likelihood of a chick hatching is lower than intact displaced air cell eggs, but worth a try if the eggs show no sign of spoilage or leaking.
2. Suggestions for Management of Damaged and Mal-positioned Egg Air Cells https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/501034/suggestions-for-management-of-damaged-and-mal-positioned-egg-air-cells "These eggs should then be set into the incubator in a vertical position and not turned for 36-48 hours, after that turning by tilting side to side at a 45 degree angle helps to keep the air at the top. Otherwise leave well alone and dont remove for weighing. During the second week the chorio-allantoic membrane (generously supplied with blood vessels) grows out from the chick to line the complete inner surface, including the air cell. Think of it as inflating a balloon within an already inflated balloon. The air cell is now resealed and from 15 days can be treated normally though gentle handling is needed."
3. http://skeffling.hubpages.com/hub/Chicken-Incubators-and-getting-the-most-chicks-from-your-hatching-eggs "For rolling, detached or disrupted air cells (so cells no longer at fat end of the egg but like a spirit level bubble on the long side), you’ll need to change your hatch plan. They need to sit 24 hours always pointy end down, to see if the cells will reattach. Leave them in the egg carton for all 21 days of the hatch. Stop turning early at Day 16 not 18. I have hatched chicks from eggs with detached air sacs where the cells never stabilized even after 24 hours, but were left upright for hatch. Make sure any turning is gentle, and 45% or more vertical
 
I've read other places people saying turning isn't as important in the later stages when they can turn themselves?

now 4 pips

one is a busted air cell.
i have a webcam
In your browser, type 66.189.47.140
Click on Java Applet
UN = guest
PW = chix
 
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I've read other places people saying turning isn't as important in the later stages when they can turn themselves?

now 4 pips

one is a busted air cell.
i have a webcam
In your browser, type 66.189.47.140
Click on Java Applet
UN = guest
PW = chix
My son was in the hospital and I didnt turn from day 10-17! and had a 100 hatch! In the article hatching 101 it explains turning and there are sites that have clinical studies and the first 7 days are the most important.
 
LOCK THEM DOWN follow the timeline! WHY? Because for some reason some eggs candle different! Plus thats 3 full days from now..... can you get a pic of the size of cells better? ..... you dont have cold and hot spots do you?

I have actually KILLED chicks that I thought looked like blobs and no veining and smaller! Most of these chicks are VERY LIGHT in color, I honestly think candling really light colored chicks SHOWS DIFFERENT!! I threw two of my cochin eggs in the bator, and I thought they were blobs, GOOD THING I EGGTOPSIED because I would have killed 2 instead of 1... one goes in lockdown tonight or tomorrow!! SO DONT MAKE my mistakes assuming they arent growing right, the time frame is the same for everyone in the bator as long as your set up and running correctly. AND I am pretty sure you crossed your t's and dotted i's!! I will candle this cochin and ask DH to video it tonight to show you what I mean about candling!
Will have to check later on for cold & hot spots. It's a forced air Brinsea Eco with an auto turner. The only thing I can think of what separates the one normally develop chick from the other under-developed is that the 1 was placed into the incubator the same day it was hatched, The others were being cool-storaged in my un-insulated bathroom that was being used by us. I did have to take them out when anyone was showering b/c of the heat a/o humidity, That's only possible solution to slower-to-develop chicks. But will continue to candle pror to lockdown and of course gets pics when I get a moment tonight....

Thanks all for your advice!
 
Physical Chick Therapy for "Wobbles" the Frizzle = 3/4" wide tunnel, its working!



 
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