Do I need both incubator and hatcher?

ADuckOnQuack

Chirping
May 20, 2016
182
10
76
England
I plan on buying the OvaEasy 190 Brinsea Incubator, it has 3 trays and a hatcher at the bottom. For the first 21 days of incubating pheasant eggs the temp and humidity needs to be 37.5.c and 80%. And the last 3 days in the hatcher need to be 37.c and 50% humidity.
Because the hatcher and the incubator and together does it matter that the temp and humidity is consistently at 37.5 and 80%.... if I lower the humidity down when the hatcher is full, will it have much affect on the eggs still being incubated? Will I need to buy a incubator and hatcher seperatly? Or can I get away with success hatch percentage without altering the settings? Thanks!
 
I plan on buying the OvaEasy 190 Brinsea Incubator, it has 3 trays and a hatcher at the bottom. For the first 21 days of incubating pheasant eggs the temp and humidity needs to be 37.5.c and 80%. And the last 3 days in the hatcher need to be 37.c and 50% humidity.
Because the hatcher and the incubator and together does it matter that the temp and humidity is consistently at 37.5 and 80%.... if I lower the humidity down when the hatcher is full, will it have much affect on the eggs still being incubated? Will I need to buy a incubator and hatcher seperatly? Or can I get away with success hatch percentage without altering the settings? Thanks!
You should be fine as long as the eggs are scheduled to hatch at the same time. Only thing is you have the humidity levels reversed...should be around 50% for the 1st 21 days, then at lock down, humidity should be raised to 70 to 80%.
 
I've ad much better hatching leaving the eggs right in the turners and not using the hatch tray at all.I don't change the humidity either.If they develop and grow in the egg they should hatch fine with the same humidity.But remember the humidity goes up when they start to hatch as the chicks are drying off.
In N.H.,Tony.
 
50% is high around here, but it may work for you. I would suggest candling the eggs several times to monitor air cells and moisture loss. If the air cells aren't growing enough, then decrease the humidity.

And I "think" the main point of the hatching area is easier to clean up. You don't have to use it, but it's probably easier. (hatching chicks are messy!)
 
Making one yourself is by far cheaper if your handy.


Give me instructions and I might be able to bodge something up
1f602.png
 
Look at incubator designs and take little parts from every incubator. Make something up, I did came up with heating errors at the end but I ended up fixing mine and now its at 100 degrees all the time :D
can hatch 480 quail eggs and around 200 chicken eggs if i wanted it too.( Or if I can ever fill it
 
I hatched red goldens out last year in the brinsea octogon 20. Did the whole thing from start to finish. I had a 90% hatch rate this way. With this i wouldnt dream of adding another piece of equipment and more complication to the process.
 
I hatched red goldens out last year in the brinsea octogon 20. Did the whole thing from start to finish. I had a 90% hatch rate this way. With this i wouldnt dream of adding another piece of equipment and more complication to the process.


I have 2 Octagon 20s and highly agree, but if I wanted a cabinet, I would consider making one. I also have a Styrofoam one that I have used as a hatcher for staggered sets.
 
Last edited:

New posts New threads Active threads

Back
Top Bottom