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Do we need to cover the wood in the run?

Discussion in 'Coop & Run - Design, Construction, & Maintenance' started by hokankai, Sep 22, 2010.

  1. hokankai

    hokankai Chillin' With My Peeps

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    So we have been working on the run these past few days, but we started to mount the hardware cloth and then I realized the lumber we used wasn't pressure treated. Is this going to be a problem? we used PT corner posts...but the rest is untreated and not painted. Should we try to stain or paint it before continuing?
     
  2. wildorchid053

    wildorchid053 Chillin' With My Peeps

    May 12, 2009
    syracuse area, ny
    if it has contact with the soil it will rot out no matter if you paint or not.. if off the ground, if the paint is water proof it will help it last longer. you might consider a deck type paint for protection
     
  3. Maxie1101

    Maxie1101 Out Of The Brooder

    We're in the process of building our first coop right now. We used pressure treated wood for the base that contacts the ground, and regular wood for the rest of the coop framing and the run. I'm using Thompson's WaterSeal for all of the exposed wood and will paint the coop once we get the plywood up. I would think you should either paint or waterseal any exposed non-PT wood to make it last longer. I have heard of people water sealing after the hardware cloth was attached, they said it was a pain, but it is doable I believe. Good luck!
     
  4. hokankai

    hokankai Chillin' With My Peeps

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    Ugh. Well thanks to my frugal, inexperienced DF we used free non PT 2x12's that he found on the property as the bottom...how long is that gonna last before it needs to be replaced? [​IMG]

    Guess it isn't my problem though because he didn't follow my advice! [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 23, 2010
  5. Bear Foot Farm

    Bear Foot Farm Overrun With Chickens

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    we used free non PT 2x12's that he found on the property as the bottom...how long is that gonna last before it needs to be replaced

    You'll be lucky if it lasts a year in your wet climate.
    Either replace it with treated lumber, or treat it HEAVILY with Thompsons Water Seal.​
     
  6. hokankai

    hokankai Chillin' With My Peeps

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    hmm, alright then. this is what the run is looking like:
    [​IMG]

    since the weight is basically distributed to the 4x4s, you think it would be alright to dig a little trench under the bottom boards and seal them? it'll be a big pain and a bit of digging, but it'll be worth it if it'll make it last. the only part that is buried are the cement blocks holding the 4x4s, everything else is resting on the surface of the gravel (which was already there). all of the horizontal beams are screwed/nailed into the 4x4s.
     
  7. Bear Foot Farm

    Bear Foot Farm Overrun With Chickens

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    Water Seal has the consistancy of water.

    Put it in a small pump up garden sprayer, and all you need is room to get the tip under the bottom
     
  8. hokankai

    hokankai Chillin' With My Peeps

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    oh, perfect! shows what i know [​IMG]

    how long does it take for wood to dry out? i need to wait for it to dry out before sealing it right?
     
  9. Tala

    Tala Flock Mistress

    Quote:What I've heard is a 3-day dry out period (I heard it explained that way if you try to use wood posts without insulators for an electric fence....everytime it rains your fence will fail. duh)
    Of course it could always take longer if it's really humid.

    I always treat my deck in the less humid HOT days of summer at least 3 days since the last afternoon shower, to ensure that it's dry enough. Could be extreme, but I'd rather only have to do it once, ya know? My grandpa also always treated his deck in August for the same reasons, and it's been up there since the 1970's so it must work [​IMG]
     
  10. hokankai

    hokankai Chillin' With My Peeps

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    Alright, I've got a week of sun in a few days so I'll do it next week! I think I'll just finish putting the wire on and spray it last. I'll just have to do the apron as the very last thing to do!
     

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