Dumor 22% Duck All Lifestages feed

[Goosebaby]

According to the chart it says I should be giving them layer feed. It was separated by duck and goose but I’m assuming I can give them the same kind. The percentages in the minerals were slightly different from what I can see. I’ve been feeding them flockraiser due to the niacin.
So from what I’m seeing, it’s okay to just give them the pellets daily and give the other stuff on occasion?

You can give them layer feed but if you have ganders extra calcium isn’t great for their health and it’s not necessary for females during the off season when they aren’t laying.
Flock raiser is a feed you can feed at all stages, another option is nutrena all flock, or purina duck feed.

Metzer’s feed guide is a good guide but something to keep in mind is that it’s a general guide and it’s also suited to the geese at Metzer which is in Southern California and just recently now also in Tennessee, Southern California has a much milder winter climate than even where I’am in northern Ca, and nutritional requirements vary not just by climate but by breed and weight.

 

[Goosebaby]

Ok

For small to medium breeds “10lb to 15lb” it can pack a lot of weight on so you may have to monitor weight and be careful with portion sizes, for bigger birds “15lb to 20lb” it’s just right year round. Layers require extra calcium so oystershell free choice is an option.

 

[Goosebaby]

Here’s another way to look at diet for adult geese.

In colder months nutritional requirements go up, so you can put them on a higher protein feed “20%.”
During molting their nutritional needs also go up so they need a higher protein feed “20%.”
During warmer months when they aren’t molting and there’s plenty of grass they only really need a 17% feed.
For sick or underweight birds 30% feed is great for recovery, but shouldn’t be fed otherwise.

The simplest way to feed alot of geese of various ages and sizes is by keeping them on a 20% feed “which is what I do,” but like I said small breeds can get fairly chunky on that and it’s something you sometimes have to keep an eye on, but even that can vary depending on the bird, my small buff binges on feed whereas my small Roman self moderates.

 

[Ourgosling22]

Ok thank you. Trying to keep up with everything.

You can give them layer feed but if you have ganders extra calcium isn’t great for their health and it’s not necessary for females during the off season when they aren’t laying.
Flock raiser is a feed you can feed at all stages, another option is nutrena all flock, or purina duck feed.

Metzer’s feed guide is a good guide but something to keep in mind is that it’s a general guide and it’s also suited to the geese at Metzer which is in Southern California and just recently now also in Tennessee, Southern California has a much milder winter climate than even where I’am in northern Ca, and nutritional requirements vary not just by climate but by breed and weight.

 

[Ourgosling22]

Here’s another way to look at diet for adult geese.

In colder months nutritional requirements go up, so you can put them on a higher protein feed “20%.”
During molting their nutritional needs also go up so they need a higher protein feed “20%.”
During warmer months when they aren’t molting and there’s plenty of grass they only really need a 17% feed.
For sick or underweight birds 30% feed is great for recovery, but shouldn’t be fed otherwise.

The simplest way to feed alot of geese of various ages and sizes is by keeping them on a 20% feed “which is what I do,” but like I said small breeds can get fairly chunky on that and it’s something you sometimes have to keep an eye on, but even that can vary depending on the bird, my small buff binges on feed whereas my small Roman self moderates.

Ok-I just have a small flock of 6 Pekin and 3 white geese(sorry it’s late and I’m blanking on their breed) the one young one is one I’m trying to help with the limping walking struggle.(you thought it might have rickets but unsure) Sherbert seems to be doing a little better but still limps. So I’m questioning my feeding due to that and with it being spring. My ducks are not very plump but still very lively and active.

 

[EggSighted4Life]

According to the chart it says I should be giving them layer feed. It was separated by duck and goose but I’m assuming I can give them the same kind. The percentages in the minerals were slightly different from what I can see. I’ve been feeding them flockraiser due to the niacin.
So from what I’m seeing, it’s okay to just give them the pellets daily and give the other stuff on occasion?

As long as you make oyster shell available for the active layers.. yes, I think you got the idea. Their needs are close enough to one another that most commercial formulations will be within that range.

I have used Purina brand flock raiser (20% protein) for years without issue for ducks, chickens, and right aged turkeys) and it has geese listed to use for all life stages also.. I'm currently using a Dumor product.. All brands have issues at some time and turn over/freshness varies by location. I use Mazuri feeds for my other animals.. mini pigs, guinea pigs.. Brand and marketing doesn't matter beyond personal experience.

In colder months nutritional requirements go up, so you can put them on a higher protein feed “20%.”

Where does this SEASONAL information/suggestion come from and can you provide links. or corroboration. because despite it being what I previously thought and many folks still claim..the veterinary sources (I've seen so far) indicate the opposite is true. When not in breeding season, gamebirds often go on lower protein "maintenance" feed (as one example). There are green tables for individual poultry species on the side of the page as you scroll down in following link from a known and trusted resource (according to me). Though I'm not trying to convince you or anyone else I still prefer and choose (and recommend) the 20% protein (amino acid) level full time.

https://www.merckvetmanual.com/poul...t-poultry/nutritional-requirements-of-poultry

Trying to keep up with everything.

It's not easy.. but stick with a formulated ration and keep other things more balanced as a treat or enrichment, and hang in there.. Looks like you're getting it!

Regarding getting needed nutrients from BOSS.. please note this quote taken from the previous (Merck vet manual) link..

"The nutrient requirement values in the accompanying tables are based on typical rates of intake of birds in a thermoneutral environment consuming a diet that contains a specific energy content (eg, 3,200 kcal/kg for broilers). If a bird consumes a diet that has a higher energy content, it will decrease its feed intake; consequently, that diet must contain a proportionally higher amount of amino acids, vitamins, and minerals"

The simplest way to feed alot of geese of various ages and sizes is by keeping them on a 20% feed “which is what I do,” but like I said small breeds can get fairly chunky on that and it’s something you sometimes have to keep an eye on, but even that can vary depending on the bird, my small buff binges on feed whereas my small Roman self moderates.

Protein content is not what makes birds chunky or people.. energy is energy regardless of the source.. How is 4 calories from carbohydrates even fiber different than 4 calories from protein? Though protein content may be directly correlate to muscle development.. that's not chunkiness.. Please note.. I'm TRULY friendly chatting here and interested in your answer.. I'm NOT presuming to know anything!

And yes, molting birds are replacing feathers which despite being only 2% digestible in their raw form ARE made from 90% protein and it's amino acids.. They however are not *usually* laying during this time and that is where the redirected energy comes from and goes to.

Metzer’s feed guide is a good guide but something to keep in mind is that it’s a general guide and it’s also suited to the geese at Metzer

Well, I disagree about their guide being suited to environment rather than species.. What good would giving all your customers bad information be and have them end up with sick animals? Also.. how does it defer from the veterinary resource I added?? I do agree about it being a guide and some individuals may not fall in line with the "norm".. and yes of course.. they can't know what excess feed stuffs you're adding in or account for that. Even the veterinary resource states it's a guide based on "typical dietary energy concentrations".

the one young one is one I’m trying to help with the limping walking struggle.(you thought it might have rickets but unsure)

Sorry, I'm not sure of the whole story.. have you checked for injury?

Diet is a great consideration and you might be onto something! Have you posted video and such, did I miss a link to another thread? Some birds that have been impacted by nutrient deficit *may* not recover from their limping (or torticollis, etc) status even after the correction has been made, especially if persisting for some time already. Is veterinary care or assessment an option?

Hope everyone get's (or keeps) THEIR flock stuff dialed in and they continue (or start) to thrive!

 

[Goosebaby]

As long as you make oyster shell available for the active layers.. yes, I think you got the idea. Their needs are close enough to one another that most commercial formulations will be within that range.

I have used Purina brand flock raiser (20% protein) for years without issue for ducks, chickens, and right aged turkeys) and it has geese listed to use for all life stages also.. I'm currently using a Dumor product.. All brands have issues at some time and turn over/freshness varies by location. I use Mazuri feeds for my other animals.. mini pigs, guinea pigs.. Brand and marketing doesn't matter beyond personal experience.


Where does this SEASONAL information/suggestion come from and can you provide links. or corroboration. because despite it being what I previously thought and many folks still claim..the veterinary sources (I've seen so far) indicate the opposite is true. When not in breeding season, gamebirds often go on lower protein "maintenance" feed (as one example). There are green tables for individual poultry species on the side of the page as you scroll down in following link from a known and trusted resource (according to me). Though I'm not trying to convince you or anyone else I still prefer and choose (and recommend) the 20% protein (amino acid) level full time.

https://www.merckvetmanual.com/poul...t-poultry/nutritional-requirements-of-poultry


It's not easy.. but stick with a formulated ration and keep other things more balanced as a treat or enrichment, and hang in there.. Looks like you're getting it!

Regarding getting needed nutrients from BOSS.. please note this quote taken from the previous (Merck vet manual) link..

"The nutrient requirement values in the accompanying tables are based on typical rates of intake of birds in a thermoneutral environment consuming a diet that contains a specific energy content (eg, 3,200 kcal/kg for broilers). If a bird consumes a diet that has a higher energy content, it will decrease its feed intake; consequently, that diet must contain a proportionally higher amount of amino acids, vitamins, and minerals"


Protein content is not what makes birds chunky or people.. energy is energy regardless of the source.. How is 4 calories from carbohydrates even fiber different than 4 calories from protein? Though protein content may be directly correlate to muscle development.. that's not chunkiness.. Please note.. I'm TRULY friendly chatting here and interested in your answer.. I'm NOT presuming to know anything!

And yes, molting birds are replacing feathers which despite being only 2% digestible in their raw form ARE made from 90% protein and it's amino acids.. They however are not *usually* laying during this time and that is where the redirected energy comes from and goes to.


Well, I disagree about their guide being suited to environment rather than species.. What good would giving all your customers bad information be and have them end up with sick animals? Also.. how does it defer from the veterinary resource I added?? I do agree about it being a guide and some individuals may not fall in line with the "norm".. and yes of course.. they can't know what excess feed stuffs you're adding in or account for that. Even the veterinary resource states it's a guide based on "typical dietary energy concentrations".


Sorry, I'm not sure of the whole story.. have you checked for injury?

Diet is a great consideration and you might be onto something! Have you posted video and such, did I miss a link to another thread? Some birds that have been impacted by nutrient deficit *may* not recover from their limping (or torticollis, etc) status even after the correction has been made, especially if persisting for some time already. Is veterinary care or assessment an option?

Hope everyone get's (or keeps) THEIR flock stuff dialed in and they continue (or start) to thrive!

My information is based on my experience. When temperatures dip below freezing all of my geese get hungrier and eat more. Early on when I had them, I had them on a 17% feed through the winter and they rapidly lost weight in the cold months and when they molted some of them got stress bars on their feathers on a 17% feed also, both issues corrected themselves when giving a 20% feed in winter and during molting. My geese are primarily 17 to 20lb Toulouse, and compared to the smaller buffs and romans they struggle on a lower percentage feed. My roman cross and buffs put on a lot of weight on in warmer months on a 20% feed as compared to my larger birds, they don’t have this issue if I limit their portions or have them on a lower percentage feed.
I never said Metzer’s guide was incorrect, only that their birds are in a much different environment than mine, Metzer’s primary goal is to sell poultry and their experience with keeping birds is different than others just like my experiences are different than theirs or others. They don’t experience severe winters like I do, and my winters aren’t nearly as extreme as someone in Minnesota or elsewhere, temperature does play a role in feed intake.

 

[EggSighted4Life]

My information is based on my experience.

Thank you, personal experience is very valid.

I tried to agree they were guides based on specific things.. like thermo neutral environment and energy content (not nutrient density) of feed.. somehow I end up lost in awkwardness and seeming contrary. Sorry about that!

 

[Goosebaby]

Thank you, personal experience is very valid.

I tried to agree they were guides based on specific things.. like thermo neutral environment and energy content (not nutrient density) of feed.. somehow I end up lost in awkwardness and seeming contrary. Sorry about that!

No need to apologize, I knew what you were getting at

 

[Ourgosling22]

As long as you make oyster shell available for the active layers.. yes, I think you got the idea. Their needs are close enough to one another that most commercial formulations will be within that range.

I have used Purina brand flock raiser (20% protein) for years without issue for ducks, chickens, and right aged turkeys) and it has geese listed to use for all life stages also.. I'm currently using a Dumor product.. All brands have issues at some time and turn over/freshness varies by location. I use Mazuri feeds for my other animals.. mini pigs, guinea pigs.. Brand and marketing doesn't matter beyond personal experience.


Where does this SEASONAL information/suggestion come from and can you provide links. or corroboration. because despite it being what I previously thought and many folks still claim..the veterinary sources (I've seen so far) indicate the opposite is true. When not in breeding season, gamebirds often go on lower protein "maintenance" feed (as one example). There are green tables for individual poultry species on the side of the page as you scroll down in following link from a known and trusted resource (according to me). Though I'm not trying to convince you or anyone else I still prefer and choose (and recommend) the 20% protein (amino acid) level full time.

https://www.merckvetmanual.com/poul...t-poultry/nutritional-requirements-of-poultry


It's not easy.. but stick with a formulated ration and keep other things more balanced as a treat or enrichment, and hang in there.. Looks like you're getting it!

Regarding getting needed nutrients from BOSS.. please note this quote taken from the previous (Merck vet manual) link..

"The nutrient requirement values in the accompanying tables are based on typical rates of intake of birds in a thermoneutral environment consuming a diet that contains a specific energy content (eg, 3,200 kcal/kg for broilers). If a bird consumes a diet that has a higher energy content, it will decrease its feed intake; consequently, that diet must contain a proportionally higher amount of amino acids, vitamins, and minerals"


Protein content is not what makes birds chunky or people.. energy is energy regardless of the source.. How is 4 calories from carbohydrates even fiber different than 4 calories from protein? Though protein content may be directly correlate to muscle development.. that's not chunkiness.. Please note.. I'm TRULY friendly chatting here and interested in your answer.. I'm NOT presuming to know anything!

And yes, molting birds are replacing feathers which despite being only 2% digestible in their raw form ARE made from 90% protein and it's amino acids.. They however are not *usually* laying during this time and that is where the redirected energy comes from and goes to.


Well, I disagree about their guide being suited to environment rather than species.. What good would giving all your customers bad information be and have them end up with sick animals? Also.. how does it defer from the veterinary resource I added?? I do agree about it being a guide and some individuals may not fall in line with the "norm".. and yes of course.. they can't know what excess feed stuffs you're adding in or account for that. Even the veterinary resource states it's a guide based on "typical dietary energy concentrations".


Sorry, I'm not sure of the whole story.. have you checked for injury?

Diet is a great consideration and you might be onto something! Have you posted video and such, did I miss a link to another thread? Some birds that have been impacted by nutrient deficit *may* not recover from their limping (or torticollis, etc) status even after the correction has been made, especially if persisting for some time already. Is veterinary care or assessment an option?

Hope everyone get's (or keeps) THEIR flock stuff dialed in and they continue (or start) to thrive!

They have access to oyster shell all day they are out of coop. And I have checked for injury such as cut or splinter or sores on bottom of feet. I don’t notice anything out of the norm. Feet are clean and soft.
The only other thing I would know a little about is vitamin deficiency. Rickets is thought to be possible so just trying to cover all my bases. Since they were hatchlings I’ve had issues with these 2 young geese. Big or extended hips and bowlegged with one of them. But with flockraiser and adding nutritional yeast to their feed and giving them vit b complex it seemed to work somewhat. That was about 11 months ago. They had been doing pretty good. Even laying good hard goose size eggs.