EDUCATIONAL INCUBATION & HATCHING CHAT THREAD, w/ Sally Sunshine Shipped Eggs

[DwayneNLiz]

not a couple days old

i have given you my opinion
the reason i say day old, is people like the fluffy babies, or point of lay because they want eggs and dont want the hassle of raising them

 

[chicken hawk 33]

How long have you been working this project? How is the heritability and repeatability of their traits? i.e. skin color, leg/beak color, feather color, comb, earlobes, shape, egg color/size, etc. What steps do you have to take to get them recognized? I was under the impression that there needed to be a set number of breeders in the US and they had to be shown for a certain number of years in sanctioned shows. Freedom Rangers aren't recognized. (likely because they're too new, a hybrid and only have one breeder in the country) Neither are Cornish X. The Cornish is recognized in 4 colors, the Plymouth Rock is recognized in 7 colors Depends on how much weight each egg loses. There are around 17 things the University of Florida has identified that can kill an embryo in the first week of incubation. Eliminating those that aren't likely to be the cause, you can select possibilities from the following list. Eggs stored too long on under improper temperature Eggs damaged in transport Old breeders Embryologic development accidents Inbreeding/chromosome abnormalities Nutritional deficiencies, vitamin A, E, biotin, riboflavin, pantothenic acid, linoleic acid, boron, copper Drugs, toxins, pesticides Contamination Pre or early endoderm formation There are others but those could affect one egg and not the others. Thermometer - either a Brinsea Spot check http://www.brinsea.com/p-394-spot-check-digital-incubator-thermometer.aspx (accurate to +/- 0.2F) and/or a [COLOR=0066CC]http://www.thermoworks.com/RT301WA[/COLOR] (accurate to +/- 0.9F) The brinsea is more accurate but it only measures from 90F to 104F. Other than that it just reads with an L or H without knowing how high or how low. The thermoworks one measures from -40F to 302F. Hygrometer - use a scale instead, it is more accurate to determine actual moisture/weight loss in the egg rather just the RH the egg has experienced. The AMW-1Kg on the following page would be good for eggs. http://www.americanweigh.com/index.php?cPath=102 I haven't used a hygrometer in years. I weigh the day I collect/set and again at weekly intervals then adjust the amount of water to compensate if weights are over/under the linear graph. An accurate hygrometer is more expensive than a good thermometer. This is the cheapest I found with 3% humidity accuracy but the thermometer isn't that accurate. http://www.thermoworks.com/Pocket-TH-RT819 This one comes with a 10' probe and is accurate to ±3% RH at 77°F. http://www.thermoworks.com/Thermo-Hygrometer-RT817E Again, I wouldn't rely on the thermometer part. This is a great data logger that is very accurate for both

• Temperature Accuracy to ±0.9°F (±0.5°C)
• Humidity: ±2% RH @ 77°F (25°C) (10 to 90% RH)

and stores 8,000 readings so you know the ranges of temp and humidity the eggs experienced. http://www.thermoworks.com/ThermaData-HT With the above hygrometer, you'll never know. I have one with a remote I use to monitor conditions in one of the coops. The thermometer is fairly accurate but sometimes the hygrometer will read 99% for months. Right now it reads 80% but it is actually 64% out there. My next batch hatch in 6 days. There are a lot of good mutts in need of a good home. Agreed. I know I can't. Keeping a dog is WAAAY more expensive than when I was growing up with dogs. I'd like a dog, (other than my wife's) but I just can't afford it. Then there's all the time it takes to train one. I'll do without. None of the dogs I had growing up cost 400 in their entire lives other than for food. Are you getting a necropsy so you know what killed her. Since she was acting normal and just died, I would sure like to know what happened. Whenever I take a chicken to the vet school for necropsy, there are always people dropping off dogs. You have 3 labs in PA.
[TR] [TD] 41 [/TD] [TD] Pennsylvania [/TD] [TD] Pennsylvania State University, Animal Diagnostic Laboratory Wiley Ln University Park, Pennsylvania 16802 Phone: 814-863-0837 IAV-A, ND, [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] 42 [/TD] [TD] Pennsylvania [/TD] [TD] Pennsylvania Veterinary Laboratory Pennsylvania Department of Agriculture 2305 N Cameron Street Harrisburg, Pennsylvania 17110-9405 Phone: 717-787-8808 IAV-A, CSF, CWD*, ND, FMD, PRV, SCRAPIE, IAV-S* [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] 43 [/TD] [TD] Pennsylvania [/TD] [TD] University of Pennsylvania, School of Vet Med, New Bolton Center, PADLS 382 West Street Rd Kennett Square, Pennsylvania 19348-1692 Phone: 610-444-5800 IAV-A, CWD*, ND, SCRAPIE [/TD] [/TR]
Nice pictures. People live for Friday making Wednesday hump day - getting over the hump. All down hill from here. To identify individual birds without leg bands or wing banding. I opt for leg bands. I've never heard of infection either. One can disinfect the wound and put the chicks on clean bedding which shouldn't be an issue. They get worse damage free ranging on rough terrain. And they heal so fast. The reason I haven't done it is I like to know the age and number of a bird from a distance. Lots of breeding pens is still a necessity. How many breeds are you working with? I only have 5 breeding units and a couple other coops that can function as such but I'm only working with one breed. I'm still using leg bands and will probably continue to do so. I have about 12 different colors of zip ties. by combining them on both legs I can determine nearly unlimited numbers of parentage. I do set an alarm on my phone to remind me to check and replace them. I switch to numbered bandettes when they are big enough to keep a #7 on. They do tend to lose them so I have to check them often to see if any are missing so I can replace them. I wonder if a dab of superglue would keep them on.

but that's difficult when u have a lot of eggs.I have never weighed them

 

[OneMountainAcres]

@ChickenCanoe no, we're not having a necropsy done. We don't have much extra money and no matter what, it won't bring her back. It's possible that she was diabetic and she probably had cancer. That's enough for us.

 

[meltel]

How long have you been working this project? How is the heritability and repeatability of their traits? i.e. skin color, leg/beak color, feather color, comb, earlobes, shape, egg color/size, etc.
What steps do you have to take to get them recognized?
I was under the impression that there needed to be a set number of breeders in the US and they had to be shown for a certain number of years in sanctioned shows.
Freedom Rangers aren't recognized. (likely because they're too new, a hybrid and only have one breeder in the country) Neither are Cornish X. The Cornish is recognized in 4 colors, the Plymouth Rock is recognized in 7 colors


Depends on how much weight each egg loses.

There are around 17 things the University of Florida has identified that can kill an embryo in the first week of incubation.
Eliminating those that aren't likely to be the cause, you can select possibilities from the following list.
Eggs stored too long on under improper temperature
Eggs damaged in transport
Old breeders
Embryologic development accidents
Inbreeding/chromosome abnormalities
Nutritional deficiencies, vitamin A, E, biotin, riboflavin, pantothenic acid, linoleic acid, boron, copper
Drugs, toxins, pesticides
Contamination
Pre or early endoderm formation

There are others but those could affect one egg and not the others.

Thermometer - either a Brinsea Spot check http://www.brinsea.com/p-394-spot-check-digital-incubator-thermometer.aspx (accurate to +/- 0.2F)
and/or a http://www.thermoworks.com/RT301WA (accurate to +/- 0.9F)
The brinsea is more accurate but it only measures from 90F to 104F. Other than that it just reads with an L or H without knowing how high or how low.
The thermoworks one measures from -40F to 302F.

Hygrometer - use a scale instead, it is more accurate to determine actual moisture/weight loss in the egg rather just the RH the egg has experienced.
The AMW-1Kg on the following page would be good for eggs. http://www.americanweigh.com/index.php?cPath=102
I haven't used a hygrometer in years. I weigh the day I collect/set and again at weekly intervals then adjust the amount of water to compensate if weights are over/under the linear graph.

An accurate hygrometer is more expensive than a good thermometer.
This is the cheapest I found with 3% humidity accuracy but the thermometer isn't that accurate. http://www.thermoworks.com/Pocket-TH-RT819
This one comes with a 10' probe and is accurate to ±3% RH at 77°F. http://www.thermoworks.com/Thermo-Hygrometer-RT817E Again, I wouldn't rely on the thermometer part.

This is a great data logger that is very accurate for both

• Temperature Accuracy to ±0.9°F (±0.5°C)
• Humidity: ±2% RH @ 77°F (25°C) (10 to 90% RH)

and stores 8,000 readings so you know the ranges of temp and humidity the eggs experienced.
http://www.thermoworks.com/ThermaData-HT

With the above hygrometer, you'll never know. I have one with a remote I use to monitor conditions in one of the coops. The thermometer is fairly accurate but sometimes the hygrometer will read 99% for months. Right now it reads 80% but it is actually 64% out there.

My next batch hatch in 6 days.

There are a lot of good mutts in need of a good home.

Agreed.

I know I can't. Keeping a dog is WAAAY more expensive than when I was growing up with dogs. I'd like a dog, (other than my wife's) but I just can't afford it. Then there's all the time it takes to train one. I'll do without.
None of the dogs I had growing up cost 400 in their entire lives other than for food.

Are you getting a necropsy so you know what killed her. Since she was acting normal and just died, I would sure like to know what happened.
Whenever I take a chicken to the vet school for necropsy, there are always people dropping off dogs.
You have 3 labs in PA.
41

Pennsylvania

Pennsylvania State University, Animal Diagnostic Laboratory
Wiley Ln
University Park, Pennsylvania 16802
Phone: 814-863-0837
IAV-A, ND,
42

Pennsylvania

Pennsylvania Veterinary Laboratory
Pennsylvania Department of Agriculture
2305 N Cameron Street
Harrisburg, Pennsylvania 17110-9405
Phone: 717-787-8808
IAV-A, CSF, CWD*, ND, FMD, PRV, SCRAPIE, IAV-S*
43

Pennsylvania

University of Pennsylvania,
School of Vet Med, New Bolton Center, PADLS
382 West Street Rd
Kennett Square, Pennsylvania 19348-1692
Phone: 610-444-5800
IAV-A, CWD*, ND, SCRAPIE

Nice pictures.

People live for Friday making Wednesday hump day - getting over the hump. All down hill from here.

To identify individual birds without leg bands or wing banding.
I opt for leg bands.

I've never heard of infection either. One can disinfect the wound and put the chicks on clean bedding which shouldn't be an issue. They get worse damage free ranging on rough terrain. And they heal so fast.
The reason I haven't done it is I like to know the age and number of a bird from a distance.
Lots of breeding pens is still a necessity. How many breeds are you working with?
I only have 5 breeding units and a couple other coops that can function as such but I'm only working with one breed.

I'm still using leg bands and will probably continue to do so. I have about 12 different colors of zip ties. by combining them on both legs I can determine nearly unlimited numbers of parentage. I do set an alarm on my phone to remind me to check and replace them. I switch to numbered bandettes when they are big enough to keep a #7 on.

They do tend to lose them so I have to check them often to see if any are missing so I can replace them. I wonder if a dab of superglue would keep them on.

No charge on todays visit. He is doing much better. Now we have 2 dogs on 2 different prescription foods that cost $150 a month plus and one dog that eats whatever they do. Bill & I don't have human children. The animals are our babies

 

[deserteggs22]

How long have you been working this project? How is the heritability and repeatability of their traits? i.e. skin color, leg/beak color, feather color, comb, earlobes, shape, egg color/size, etc. What steps do you have to take to get them recognized? I was under the impression that there needed to be a set number of breeders in the US and they had to be shown for a certain number of years in sanctioned shows. Freedom Rangers aren't recognized. (likely because they're too new, a hybrid and only have one breeder in the country) Neither are Cornish X. The Cornish is recognized in 4 colors, the Plymouth Rock is recognized in 7 colors Depends on how much weight each egg loses. There are around 17 things the University of Florida has identified that can kill an embryo in the first week of incubation. Eliminating those that aren't likely to be the cause, you can select possibilities from the following list. Eggs stored too long on under improper temperature Eggs damaged in transport Old breeders Embryologic development accidents Inbreeding/chromosome abnormalities Nutritional deficiencies, vitamin A, E, biotin, riboflavin, pantothenic acid, linoleic acid, boron, copper Drugs, toxins, pesticides Contamination Pre or early endoderm formation There are others but those could affect one egg and not the others. Thermometer - either a Brinsea Spot check http://www.brinsea.com/p-394-spot-check-digital-incubator-thermometer.aspx (accurate to +/- 0.2F) and/or a [COLOR=0066CC]http://www.thermoworks.com/RT301WA[/COLOR] (accurate to +/- 0.9F) The brinsea is more accurate but it only measures from 90F to 104F. Other than that it just reads with an L or H without knowing how high or how low. The thermoworks one measures from -40F to 302F. Hygrometer - use a scale instead, it is more accurate to determine actual moisture/weight loss in the egg rather just the RH the egg has experienced. The AMW-1Kg on the following page would be good for eggs. http://www.americanweigh.com/index.php?cPath=102 I haven't used a hygrometer in years. I weigh the day I collect/set and again at weekly intervals then adjust the amount of water to compensate if weights are over/under the linear graph. An accurate hygrometer is more expensive than a good thermometer. This is the cheapest I found with 3% humidity accuracy but the thermometer isn't that accurate. http://www.thermoworks.com/Pocket-TH-RT819 This one comes with a 10' probe and is accurate to ±3% RH at 77°F. http://www.thermoworks.com/Thermo-Hygrometer-RT817E Again, I wouldn't rely on the thermometer part. This is a great data logger that is very accurate for both

• Temperature Accuracy to ±0.9°F (±0.5°C)
• Humidity: ±2% RH @ 77°F (25°C) (10 to 90% RH)

and stores 8,000 readings so you know the ranges of temp and humidity the eggs experienced. http://www.thermoworks.com/ThermaData-HT With the above hygrometer, you'll never know. I have one with a remote I use to monitor conditions in one of the coops. The thermometer is fairly accurate but sometimes the hygrometer will read 99% for months. Right now it reads 80% but it is actually 64% out there. My next batch hatch in 6 days. There are a lot of good mutts in need of a good home. Agreed. I know I can't. Keeping a dog is WAAAY more expensive than when I was growing up with dogs. I'd like a dog, (other than my wife's) but I just can't afford it. Then there's all the time it takes to train one. I'll do without. None of the dogs I had growing up cost 400 in their entire lives other than for food. Are you getting a necropsy so you know what killed her. Since she was acting normal and just died, I would sure like to know what happened. Whenever I take a chicken to the vet school for necropsy, there are always people dropping off dogs. You have 3 labs in PA.
[TR] [TD] 41 [/TD] [TD] Pennsylvania [/TD] [TD] Pennsylvania State University, Animal Diagnostic Laboratory Wiley Ln University Park, Pennsylvania 16802 Phone: 814-863-0837 IAV-A, ND, [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] 42 [/TD] [TD] Pennsylvania [/TD] [TD] Pennsylvania Veterinary Laboratory Pennsylvania Department of Agriculture 2305 N Cameron Street Harrisburg, Pennsylvania 17110-9405 Phone: 717-787-8808 IAV-A, CSF, CWD*, ND, FMD, PRV, SCRAPIE, IAV-S* [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] 43 [/TD] [TD] Pennsylvania [/TD] [TD] University of Pennsylvania, School of Vet Med, New Bolton Center, PADLS 382 West Street Rd Kennett Square, Pennsylvania 19348-1692 Phone: 610-444-5800 IAV-A, CWD*, ND, SCRAPIE [/TD] [/TR]
Nice pictures. People live for Friday making Wednesday hump day - getting over the hump. All down hill from here. To identify individual birds without leg bands or wing banding. I opt for leg bands. I've never heard of infection either. One can disinfect the wound and put the chicks on clean bedding which shouldn't be an issue. They get worse damage free ranging on rough terrain. And they heal so fast. The reason I haven't done it is I like to know the age and number of a bird from a distance. Lots of breeding pens is still a necessity. How many breeds are you working with? I only have 5 breeding units and a couple other coops that can function as such but I'm only working with one breed. I'm still using leg bands and will probably continue to do so. I have about 12 different colors of zip ties. by combining them on both legs I can determine nearly unlimited numbers of parentage. I do set an alarm on my phone to remind me to check and replace them. I switch to numbered bandettes when they are big enough to keep a #7 on. They do tend to lose them so I have to check them often to see if any are missing so I can replace them. I wonder if a dab of superglue would keep them on.

There is an animal shelter by my house that has some puppies...... I might go check them out later today.

 

[chicken hawk 33]

I hope I get a good hatch

 

[meltel]

I hope I get a good hatch

Just remember. chicks from hatcheries sell for about $3 a chick and they are not mixes. So I would expect for you to get $1.50-$2.00 a chick for straight run mixed breed. I would start seeing if there is local interest to buy them-I'm not sure where you take them to sell or what the market is like in your area. also remember if you sell at point of lay, think of how much money you spend on feed and their care and how much you can get per bird... You might actually lose money

 

[Leave a LightOn]

I hope I get a good hatch

I hope so, too.

 

[DwayneNLiz]

Just remember. chicks from hatcheries sell for about $3 a chick and they are not mixes. So I would expect for you to get $1.50-$2.00 a chick for straight run mixed breed. I would start seeing if there is local interest to buy them-I'm not sure where you take them to sell or what the market is like in your area. also remember if you sell at point of lay, think of how much money you spend on feed and their care and how much you can get per bird... You might actually lose money

 

[kajira]

Yep - They have the ability to mass-breed, and do massive amounts of chicks.