Egg Yolk Peritonitis Prevention or Management

I cant believe how much I have learned from this forum in the past few days!Thank you. I learned how to administer the penicillin from the local feed shop. Day one down and three to go!
 
After the four days of the penicillin injections, and 6 days later, my hen is running, jumping and flying to her perch once again! She seems happy and in no pain. She still looks a bit swollen but not as much as before. She still has a dirty tush.
I am wondering if there is any merit to having her vent flushed out? Like a douch?
This idea may be the vinegar flush that was suggested?
Thanks for helping me! I appreciate it and am very proud that I learned how to give a shot!
 
For those who are going to read this post, let me reiterate what's been said before: Egg Yolk Peritonitis is not contagious, just very common. I'm the chickie mommy of Stella, and her sister Blanche is now exhibiting the same symptoms. Last night, I took her temperature and it was 107 degrees fahrenheit. I gave her a dose of oral calcium citrate, where I ground up the tablets that I take, solubilized them with water and dripped it into her mouth. I had read that this could help her pass an bound egg. I could feel an egg inside her last night. This morning, her temperature was 106 degrees and I could no longer feel the egg, but she spent the night in the bathroom, and there's no egg in the room, so I think she's dropped it into her peritoneum. I can't feel it in there either, but she's pretty swollen and could probably hide an egg from my probing with all that swelling. So, I gave her a 1/4 cc shot of penicillin in her breast, making sure I wasn't on a blood vessel. I'm hoping that her temperature will go down with the antibiotic, and may try to aspirate some of the fluid out of her abdomen.

Here's my question: I read that you could put the bird in total darkness to break her egglaying cycle for a year. Does this work? Blanche is such a sweet girl that I don't care if I ever have another egg from her, but want to have her around. If total darkness does disrupt their ovulation, how long does it really last?
 
For those who are going to read this post, let me reiterate what's been said before: Egg Yolk Peritonitis is not contagious, just very common. I'm the chickie mommy of Stella, and her sister Blanche is now exhibiting the same symptoms. Last night, I took her temperature and it was 107 degrees fahrenheit. I gave her a dose of oral calcium citrate, where I ground up the tablets that I take, solubilized them with water and dripped it into her mouth. I had read that this could help her pass an bound egg. I could feel an egg inside her last night. This morning, her temperature was 106 degrees and I could no longer feel the egg, but she spent the night in the bathroom, and there's no egg in the room, so I think she's dropped it into her peritoneum. I can't feel it in there either, but she's pretty swollen and could probably hide an egg from my probing with all that swelling. So, I gave her a 1/4 cc shot of penicillin in her breast, making sure I wasn't on a blood vessel. I'm hoping that her temperature will go down with the antibiotic, and may try to aspirate some of the fluid out of her abdomen.

Here's my question: I read that you could put the bird in total darkness to break her egglaying cycle for a year. Does this work? Blanche is such a sweet girl that I don't care if I ever have another egg from her, but want to have her around. If total darkness does disrupt their ovulation, how long does it really last?
I have talked to the chicken doctor (peter brown) about a hen I have that's a possible internal layer, and we are trying a forced molt - total darkness, reduced feed, etc. Mine is at a very early stage so it's worth a shot!
 
One thing I forgot to ask: how long do I keep her in total darkness? (And how will I explain this to my husband... ;-) )

What I am doing is: 24H no food, total darkness. Then move to low protein food and water only (scratch grains) with no more than 8 hours light day. Mine is pretty early (she laid an egg just about 5 days ago) so I am giving it a shot. I do have penicillin here, but have not given any.
 
No, you cannot stop an egglaying cycle for an entire year if she isn't laying internally. Wonder who got that idea? Chronic EYP or other illness will stop laying anyway.

You know what is probably the best thing for hens? To not have the broody tendencies bred out of them by hatcheries so they will take natural breaks to raise chicks! Of course, people who want their egg a day from every bird they own don't want that.

When a hen raises chicks and has naturally reduced food and water intake while brooding the eggs, she goes into a molt, in case some of you haven't had the experience of broodies. Happens every time. She sits for 3 weeks, then probably doesn't start back laying again for 3-8 weeks after that while raising her young ones. It gives her body a much deserved rest and may even save her from ever having to experience internal laying or EYP.
 
No, you cannot stop an egglaying cycle for an entire year if she isn't laying internally. Wonder who got that idea? Chronic EYP or other illness will stop laying anyway.

Yah, we are trying the forced molt, but I certainly don't think she will stop for an entire year. LOL. My possible internal layer had a perfectly normal egg today. Hmph. Not sure what to think on that one. She looks great but has the swollen abdomen and the penguin waddle.
 
You know what is probably the best thing for hens? To not have the broody tendencies bred out of them by hatcheries so they will take natural breaks to raise chicks! Of course, people who want their egg a day from every bird they own don't want that.
I agree, Speckledhen, I am pleased when my pet hens go broody or take a break during the winter - I figure they deserve the break from laying.


I know what you mean, you want her to stop ovulating so that she doesn't lay internally. I don't think you can interrupt her cycle for a year, but at least a reduction in light and protein reduces ovulation. But then you are faced with quality of life issues if your hen is bonded with the flock and has to be separated to reduce hours of light.
 

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