Feather plucking

[ecwdavis]

I have 3 chickens

Two black sexlink and a black Australorp.

One of the sex links is alpha, the other tends to do her own thing and the Australorp is very broody.

The non alpha sex link and Australorp have developed bald areas, on their hind ends and the Australorp on her belly, between her legs.

I put chicken glasses on the alpha as she is the only one not suffeting feather loss... but to no avail.

The Austalorp sits on the nest until I take away the two eggs she is guarding - usually at lunch time.

Is there anyway to stop the feather plucking from the two non dominant chickens? And, is there a way to stop broodiness, this is the second bout of broody behavior since May

 

[Soozequeu11]

I have 3 chickens

Two black sexlink and a black Australorp.

One of the sex links is alpha, the other tends to do her own thing and the Australorp is very broody.

The non alpha sex link and Australorp have developed bald areas, on their hind ends and the Australorp on her belly, between her legs.

I put chicken glasses on the alpha as she is the only one not suffeting feather loss... but to no avail.

The Austalorp sits on the nest until I take away the two eggs she is guarding - usually at lunch time.

Is there anyway to stop the feather plucking from the two non dominant chickens? And, is there a way to stop broodiness, this is the second bout of broody behavior since May

Have you checked them for mites? Sometimes parasites will cause this behavior. Also give them more protein, like meal worms. Some will eat their feathers if they have a protein deficiency. As for the bloodiness, she’s just doing what comes natural, just keep trying.

 

[ecwdavis]

Have you checked them for mites? Sometimes parasites will cause this behavior. Also give them more protein, like meal worms. Some will eat their feathers if they have a protein deficiency. As for the bloodiness, she’s just doing what comes natural, just keep trying.

Thank you for the reply.

I did wonder about parasites, but the alpha chicken has no feather loss at all - and they all hang out together, so I'm thinking as she is showing no sign, that is not the issue.

I will feed them more protein, the broody one in particular, I feel does not eat enough, she feels lighter than the other two.

I have the Flock party snack for them, but its the oat and mealworms variety. I will get them some mealworm only and see if that helps. The Austalorp particularly - she has nibbled the ends of her feathers about half way down along her back - I'm thinking protein is the issue.

It maybe the alpha chicken gobbles the majority of the protein to herself, so the other two have resorted to feather eating.

Thanks again!

 

[rosemarythyme]

To break a broody:
Put her in an isolation cage with some food and water, in sight of the others (in the coop if it's not too hot or in/near the run is ideal). A wire cage elevated to air flow under her would be the best option, however I've used everything from a brooder to a dog exercise pen.

Keep her in the cage around the clock for about 2 days. At that time, if she's shows fewer signs of broodiness (puffing up, flattening down and growling, tik tik tik noise) you can let her out to test her. If she runs back to the nest at any point (usually they don't do it immediately, but maybe after 15 minutes, maybe an hour) then she's not yet sufficiently broken and needs to go back to the cage for another 24 hours. Then let her out and test her again. Repeat until she's no longer going to the nest box.

IF the isolation cage is not safe for overnight stay (i.e. sits outside the run) then put her on the roost at night, and retrieve her from the nest box the next morning and put her back in the cage. It may take a little longer this way but better than letting a predator get to her.

 

[rosemarythyme]

As far as the feather picking, the Australorp is bare underneath because she's broody. Feather picking can be a symptom of protein deficiency and/or boredom. Upping protein in feed can help. Having plenty of stuff for the chickens to interact with and hide behind (if they're being picked) can help with boredom issues.

 

[ecwdavis]

To break a broody:
Put her in an isolation cage with some food and water, in sight of the others (in the coop if it's not too hot or in/near the run is ideal). A wire cage elevated to air flow under her would be the best option, however I've used everything from a brooder to a dog exercise pen.

Keep her in the cage around the clock for about 2 days. At that time, if she's shows fewer signs of broodiness (puffing up, flattening down and growling, tik tik tik noise) you can let her out to test her. If she runs back to the nest at any point (usually they don't do it immediately, but maybe after 15 minutes, maybe an hour) then she's not yet sufficiently broken and needs to go back to the cage for another 24 hours. Then let her out and test her again. Repeat until she's no longer going to the nest box.

IF the isolation cage is not safe for overnight stay (i.e. sits outside the run) then put her on the roost at night, and retrieve her from the nest box the next morning and put her back in the cage. It may take a little longer this way but better than letting a predator get to her.

Thank you for the rey.

We have a coop extension, and I have a pet carrier that might work... I will give this a try, I have the chick food and watering bottles that should be enough for one hen...

 

[Mimi13]

As @rosemarythyme mentioned, the hen needs to be up off the floor to allow cooler air to pass underneath her. This cooler air is what stops the broodiness. A pet carrier won’t work unless it is large enough to put a wire bottom in it. You still will have the problem of three sides not allowing air to circulate under her.

 

[aart]

We have a coop extension, and I have a pet carrier that might work

How big is your coop and run, in feet by feet?
Crowding is the most common reason for feather picking.

Need a wire bottomed crate for broody breaking.

 

[ecwdavis]

As @rosemarythyme mentioned, the hen needs to be up off the floor to allow cooler air to pass underneath her. This cooler air is what stops the broodiness. A pet carrier won’t work unless it is large enough to put a wire bottom in it. You still will have the problem of three sides not allowing air to circulate under her.

Ah.

Hm. I may have to turn the carrier upside down it has vents in the top. I will have my husband drill a couple of holes extra too, and put it up on blocks... see if that works.

Thank you!

 

[rosemarythyme]

Pet carrier may or may not work as-is... I don't have a wire crate but I also put broodies/potential broodies in isolation immediately, before they really get settled, so they break reliably regardless of not having extra ventilation on bottom.

Your bird has been setting a little longer so the extra air flow underneath can only help.