For the MINIMALISTS - those who think less is more in chicken keeping - Please help

[GetFitWithKrista]

The fluffing under the roost takes about 15 seconds, I keep a 'poking stick' close by, and I have to open the coop currently to take the eggs so I just do it then. I don't do it every day though! And yes, before I got chickens I just shredded a lot newspaper by hand whenever I had a few spare moments (most people use a shredder) and put it into a big bag. It's been great and I haven't had to add a ton over the winter, just every so often a bit to the coop. When I scoop out the run in a few weeks I plan on putting all the coop contents into the run to break down so that when I scoop it out again before the winter it will be broken down.

This is a great method and you're able to use what you have on hand. Thanks for explaining your method. It's fascinating how each person has their own system.

 

[GetFitWithKrista]

I also don't have a ramp/ladder but I built a few floating steps that they just hop up on.

That's cute. I bet they like that. Thanks for sharing.

 

[GetFitWithKrista]

@In the mtns @GetFitWithKrista

I changed so many things I had planned to do for a coop and run due to BYC: the ideas, suggestions, experience here. I was planning on a pallet coop, but am very happy so far with my hoop coop...and I built it myself with very little help.

View attachment 3438395

I'm sure I'll change things as we go. I feel like I have such a great starting point though thanks to you all. Great pic.

 

[GetFitWithKrista]

Here's my ramp. It's covered with a rubber treaded mat.

That's cool. No injured chickens there.

 

[Ridgerunner]

From your photo the pop door is up pretty high. My chickens have no problem flying up to a 5' high roost or a 4' high nest so I don't have ramps to nests or roosts. My pop door is up about a foot above the coop floor and the run outside. I built steps out of pavers for that, not for the adults but so very young chicks can get in or out with a broody hen. By the time that they are two weeks old my chicks can easily fly over two feet so those steps are for a limited amount of time.

But you are talking about getting a Silkie. Silkies can't fly, you will need a ramp or steps.

It's fascinating how each person has their own system.

That's a valuable lesson for about everything to do with chickens. I can't think of anything where there is just one right way to do something and every other way is wrong. There are a multitude of ways that can work for practically anything. Your specific circumstances may make one way better than some others though. That's one of the hard parts for you, trying to determine if what somebody says actually applies to you.

When deciding between a ramp of steps, I'd look at how each may hinder your access to the run. I'm partial to steps because I think they work better with broody hens and baby chicks but that is not a consideration for you.

 

[Folly's place]

About Silkies, and introducing one bird at a time. Not best, better to introduce at least two, or more, if possible. Silkies can't fly, or manage either high heat or extreme cold. Those cute feathers aren't efficient at all, and in general this breed is more fragile than normally feathered birds. Many people with Silkies have a separate coop for them.
We started with Belgian d'Uccles and Silkies from a neighbor, and no knowledge about them. It didn't go well for the Silkies, and we've never had any again.
Can you build a wider run? At least five feet wide, or more, will work better for managing flock interactions.
Mary

 

[GetFitWithKrista]

From your photo the pop door is up pretty high. My chickens have no problem flying up to a 5' high roost or a 4' high nest so I don't have ramps to nests or roosts. My pop door is up about a foot above the coop floor and the run outside. I built steps out of pavers for that, not for the adults but so very young chicks can get in or out with a broody hen. By the time that they are two weeks old my chicks can easily fly over two feet so those steps are for a limited amount of time.

Oh man, I have a 3' fence in my yard. I was hoping to be able to let them out to that area with my supervision. I guess I can't do that? Can they stay in their run all the time? It's a decent size at 11.5'w x 6'd for 5 maybe 6, but is it big enough? We could take from the coop but that's only 3'd. I don't think I should go less than that. I could make the run bigger but costs do come into account. How much deeper would you suggest for the run?

What size are they at 2 months? I have:
1 Dark Brahma
2 Easter Eggers
1 Cream Legbar
1 Olive Egger
Hopefully a silkie in my future but that's not set in stone

That's a valuable lesson for about everything to do with chickens. I can't think of anything where there is just one right way to do something and every other way is wrong. There are a multitude of ways that can work for practically anything. Your specific circumstances may make one way better than some others though. That's one of the hard parts for you, trying to determine if what somebody says actually applies to you.

Very good point. I have taken everyones awesome advice and made notes. I will apply the things that I think will work for us and leave the rest to go back to as backups if they don't. No sand though, right?

When deciding between a ramp of steps, I'd look at how each may hinder your access to the run. I'm partial to steps because I think they work better with broody hens and baby chicks but that is not a consideration for you.

I think I want to follow the directions in the plans for now. They seem to be mostly well thought out by someone who has a background in chicken keeping. He says he continually updates his plans based on feedback from people who buy them and build them, and he has been doing it for a while so he's got some experience. Plus I like supporting a small business and he's very responsive to questions which goes a long way with me.

I definitely have to made modifications to account for 12" of extra space height wise in the coop for deep bedding. Is that enough? and possibly a second pop door. Aside from the steps/ramp situation, I think they were the only problems discussed.

 

[GetFitWithKrista]

About Silkies, and introducing one bird at a time. Not best, better to introduce at least two, or more, if possible. Silkies can't fly, or manage either high heat or extreme cold. Those cute feathers aren't efficient at all, and in general this breed is more fragile than normally feathered birds. Many people with Silkies have a separate coop for them.
We started with Belgian d'Uccles and Silkies from a neighbor, and no knowledge about them. It didn't go well for the Silkies, and we've never had any again.
Can you build a wider run? At least five feet wide, or more, will work better for managing flock interactions.
Mary

My neighbor has 21 chickens and 3 are silkies. Maybe I'll see how it goes for him for a while. Thanks for the warning.

My dimensions are 11.5'w x 9'd for the whole structure for 5 or 6 chickies. The coop is 11.5'w x 3'd. The run is 11.5'w x 6'd. I could probably make it a little deeper but wider would be a huge additional cost.

 

[Folly's place]

Bigger is always better, and cost matters a lot too. Many of us use common lumber, plywood dimensions when planning sizes, so 4', 8', and 12' make sense when designing a structure. Less cutting and waste that way.
Mary

 

[GetFitWithKrista]

Question from the husband about the exterior of the coop where we may let them out sometimes:
In landscaping around the coop, can we use small river rock (see photo)? Husband says no mulch.

I also included a photo of the area we are using and my neighbors fence. Will they fly over this? It's 3'h