French frogs

[Ravynscroft]

I've restored too many cars not to do an over the top resto.  It either stays in barn find condition (but cleaned) or full on restoration, I can't seem to manage anything in between.

My kind of gal!!

 

[WalnutHill]

I gotta find the links to the on diary thread where I have all this stuff. I pulled it for the incu thread but didnt add those links yet.

Sally, did you follow what happened on my latest hatch? I set fresh eggs in my GQF and filled the water reservoir. After 4 days I candled and the air cells were not even visible! I drained the reservoir and went on a 10 day vacation. I came home on day 14 and candled, and found...air cells at day 4 stage. My son tried to be helpful and added water every day.

I took all the water out again and ran 16% humidity, as low as I could go, and ran from day 14 to day 20. All 8 eggs had normal sized air cells by day 20, and all hatched on day 21 without any sticky chicks, but the membranes were in terrible condition...leathery and tan...due to the desert-like conditions the last few days.

This is just my observation, and was not a controlled test, but these chicks are among the most active I've ever hatched.

 

[Ravynscroft]

around 11 or so days of incubation the chorio-allantoic membrane reaches the pointed end of the egg from turning and stimulation, thats why turning is so important up to this time.  if the albumen sac is too large cause of lack of weight loss the membrane wont reach the the bottom of the egg and cause for a smaller area for the embryo to grow and in turn will cause DIS just at lockdown and hatch.   you can see this by candling not only the top of the eggs to watch weight loss, but candle the bottom of the eggs to keep an eye on this membrane to see if it has any effects on viability, also after hatch check out those eggs and see where the membrane actually went to. 
 
 

I gotta find the links to the on diary thread where I have all this stuff. I pulled it for the incu thread but didnt add those links yet. 

Aiyah, that is connected with turning and moisture/weight loss in the egg... yup, got that... but here's the thing... w/out misting they are running between 25-30% humidity, and many DIS at lockdown w/out internal pip... the ones that do hatch come out with globs of jelly goo...

Misting drops humidity 5-10% more after it evaporates... more make it through lockdown to internal pip, but many come out with liquid over them that dries like cement...

 

[Sally Sunshine]

Sally, did you follow what happened on my latest hatch? I set fresh eggs in my GQF and filled the water reservoir. After 4 days I candled and the air cells were not even visible! I drained the reservoir and went on a 10 day vacation. I came home on day 14 and candled, and found...air cells at day 4 stage. My son tried to be helpful and added water every day.

I took all the water out again and ran 16% humidity, as low as I could go, and ran from day 14 to day 20. All 8 eggs had normal sized air cells by day 20, and all hatched on day 21 without any sticky chicks, but the membranes were in terrible condition...leathery and tan...due to the desert-like conditions the last few days.

This is just my observation, and was not a controlled test, but these chicks are among the most active I've ever hatched.

not up till you came back, you told us about the kid adding water and then you werent gonna check them yet and thats the last update.
interesting, you had them in the new refurbed bator? what turning does that run on?
I did better incubating the little silky ducks horizontal but again they were shipped everytime, never had my own to set, so the ph in the albumen was already changed too. They say that turning is a very important part of this CAM spread more than the humidity.
Quote:

 

[Sally Sunshine]

post #22187 post #22229 post #22178



CAM links that I pulled, there is more info on the diary thread, but its alot of research stuff that will make a head spin

 

[WalnutHill]

Quote:
Yes, that is in the refurb GQF. The turner rotates 90 degrees every two hours, eggs are fat end up. I did not manually rotate the eggs in the trays to increase the vascular area (I have done that in the past).

I have another 8 or so eggs developing now that will hatch in a week and a half. I will only be gone 4 days this time.

I have turkey eggs in cool storage, I have them on their side in an egg tray and rotate 90 degrees 3 times a day in the same direction. Storage humidity is 65% and storage temp is 65F.

 

[Sally Sunshine]

Aiyah, that is connected with turning and moisture/weight loss in the egg... yup, got that... but here's the thing... w/out misting they are running between 25-30% humidity, and many DIS at lockdown w/out internal pip... the ones that do hatch come out with globs of jelly goo...

Misting drops humidity 5-10% more after it evaporates... more make it through lockdown to internal pip, but many come out with liquid over them that dries like cement...

yes that yellow jelly crap.. and the DIS are not mals?

at some point you should try to do the warm dip and cooling of the eggs to see if you loose more weight from the heat pulling out of the egg instead of the egg taking the misting inside.

think about that above, the duck sits on her nest and heats them eggs up and she has a wet belly turned hot, she gets up and that cool air hits the eggs and draws out the moisture, like I try to explain to everyone, open your front door in the middle of winter and feel that suck the life out of you, no difference for the egg. And why I try to explain that to people fiddlin with eggs after lockdown, everytime they open the bator they are dragging more of that needed humidity out of the shells when it needs it the most.

 

[Sally Sunshine]

Yes, that is in the refurb GQF. The turner rotates 90 degrees every two hours, eggs are fat end up. I did not manually rotate the eggs in the trays to increase the vascular area (I have done that in the past).

I have another 8 or so eggs developing now that will hatch in a week and a half. I will only be gone 4 days this time.

I have turkey eggs in cool storage, I have them on their side in an egg tray and rotate 90 degrees 3 times a day in the same direction. Storage humidity is 65% and storage temp is 65F.

every two hours at 90 degrees, much more stimulation than hand turning. most people want to do it 3 times a day during incubation not fully understanding that more is so much better, a hen I have read can turn 35-90 times a day, now not in the degrees we do it, but they are still getting joust about.

 

[Sally Sunshine]

I gotta head to bed, I am not as good as Rav stayn up all hours of day and night... I have been feeling pukish all day from that crap food and drink last night, its time I send this body to try to fix itself.

night you two

 

[Ravynscroft]

yes that yellow jelly crap..    and the DIS are not mals? 

at some point you should try to do the warm dip and cooling of the eggs to see if you loose more weight from the heat pulling out of the egg instead of the egg taking the misting inside. 

think about that above, the duck sits on her nest and heats them eggs up and she has a wet belly turned hot, she gets up and that cool air hits the eggs and draws out the moisture, like I try to explain to everyone, open your front door in the middle of winter and feel that suck the life out of you, no difference for the egg.   And why I try to explain that to people fiddlin with eggs after lockdown, everytime they open the bator they are dragging more of that needed humidity out of the shells when it needs it the most.  

Nope, not mals... actually had my first in Calls today, and it even managed to internal pip but drowned due to liquid and position...

But what if the other liquid? Its not jelly, just wet and turns to epoxy in seconds... thought that was meaning too low humidity?

I do open the bator frequently up to lockdown, so cool air does get across the eggs especially when I mist...

And I don't want to go below 20%...