Geese "coop" requirements...

Mine have to go up a big ramp to get into the coop and it really is an issue. They do it, but they don't love it. DH and I are putting some sides on the ramp this weekend and some non-skid bathroom things to help with footing. They tend to jostle one another when I let them out for their morning "jail break."

I have serious preditor issues where I live and so all of mine get locked up in a tight coop at night. It has good ventilation and I've had no health issues.
 
Yes, I might be off on the boxes (and thank you for pointing that out), but off the ground for two reasons...don't want unwanted guests to "move in" under the building. I know someone that was trying to erradicate a rat family from under their peafowl coop. Not good.

Second, so I can see directly behind it. If something is at the back door I will see it's legs...lots of visitors in this neck of the woods. This will be for night time lock down basically and for protection when the weather is bad. We'll have floodlights attached to the back of the building just like the first coop.

But if shorter legs are in order that's an easy fix. I'll lift it 12 inches only, short hop in for the geese and use the gained height inside the coop. Are you thinking six feet is ample overhead space for them... I really do want to get this right...the first time. I appreciate everyone's thoughts as said, I'm a chicken owner only...so far:/. (as far as feathered freinds that is).

OK, so we go with the step instead of a ramp, I'll figure in one six inch step.

And, inside on the floor I'll just keep layer of fresh hay...venting understood. Also, I read somewhere to toss a whole bale in, guess they sit on it.

Finally, do you folks keep water/food in your coop? Or outside. Inside means waterproof floor, correct?

Forgive all the questions, but a twenty year possible lifespan commitment is essential to get it right; we want them happy. Life is (and should be) good:D.
 
I don't put hay in my coop simply because it molds far too easily. I use pine shavings.

Linoleum squares make a very nice floor underneath. I do keep food and water in my coop. I don't put feed in the run (mine free range from sun up to sun down). This helps me coop train them. Mine know that when they go inside at night, I'll come around and fill the feeder with pellets.

I always have water available both inside and out. In the coop I have a large waterer. Outside I have several kiddie pools and three different watering stations (Just big plastic basins) that they can get their whole heads into.

Yes, they do make an unholy mess inside! I dump and replace the shavings once a week.
 
Our geese kind of got a makeshift coop added on to the chicken's... it's where we store all our poultry food in big metal trashcans, which work out great because it keeps the mice out! For bedding we have shavings over the whole floor, and a small pile of hay that they sleep on, in a corner, which we change out every day. Their coop is right on the ground with only a short hop to get in.

Are you getting full grown geese, or babies? For the babies especially a six-inch step might be difficult, they're pretty ungainly climbers. It doesn't take much to keep them happy! Ours love their pool in the run though, just a black pond base type thing from Home Depot, it works great!
 
GD is right about no night lights with geese other wise you will mess up their natural breeding season which runs from mid Feb. -late May here in Michigan.
Geese are seasonal layers not years round like chickens.

6 ft. high ceiling will be fine and I too prefer pine shavings over straw.

If you've only had chickens, you're in for a rude awakening...can we say lots of poop and
lots of water being flinged around?
Their water buckets need to be hung on a hook or they will knock them over. I get those screw in hooks and screw them into the side wall studs.
I use to have feed & water in the goose barn at night but the feed attracted mice (LOTS of them!) and the mess by the water buckets...ugh.
So now the adults go all night with no food and water and they're just fine. You'll have to figure out what works best for you and oh, by the way...geese are worth the mess. They are awesome!
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P.S.
I have a raising waterfowl tips page on my website you might want to check out.
 
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OK, pine shavings it is, with hay in one corner.

The flood lights are to light up the forest behind the coop, for peeks only. I won't leave them on. They won't shine into the coop as there won't be a window in the back, just the entry door. I have the switch in the house...gives me piece of mind that all are safe. Glad we talked about light though, GD, as I was unaware that lights inside the goose coop is a no no. (I already read somewhere that you don't provide heat for geese).

I'd like to add that I've been following your (SM) Africans growing, and your (CR) Sebbies playing in the pool in the middle of winter, nice pics:D I have visited your site a couple of times; nicely done.

Thanks to all of you, what a great group!

ahhh, how big of a mess....I do have a pressure washer.
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Glad to of helped!
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Geese don't need any supplemental heat!
Neither do chickens for that matter.
Even in my previous very spartan chicken coop
they do just fine as long as they are out of the wind
have dry bedding, proper feed and water.
As for waterfowl they have a built in down jackets.
 
How much light bothers geese? I'm glad I'm reading this now too! Our coop is partitioned in 3 places by chicken wire, and the main chicken coop is at one end, with the goose coop probably about 10 ft away at the other end. In the winter we have a light in the chicken coop just to extend daylight hours, it's always out by 8PM, but will that bother the geese? The light is a hanging one on the chicken side of the coop, so there's no direct light on the geese, and it's really not even enough to see well by when you're in the goose part.
 

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