Getting the flock out of here - a diary of a crazy chicken man

[Bens-Hens]

I found a bit of info, this video best explains the rotary type drive. The AC motor (linear or rotary) should not burn out as it should not be powered continuously. You want it to fire up, travel and then stop. Where I was warned off, was getting a fast motor, then slowing it right down where it would then die in a short time of continuous running.

If you used a high torque motor, set to run at slow speed for a short time I would think it would last for a very long time.


Here you can see the linkage and how it works 'like a steam train' Half a circle become your 90 flip. If you are using a digital controller that has a turner output (I am sure most would) then you can set it and forget it.

Something like what this US company provides, is a high torque low rpm (1 - 5 rpm, should fine) they are $23, far cheaper than an actuator alone, let along throwing in the reversing relay I posted above.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#electric-motors/=mlks3m

As for your twin timer single actuator method, I am sure that would work a treat too, a bit of setting up to get right but should work. I just wanted to kick some other option out there.

Do you have an example link or video I can check out?

Cheer Ben

 

[ozexpat]

I found a bit of info, this video best explains the rotary type drive. The AC motor (linear or rotary) should not burn out as it should not be powered continuously. You want it to fire up, travel and then stop. Where I was warned off, was getting a fast motor, then slowing it right down where it would then die in a short time of continuous running.

If you used a high torque motor, set to run at slow speed for a short time I would think it would last for a very long time.


Here you can see the linkage and how it works 'like a steam train' Half a circle become your 90 flip. If you are using a digital controller that has a turner output (I am sure most would) then you can set it and forget it.

Something like what this US company provides, is a high torque low rpm (1 - 5 rpm, should fine) they are $23, far cheaper than an actuator alone, let along throwing in the reversing relay I posted above.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#electric-motors/=mlks3m

As for your twin timer single actuator method, I am sure that would work a treat too, a bit of setting up to get right but should work. I just wanted to kick some other option out there.

Do you have an example link or video I can check out?

Cheer Ben

no example - i just got the idea from an auto coop door idea

if i get it to work I will post a vid. I got an actuator doe 20 bucks used. it works fine - just the timer wiring i need to mess with before i build a turner around it

 

[perchie.girl]

Quote: Another choice to use in this application is a Stepper motor. They are digital and can be controlled by computer. They have a Mechincal interface that is read by a digital reader.

http://www.karlssonrobotics.com/car...00-stepsrev/?gclid=CIjPy5CD_LYCFYN7QgodbQ8A1w

they move in steps that can be translated to degrees or inches depending on your needs. AND they come in a variety of form factors and mounting footprints. Mouser is an excellent source as well as Grainger.... Look in a catalog called Mc Master Carr for all round specifications for them. You can order from Mc Master Carr as well.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#stepper-motors/=mlm5df

Mc Master Carr is the difinitive tool for searching researching and even the occasional purchase of Mechanical components. Click on a part number and you will get a specification ranging from a PDF that shows a wiriging digargram to an Actual CAD drawing for dropping a component into a design so you dont have to draw it again.

Not only that it will give you mounting and interface instructions.

For an application such as this where you may or may not beturning a cam or a Gear and Sprocket linked to a drive chain you may want something that has either a Hex or square shaft. Each is an excellent choice because you dont need to rely on a set screw for mechanical fastening. ONly to keep what ever cam or sprocket you are mounting on the shaft.

By the way Linear actuators can and often do come with Stepper motors included.

deb

 

[perchie.girl]

Quote: external rotating cam locked in a Pillow block. Cam offset by how much you need to move the cabinet up and down Square Key drive shaft and either a stepper motor or even a Barbeque rotissary motor. Set it up with a timer that will turn it on for half a revolution. then off again.

Or instead of timer use limit switches. Single momentary switch that notices that an object has come in contact Momentary because all it does is turn the motor off. Then the timer to turn it back on for the loweing it down action..... Momentary switch Can be the same one actually comes into contact with the lower limit position and it turns the motor off.

Motor only turns one direction power is turned on by a timer and turned off by a limit switch.

deb

 

[Bens-Hens]

Thanks Deb, some great info there.

I only just found the mcmaster site today. I have been having a poke around there this afternoon.

I like the rotary style, as you mentioned, not need for limits or reversing polarity. You have the actuator, it is cheap and works so I am sure it won't be too hard to make it all work. I didn't realize you had already procured it, other wise I would have been more 'shoosh' about the rotary type hahaha.

What heating system are you using for this one? I recall you wanted a self contained, set and forget style.

 

[piglett]

external rotating cam locked in a Pillow block. Cam offset by how much you need to move the cabinet up and down Square Key drive shaft and either a stepper motor or even a Barbeque rotissary motor. Set it up with a timer that will turn it on for half a revolution. then off again.

Or instead of timer use limit switches. Single momentary switch that notices that an object has come in contact Momentary because all it does is turn the motor off. Then the timer to turn it back on for the loweing it down action..... Momentary switch Can be the same one actually comes into contact with the lower limit position and it turns the motor off.

Motor only turns one direction power is turned on by a timer and turned off by a limit switch.

deb

let me jump in here folks
i like things simple so how about this
you get 2 switches like you would have for a fridge door
you know the little thing that turns the light on & off when the door is opened
ok so you have 2 of these mounted on the bottom of you bator cabinet
& you have a turner like the one Bens-Hend posted on the youtube vid
all you need is a little rod on either side that will contact the two switches
once the turner moves the rod enough the fridge switch shuts the turner motor off
the rod could be made out of most anthing even scrap wood
& i'm sure someone clever will tell us how to power the turner for the next cycle

piglett

 

[el pollo rey]

when i can't find something i say....."well i guess i don't own one"
so i go buy another one, then day or even weeks later i find the 1st one
then i have 2 that i see if i can not find the next time

. Man that sounds like me

 

[el pollo rey]

let me jump in here folks
i like things simple so how about this
you get 2 switches like you would have for a fridge door
you know the little thing that turns the light on & off when the door is opened
ok so you have 2 of these mounted on the bottom of you bator cabinet
& you have a turner like the one Bens-Hend posted on the youtube vid
all you need is a little rod on either side that will contact the two switches
once the turner moves the rod enough the fridge switch shuts the turner motor off
the rod could be made out of most anthing even scrap wood
& i'm sure someone clever will tell us how to power the turner for the next cycle

piglett

. Omron 120 v limit switches they are sealed and cheap about ten bucks each ,,, just sayin

 

[perchie.girl]

Quote: You are describing limit switches. The term is for what it does not what it is. What it is is a simple momentary switch Just like the refrigerator light switch Push on it and it turns the power off. let it go and its on. The deal is when the tray is level they will both be on.

It has to be wired like a hall way switch. you know where you can turn the light on or off at each end of the hall.

So now you have the problem of the turner action. you wire the turner or plug the turner into an outlet that is controlled by a timer. Timer is always going but will turn the motor on at specific times for a given amount of time.... say just a tad bit longer than it takes to tip the tray to the Refrigerator light switch. Refrigerator light switch turns the power off to the motor.

I am not a sparky I am a gear head so as I read all this I get stumped by working out how to power both the timer and the rotisserie.

There is also another way rather than putting the switches on the bottom you can put a single one on the edge. if you actually get a switch designed to be used for limits they have a roller on them. The roller keeps the swich from being abraded by moving equipment. Then you put two screws on the tray to act as the thumb that pushes the switch Ont in the up position one in the down position.

There are a bunch of sites for wiriing them up depending on the action you need to have happen. I used to use my Machinerys Handbook. But sadly its packed away with all my drafting and design gear at my house sixty miles away.

deb

 

[perchie.girl]

. Omron 120 v limit switches they are sealed and cheap about ten bucks each ,,, just sayin

Yep.... And they come in paddle style, roller style, roller and paddle, compression, extension..... Mc Master is a great place to set them side by side to look at the actions and wiring diagrams.

deb