Hello from New York!

Hello and welcome to BYC! :frow Glad you joined.


Raccoons, coyote, fox, black bears, bob cats, Fisher cats, weasels, stray dogs.
I contain my layer only flock behind poultry netting powered with a 10,000 volt charger. That has thus far kept out all ground predators.
The pen has a very large quince bush in it as well as a very large run with a solid roof. The bird area of the coop is 12x8 with 25' of linear roost space centered over 2' wide poop boards. The run is 28'x12' with two 8x4 annexes attached. Then entire thing basically one big coop so I have easily kept as many as 30 birds in it as I never close the pop door to the run.
I recommend having this type of setup for winter months as getting snow like this will be an issue for them to get around in:View attachment 2870206

It's a non-issue.

I have never raised meat birds but plan to some day when I finally locate this illusive "free time" I hear people talking about...
I would recommend a tractor to keep your meat birds in. Something that you can move around the property every few days to keep the incredible amount of poop they produce spread out. It could also be kept behind a length of poultry netting to keep them safe until ready to process.

PBRs are a good choice as are Black Australorps and Wyandottes. I like to have birds with smaller combs as the breeds with large combs are prone to frostbite. I had plans to process older birds and raise replacement pullets each year. That will never happen! I've become far too attached to my birds, especially the originals.
Most people would recommend processing older hens when they go into their second or third molt. They would have to be stew birds or some other form of slow cooking as their meat would be tough at their age. There are plenty of good folks that can help you with those specifics in the meat bird forum!

LGDs would be most useful during the day, not at night. At night, birds need to be secured in a predator proof enclosure. Something with excellent ventilation and no openings larger than 1/2". NO CHICKEN WIRE!! It is NOT predator proof. Well secured (with heavy duty poultry staples or screws with fender washers) 1/2" hardware cloth is the way to go.
Thank you SO much this is so very helpful!
 
So glad you joined, Stephanie! :welcome
I don't know much about how to protect chickens in NY, and i don't do meat birds, so i can't help there.
But, egg laying hens, depending on the breed and diet, normally starts laying around 18-30 weeks of age. They normally stop laying when they're around 3-5 years old. As for dogs being guardians, most any breed can do it if trained correctly, but your typical Great Pyrenees or Pyratonlian (Anatolian/Great Pyrenees mix) does great.
Thank you for your very helpful response!
 
Hi Stephanie and welcome to BYC :frow We're so happy you've decided to join us:ya

For the CX birds, I use an 8X8X2 structure that I move daily. 3 weeks in the brooder, 35 days on grass. I feed an 18% protein from start to finish. This size can support 40 birds. I cover 3/4 of the top with tin and use hardware cloth everywhere else. I also put 2-3 strands of hot wire around the base and power it with a small solar energizer. I feed them what they can consume in 45 minutes twice per day. I've had my best success with McMurray hatchery jumbo Cornish cross. Average dress weight was about 6 pounds.

Make sure to put eyebolts on all four sides, so you can easily move the shelter in any direction.
 
:welcome :frow You have been given some good advice. I don't live in NY but we have a lot of predators here as well. Lots of lessons learned the hard way. I have electric wires around my coops and pens. I don't free range anymore due to losses from predators in the past but I have nice large pens for my birds. My land is mostly open pasture. I also have good heavy duty netting covering my pens for protection from aerial predators and concrete under the gates due to a fox digging under one and killing several birds. I have a good heavy duty fence charger that puts out 10.000+ volts so anything that touches the hot wires will hurt but that is the idea. I want them to hurt so they will get the message that whatever is on the other side isn't worth getting zapped for. I believe that once a predator has tested the hot wires they teach their young that whatever is on the other side isn't worth getting zapped for. I have seen attempted digs along my fences but once they come in contact with the hot wires they immediately abort the attempt. You will find a lot of good information here BYCArticles.jpg Good luck and have fun...
http://www.sagehenfarmlodi.com/chooks/chooks.html
 
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