Help! Hen found with collapsed egg hanging from her vent!

I would focus on getting her hydrated, then eating.
It would be good to give her some extra calcium for about 3 days. You can give 1/2 tablet Caltrate or a Tums.
When they have a membrane like that sometimes the contents spill into the oviduct and makes them feel bad. Did you notice if there was any yolk or white leaking from her vent when you pulled that out?
Yes, there was egg white all down her vent features witch I wiped off. I didn't see any yolk clearly, but I there may have been some hanging down her vent feathers as well. She seems to be drinking on her own, but I will watch her and make sure she is staying hydrated. I have "Tums" but they aren't real Tums brand, but I will post some picks so you might be able to tell me if they'll work? Thanks so much!
 
Buy a bottle of calcium citrate with vitamin D3 and keep it in the run or coop. I've been urging all chicken keepers to do this. Oyster shell (calcium carbonate) is fine for hens that are normally laying good quality eggs, as it will be absorbed by most and balances their need for calcium. And Tums calcium carbonate based antacid will work in a pinch, but calcium citrate is the easiest form of calcium to absorb.

The bottle of calcium citrate comes in handy when you have a hen suddenly show signs of reproductive distress as your hen has. The concentrated calcium will work on different levels to get a hen through a reproductive crisis and it will help to regulate the laying cycle to prevent chronic problems. This is not to be used long term, just in a reproductive crisis until its resolved.

I keep a flock of chickens aged new to very old. Old, retired layers often have reproductive issues, and I've learned a lot from dealing with them. In particular, an eleven-year old Wyandotte hen named Lilith who has never completely given up the notion she can still lay eggs and not expect it to turn into a disaster.

What I've learned is that if you see a collapsed egg hanging from the vent, there is often more material inside. Sometimes that "material" is an entire second egg. Releasing two eggs per egg cycle can happen to any aged hen, including new layers. What happens is there is usually not enough calcium in the shell gland for two eggs and one egg is shell-less. These are very difficult to pass and often collapse, causing a disastrous "traffic jam".

Giving a concentrated calcium tablet at the very first indication of trouble helps generate strong contractions to expel the backed up egg material. Continuing to give a calcium tablet each day until eggs return to normal quality will also help regulate the egg cycle to return it to just a single egg per cycle.

Keeping the calcium citrate on hand in the run means you can grab it fast, get the hen started on it fast, and get the problem resolved before any broken material begins to inflame the oviduct and cause infection that could kill the hen or render her sterile.

At the first sign of a fluffed up hen, tail held low and flat, perhaps a watery discharge running out of the vent, a calcium tablet can speed up the process of clearing the obstruction and getting a hen back to normal before the event does so much damage you end up having to euthanize.

If I see a hen has spent a couple of hours in a nest, straining, not producing anything, she immediately gets a calcium tablet. Often, that will do the trick, the contractions are strengthened, and out comes the egg. I've learned not to be surprised when it's followed by a shell-less egg. It happens more often than most people think. Two years ago, I had a "middle-aged" hen consistently plagued by two eggs each egg cycle. It took over a month of daily calcium citrate to get her cycle regulated to just one egg per cycle. She's been laying normally ever since.
 
Buy a bottle of calcium citrate with vitamin D3 and keep it in the run or coop. I've been urging all chicken keepers to do this. Oyster shell (calcium carbonate) is fine for hens that are normally laying good quality eggs, as it will be absorbed by most and balances their need for calcium. And Tums calcium carbonate based antacid will work in a pinch, but calcium citrate is the easiest form of calcium to absorb.

The bottle of calcium citrate comes in handy when you have a hen suddenly show signs of reproductive distress as your hen has. The concentrated calcium will work on different levels to get a hen through a reproductive crisis and it will help to regulate the laying cycle to prevent chronic problems. This is not to be used long term, just in a reproductive crisis until its resolved.

I keep a flock of chickens aged new to very old. Old, retired layers often have reproductive issues, and I've learned a lot from dealing with them. In particular, an eleven-year old Wyandotte hen named Lilith who has never completely given up the notion she can still lay eggs and not expect it to turn into a disaster.

What I've learned is that if you see a collapsed egg hanging from the vent, there is often more material inside. Sometimes that "material" is an entire second egg. Releasing two eggs per egg cycle can happen to any aged hen, including new layers. What happens is there is usually not enough calcium in the shell gland for two eggs and one egg is shell-less. These are very difficult to pass and often collapse, causing a disastrous "traffic jam".

Giving a concentrated calcium tablet at the very first indication of trouble helps generate strong contractions to expel the backed up egg material. Continuing to give a calcium tablet each day until eggs return to normal quality will also help regulate the egg cycle to return it to just a single egg per cycle.

Keeping the calcium citrate on hand in the run means you can grab it fast, get the hen started on it fast, and get the problem resolved before any broken material begins to inflame the oviduct and cause infection that could kill the hen or render her sterile.

At the first sign of a fluffed up hen, tail held low and flat, perhaps a watery discharge running out of the vent, a calcium tablet can speed up the process of clearing the obstruction and getting a hen back to normal before the event does so much damage you end up having to euthanize.

If I see a hen has spent a couple of hours in a nest, straining, not producing anything, she immediately gets a calcium tablet. Often, that will do the trick, the contractions are strengthened, and out comes the egg. I've learned not to be surprised when it's followed by a shell-less egg. It happens more often than most people think. Two years ago, I had a "middle-aged" hen consistently plagued by two eggs each egg cycle. It took over a month of daily calcium citrate to get her cycle regulated to just one egg per cycle. She's been laying normally ever since.
Thank you for this! I will look at my Tums now, and see if they have calcium citrate, then I will feed it to her first thing tomorrow! Thank you so much, I really hope that she pulls through! She is my favorite lady, and my only layer right now, I love her, thanks for all the help!
 
She is not doign any better this morning. She was all fluffed up when I went out to check on her, and didn't even come out of her makeshift "nesting box" I allowed her to sleep in. I pull her out to get some water, and she seemed unsteady, and didn't eat or drink. If she doesn't want to eat or drink, who do I feed her the calcium tablet, should I crush it and syringe feed it with some water? She had egg white looking like poops in the bedding this morning. All advice appreciated. Thanks so much!
 
She is feeling rotten because she still has egg material blocking her works. She needs that calcium more than anything. Please, just pop it straight into her beak. It will go down like magic.

Feel the nesting material. Is it very wet? Is it beginning to have a acrid odor? If so, it's a good idea to change it to fresh. I prefer to keep such a hen in an infirmiry crate on thick towels to better absorb the fluids she's losing. It's also much easier to monitor poop and watch for any obstruction material that has been expelled.

It's also easier to set up a reliable water tray attached to the crate door. She needs water badly so she doesn't get dehydrated which can not only make her situation worse, but it can weaken and kill her.
 
She is feeling rotten because she still has egg material blocking her works. She needs that calcium more than anything. Please, just pop it straight into her beak. It will go down like magic.

Feel the nesting material. Is it very wet? Is it beginning to have a acrid odor? If so, it's a good idea to change it to fresh. I prefer to keep such a hen in an infirmiry crate on thick towels to better absorb the fluids she's losing. It's also much easier to monitor poop and watch for any obstruction material that has been expelled.

It's also easier to set up a reliable water tray attached to the crate door. She needs water badly so she doesn't get dehydrated which can not only make her situation worse, but it can weaken and kill her.
Thank you! I will go out and give her the calcium right now! I will put a towel in her box, she was put and walking around when I gave to flock treats looking at me like, "why can't I be out there" So that is good. I will put the water close to her box and make sure she is getting fluids. Thank you so much for the help!
 
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If you did put her outside, what would she do - stay still and lay around or join in the flock activities.
She would probably hang out with everyone else. We have her, and 4 other hens with our ducks because the flock mates, and rooster pick on them, so all the hens with her are really sweet, and standing outside her pen within the coop waiting for her to be released. I separated her so I could keep a good watch on her, poop, eating /drinking habits, and stuff like that.
 

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