Help! I'm looking for a dog breed that....

What should be expected as a 'good' wind down time?

Is it normal for a dog to have one problem area (e.g. ears) that they won't want touched without a medical reason (e.g. ear infection or the like, something that makes that area hurt) or should they be fine having everything touched?

Are you allowed to do things like walk the dog, have the dog visit with other dogs, etc, when meeting them? What if they're in a foster home and not being housed at a shelter?

1.) I would expect the dog to forget about the toy within a minute or two if you "change the subject".

2.) If the dog HAS a chronic ear infection, or had one that went untreated for years, they may be sensitive. Otherwise, that's just bad socialization. Unless the dog had a really bad ear infection I would expect the dog to at least tolerate having the pinna of the ear touched.

3.) Depends on the place. Most shelter shelters will have a meeting area outdoors or indoors. A foster home will usually let you visit and ask questions if you are a serious contender.
 
Agreed. Also, some more common shelter/rescue language for the ones trying to sugar-coat:

"Would do best in a home with someone who works from home and wants a best friend forever!" = Separation anxiety (varying levels; some it's just whining and pacing, some will bark the whole time you're gone, some will destroy the house). OR incontinent if they're old...
I've been skipping those anyway because literally nobody works from home for us, and it's not an option.
"Would do best as an only fur-child" - nervous around other dogs or downright dog aggressive.
Could it also mean cat aggressive or generally just dogs?
"Would do best in a home where they are the only child (aka no kids)" - Either aggressive in some (or all) circumstances or fragile to some extent.

"Women are his/her favorite" - Abused by men, scared of men, or aggressive towards men.
That one makes sense
Needs experienced owner" - Not trained, destructive behaviors, aggression, or etc.

"Needs a well fenced in yard" - Either a standard requirement or the dog is an escape artist.

"Needs time to warm up / needs lots of love" - Abused, fear-aggressive, or nervous about new things, not socialized well.

"Needs alone time" - Antisocial, potentially aggressive, very shy, or etc.

"Cannot be adopted out by someone with kids, dogs, etc" - Probably bit someone/something or almost did.

"Needs a firm hand" - Doesn't listen, isn't biddable.

"Gets very excited on walks!" - Strong puller, will drag you down the road.
"Gets very excited to see other dogs!" - Potentially lunges at other dogs (might not be aggression).

"Does not appreciate dogs in his/her face" - Will snap at other dogs that get in his/her face.

Oh, and if it's a shelter and the dog is the only dog there wearing a shirt (yes, I've seen this) the dog probably either has alopecia, mange, ringworm, allergies, or some other disease causing hair loss or really bad skin.
That makes a lot of sense. What if all the dogs are wearing shirts? (is that a thing?) in theory, would you want to ask to take the shirt off the dog?
If this is a shelter dog, look for hair loss, lumps/bumps, scabs, inflamed skin/red skin, "black dots" (possibly staph, fixable), look at the teeth if you can (a rotten mouth can cost a lot to fix), look for specks, ulcers, or "floating" things in the eye, look at the white of the eye and make sure it's not red (lift the lid).

Ask for heartworm test results if they have them (my dog was heartworm positive, and with my employee discount of at-cost products it still cost $600+ to treat him. However, if you can stomach the cost go for it because these dogs are less likely to be adopted. The dog would be on bed-rest for around 2-3 months though during this treatment).
If the dog has allergies you won't know until after treatment most likely, they will usually throw the dog on Prednisone for a while before the immiticide treatment and this will "hide" allergy symptoms (happened with my dog).

If the dog has had nothing but mandatory shots (think Rabies), take the dog to a vet for a fecal test because they're probably going to have parasites, get a heartworm test, bloodwork would be good to establish a baseline if you can afford it. Definitely the heartworm and fecal test though! Call a few vets too; some will do the first actual "exam" portion for free for rescue pets (aka no exam fee, you'll still have to pay for the testing/meds/etc).

And always, always keep your dog on heartworm prevention and get them heartworm tested regularly (at least at their annual exam). Heartworms are devastating if allowed to progress. Always get your heartworm prevention from a reputable source (I would recommend your vet's office, especially if they are a decent price or price match).

I would like to note that heartworms can take 6 months to show up on a test as they check for adult (breeding) female heartworm antigens. It can't test for male heartworms or microfilaria (baby heartworms) So a dog may show up negative at first but really be positive.
The words 'heartworm' just give me a really gross mental image 😅 Most of the dogs that I've looked at have either said 'completed heartworm medication' or something of the like.

Many of these dogs are in foster homes and not shelters.
 
After reading I'm glad I've read it but am now i n c r e d i b l y stressed out about adopting
Don't be. Know what you're looking for, don't rush, and don't make any rushed decisions and you'll be fine. There are great dogs to be had at shelters. Mine was straight off the streets, but if he was in a shelter his chances would have been pretty bleak considering he was heartworm positive and a pitbull mix. He's a great dog though; he does have a few behavior problems that I personally don't have an issue with. (Strong prey drive and mild dog aggression).
 
1.) I would expect the dog to forget about the toy within a minute or two if you "change the subject".

2.) If the dog HAS a chronic ear infection, or had one that went untreated for years, they may be sensitive. Otherwise, that's just bad socialization. Unless the dog had a really bad ear infection I would expect the dog to at least tolerate having the pinna of the ear touched.
So unless there's a medical issue that would be mentioned already if you asked for medical history, it's a behavioral issue if the dog doesn't want you to touch some part of it?
 
That makes a lot of sense. What if all the dogs are wearing shirts? (is that a thing?) in theory, would you want to ask to take the shirt off the dog?
I would want the shirt off, haha. But if they're all wearing shirts they probably can't all have ringworm.
Could it also mean cat aggressive or generally just dogs?
Generally just dogs, but unless they were cat tested it's difficult to know.

The words 'heartworm' just give me a really gross mental image 😅 Most of the dogs that I've looked at have either said 'completed heartworm medication' or something of the like.
They look like long (possibly feet-long) strands of spaghetti. Terrible creatures.
 
So unless there's a medical issue that would be mentioned already if you asked for medical history, it's a behavioral issue if the dog doesn't want you to touch some part of it?
I would expect the dog to let me touch any part of it without aggression unless there is a medical problem. Pulling away is fine.
 
I would expect the dog to let me touch any part of it without aggression unless there is a medical problem. Pulling away is fine.
Pulling away, shaking head/paw etc, trying to nudge you away with nose, whining, fine?
Snarling, barking, lunging, pulling away and also running away, nipping or other mouthing, bad?
 
Am I correct in thinking that dogs can develop separation anxiety when they move to a new home even when they had no sign of it before? That is what I worry about with shelter dogs that seem fine.
 
Can dogs develop separation anxiety when they move to a new home even when they had no sign of it before? That is what I worry about with shelter dogs that seem fine.
Yes, but usually there are some signs (excessive clingy-ness, screaming and barking when you walk away from the cage, etc). If you find one that's crate trained that can take some of the stress out, just crate them when you leave.

Pulling away, shaking head/paw etc, trying to nudge you away with nose, whining, fine?
Snarling, barking, lunging, pulling away and also running away, nipping or other mouthing, bad?
Yes to all of the above, but I would be concerned about pain if whining or jerking away.
 

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