Help! Introducing new chicken!

[Capto Veritas]

My 2 month Black Australorp pullet has been living in its own coop by its self for 2 weeks now. I have a friend with a chicken farm that will give me a 9 month old Buff Orpington hen, but I don’t know if introducing a chicken to a pullet with a 7 month difference is okay. I have a small tractor supply coop, and I want to have another chicken to keep my other chicken company. Should I do it, or wait longer?

 

[my gang eats grass]

New chicks get introduced into our coop at one to one and a half months. It is best if you do it a night when the chickens are roosting. Your new chick will probably get picked on a little bit at first, but don't take it back out unless it is getting injured. Hope this helps you!

 

[cmom]

Usually it goes better if they are closer to the same age.

 

[aart]

My 2 month Black Australorp pullet has been living in its own coop by its self for 2 weeks now. I have a friend with a chicken farm that will give me a 9 month old Buff Orpington hen, but I don’t know if introducing a chicken to a pullet with a 7 month difference is okay. I have a small tractor supply coop, and I want to have another chicken to keep my other chicken company. Should I do it, or wait longer?

Risk here is bringing another bird in can also bring in pests and disease.
The other issue is the small coop, integration works best with lots of space.

Consider biological/medical quarantine:
BYC Medical Quarantine Article

Here's some tips about....
Integration Basics:
It's all about territory and resources(space/food/water).
Existing birds will almost always attack new ones to defend their resources.
Understanding chicken behaviors is essential to integrating new birds into your flock.

Confine new birds within sight but physically segregated from older/existing birds for several weeks, so they can see and get used to each other but not physically interact.

In adjacent runs, spread scratch grains along the dividing mesh, best if mesh is just big enough for birds to stick their head thru, so they get used to eating together.

The more space, the better. Birds will peck to establish dominance, the pecked bird needs space to get away. As long as there's no copious blood drawn and/or new bird is not trapped/pinned down and beaten unmercilessly, let them work it out. Every time you interfere or remove new birds, they'll have to start the pecking order thing all over again.

Multiple feed/water stations. Dominance issues are most often carried out over sustenance, more stations lessens the frequency of that issue.

Places for the new birds to hide 'out of line of sight'(but not a dead end trap) and/or up and away from any bully birds. Roosts, pallets or boards leaned up against walls or up on concrete blocks, old chairs tables, branches, logs, stumps out in the run can really help. Lots of diversion and places to 'hide' instead of bare wide open run.
Good ideas for hiding places:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/a-cluttered-run.1323792/

 

[cmom]

I agree. When it is time to integrate nighttime is best. Good luck...

 

[Capto Veritas]

New chicks get introduced into our coop at one to one and a half months. It is best if you do it a night when the chickens are roosting. Your new chick will probably get picked on a little bit at first, but don't take it back out unless it is getting injured. Hope this helps you!

Thank you!

 

[Capto Veritas]

Risk here is bringing another bird in can also bring in pests and disease.
The other issue is the small coop, integration works best with lots of space.

Consider biological/medical quarantine:
BYC Medical Quarantine Article

Here's some tips about....
Integration Basics:
It's all about territory and resources(space/food/water).
Existing birds will almost always attack new ones to defend their resources.
Understanding chicken behaviors is essential to integrating new birds into your flock.

Confine new birds within sight but physically segregated from older/existing birds for several weeks, so they can see and get used to each other but not physically interact.

In adjacent runs, spread scratch grains along the dividing mesh, best if mesh is just big enough for birds to stick their head thru, so they get used to eating together.

The more space, the better. Birds will peck to establish dominance, the pecked bird needs space to get away. As long as there's no copious blood drawn and/or new bird is not trapped/pinned down and beaten unmercilessly, let them work it out. Every time you interfere or remove new birds, they'll have to start the pecking order thing all over again.

Multiple feed/water stations. Dominance issues are most often carried out over sustenance, more stations lessens the frequency of that issue.

Places for the new birds to hide 'out of line of sight'(but not a dead end trap) and/or up and away from any bully birds. Roosts, pallets or boards leaned up against walls or up on concrete blocks, old chairs tables, branches, logs, stumps out in the run can really help. Lots of diversion and places to 'hide' instead of bare wide open run.
Good ideas for hiding places:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/a-cluttered-run.1323792/

Well, I am only having 2 birds. I have a 12 bird feeder and waterer, so there is plenty of resources.

 

[rosemarythyme]

Well, I am only having 2 birds. I have a 12 bird feeder and waterer, so there is plenty of resources.

It doesn't matter how many birds a feeder is designed to feed, if it's a single unit, there may be some guarding.

With 2 birds this may or may not be an issue, but if it is a problem, be ready to add an additional feeder. It doesn't need to be large, even a small bowl will do.

 

[Capto Veritas]

It doesn't matter how many birds a feeder is designed to feed, if it's a single unit, there may be some guarding.

With 2 birds this may or may not be an issue, but if it is a problem, be ready to add an additional feeder. It doesn't need to be large, even a small bowl will do.

Okay! Thank you!