Help me with run roofing ideas?

[mowin]

Noted. This is a good point. Do you need less cross bracing of the roof beams if you use metal? This would also save me some $$.

Metal or ploy panels will need the same cross bracing. Your bracing needs to hold the snow load. Both products will hold snow, and making sure the structure will hold is the key. As mentioned, a center beam or two would be a good idea.

 

[21hens-incharge]

Oh the width of the run is closer to 11’ so I will be trimming the 16’ers down quite a bit. I don’t really want overhang to catch the wind. Don’t need it for runoff or anything either, the ground there is really absorbent of rain in summer. It’s reclaimed forest basically. I was actually thinking of putting them flush against the top beams with hurricane ties, not sitting on top. Cutting at angle to fit right in there.

I may be wrong but I think that it comes in 12 foot length as well.

 

[aart]

I am a big fan of roof overhangs.

 

[Ol Grey Mare]

I am a big fan of roof overhangs.

YES!

 

[mcclucker]

I am a big fan of roof overhangs.

Hmm...say more?

 

[aart]

Hmm...say more?

I am a REALLY big fan of LARGE roof overhangs.

....and that includes fly rafters on gable roofs.

Well, on your run, even if the ground does soak stuff up good, better to get runoff as far away as possible. If precipitation is blown by wind, it provides more protection. Added shade, might not apply to your "reclaimed forest".

But on coops is where they really shine. Protects all ventilation, including top hinged windows, open soffits are fantastic for winter ventilation, protects siding, can add shade....plus I like the way they look, a structure without overhangs appears cheap and unfinished, IMO.

See My Coop page, it shows before and after when I added overhangs when reshingling the shed my coop is in.

 

[harveyhorses]

I'm also an overhang fan, the shed I converted has none, and the wind blowing rain makes it impossible to have ventilation on that side of the building, or rain blows in. They used a really cheap stuff that was punctured by a downed tree limb. I'm replacing it this spring.

 

[mcclucker]

Ah, for a coop yes. My coop has overhang. But this run- in the winter I attach tarps to the sides to keep snow out, in summer I want rain to go in to wash it down. I really don’t get mud and there is a lot of shade when those trees leaf out.

I also wonder - if I put the rafters on top there will be a big space between the metal roof and the top beams the rafters sit on. Lots of weasel room. How do I seal that off? Putting the rafters flush seemed to solve that problem for me.

Thanks for this construction help. I am really learning as I go! My husband is even less skilled in this stuff than I am.

 

[mcclucker]

Soffits is what I’m talking about, I gather?

 

[21hens-incharge]

Ah, for a coop yes. My coop has overhang. But this run- in the winter I attach tarps to the sides to keep snow out, in summer I want rain to go in to wash it down. I really don’t get mud and there is a lot of shade when those trees leaf out.

I also wonder - if I put the rafters on top there will be a big space between the metal roof and the top beams the rafters sit on. Lots of weasel room. How do I seal that off? Putting the rafters flush seemed to solve that problem for me.

Thanks for this construction help. I am really learning as I go! My husband is even less skilled in this stuff than I am.

Depending on the gaps locations it may be possible to close off with boards or even wire.
On my metal roof we ran boards between the rafters like this.

https://www.bing.com/images/search?...-Common_purlin_framing.JPG&exph=0&expw=0&vt=0

It reduced the gaps.

If you are talking about the soffit boards can be added there too.