Help my drake won't stand up!!

Ok thank you so much. I saw that elsewhere, I've stopped pellets for all ducks. Hes on antibiotics yes. Its been 3 days, no real improving from it...
 
Try some injectable B for cattle from TSC or your local feed store. He's a little old for niacin deficiency but I don't know anything else to suggest.
Do you have any clue re' mucus? He had brewers yeast until he was 16 weeks, so I didn't think it was the problem...
 
They're not. Sorry just saw that. I have switched the food. They're now getting mixed corn under water with vits and niacin.
I'm not sure if that is really a good diet either. @Isaac 0 knows a lot so hopefully when he sees this he will be able to help you with treatment suggestions. I'm going to give you a link to a very high quality duck feed you can order online, if you live somewhere somewhere you can get this shipped to you I would highly recommend it, it is the feed recommended by my veterinarian

https://www.chewy.com/mazuri-waterfowl-maintenance-duck/dp/248784

If possible, it would be best to switch to this feed, or a similar duck specific feed. You mentioned that you supplemented with brewers yeast until 16 weeks, but ducks need more niacin than chickens for their entire lives so a duck specific feed is ideal.
 
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Simply more than one bird affected suggests the problem is likely to be environmentally, or nutritionally related rather than something such as a tumor, or trauma which would be more likely to be seen in a singular manner.

Inability to walk is suggestive of several conditions, and oftentimes determining the cause is majorly dependent on diagnostic tests, such as radiographs, and blood work done by your local vet; attempts to determine the cause merely on external symptoms often prove inaccurate. Since your vet took a blood sample, that can help determine whether there is a present infection, or high levels of a heavy metal such as zinc, or lead.

Until you receive the results, effort must be put into fulfilling his nutritional needs or his state of health will likely continue to worsen. If he has not eaten for a while, you can expect a decreased metabolic heat output which is adversely affecting his ability to maintain normothermia. In consideration of this, you should keep his pen area warmer than normal to lessen the chance of hypothermia. Compared to other animals, birds have higher metabolic rates which predisposes them to hypoglycemia when in an anorexic state.

If he is drinking, I suggest adding an electrolyte to his water; an electrolyte supplement for humans can be used, or one specifically designed for poultry. If not available, a tad bit of sugar added to the water may suffice. Excess mucous production when attempting to tube feed could be due to improper technique. Tube feeding should be performed using either a red rubber catheter (18 size), or if not available aquarium tubing of the appropriate size, with the tip, melted down to prevent esophageal damage. In addition, one should have a feed formula, preferably a parrot feeding formula, or a high protein game bird feed mix. A scale and a 60mk syringe are also needed. When tube feeding, I prefer to set the bird on the ground and hold them between my legs - extend their neck out completely and insert the lubricated tube into the right side of their mouth all the way to the crop. Here is more additional information in regards to tube feeding.

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https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/tube-feeding-ducks-updated-5-7-2020.1211994/

Tube feeding should always be done with a hydrated warm bird, so if you're unsure if he is drinking enough, start by giving him some warmed electrolyte fluids first and wait till he starts producing droppings. Getting an accurate weight on him before the tubing is needed so the right amount can be given, but continuous daily weighing also suggestive so weight can be monitored.
 
Dear Isaac 0 and everyone else. Sadly my lovely Robin passed away the night before last. I believe the cause to be butolism but blood tests will confirm wether it was lead instead.
I believe I started tube feeding him too late as by then he'd been without food for over 5 days. The mucus wasn't when we fed him but if we picked him after he drank. When we started the tube feeding mucus did stop.
Thanks for the information about the technique, I'm happy at least that it corroborates with what I've been told to do and I had the right equipment. I was extra careful but I didn't know about hypothermia. I didn't keep him extra warm
I'm devastated I couldn't save him. I was just too late to act and the infection had taken a strong hold at that point.
I miss him badly now and keep blaming myself.
Thanks for trying to help us though.
 

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