HELP PLEASE! MY HEN IS SICK!!!

Yes worms can be. A good indication that you may have a problem is weightloss, weak, lethargic, poopy butt feathers, standing all hunched up, this is to keep warm, and because they've not go the energy needed, then weaker, quits eating, and dies...

The reason I say give her Poultry Drench, (It will be where all the feed and supplements are for chickens, chicks) is because it is a nice dose of quickly absorb vitamins. Your girl is in stress, and the vitamins will act quickly to help keep her going while she starts to get back to normal. They've also got some chick probiotic by the sav a chick packets. Pick up some of that too. Her gut is really going to need it. If you can, put her on shavings in the box instead of a towel after you've gotten her cleaned up. Trim away some of the bum feathers too for a bit to keep them clean, or put a bit of olive oil.

Another problem you need to look her over for is mite/lice. They can cause just of much a problem as worms can. You can end up with the same type of thing happening. Personally, I'd rather deal with a mite issue, but since she's lost so much weight, worms. The ivermec will also help with external parasites if there is that present also.

Don't forget to do a second worming 10 days after the first. A lot of people say to use a different wormer for the second treatment to keep the worms from becoming resistant.

About the diet for her... I know you are a vegatarian, so I may go against the grain, but pick up some turkey meat or chicken meat that is ground and natural or lunch meat that is more natural. I personally would get a roll of ground turkey, or Jennie O's cook it up to fine crumbles, and section it up into 4 baggies, freeze 3, and feed a few teaspoons along with her regular mash. Take out a bag as needed, and this way, you don't have any go bad in the fridge. Go with chick starter for her. I'd get the one with medication for cocchi. As she's probably got a weakened stomach, the ampro in the chick starter will keep her from developing that. It also has a high protein count, or gamebird/turkey starter. That has a 24-26% protein. Canned tuna in water, not oil. Spinach, romaine, kale, general field greens salad mix... Since she's not laying at the moment you don't need to worry to much on the calcium, but you do need to give her some grit. Chopped garlic in her salad also will keep her crop healthy also.

Good luck, hope she improves. Just be sure to keep her out of the cold and clean for the next 2 weeks while she gets her weigh back up.
 
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This is a cut and paste from another post of mine

When mine get sick, this is what I do:

  • Thorough exam which includes inserting a gloved, lubed finger into the cloaca to check for an egg, check for cuts, bruising lumps etc.
  • Dust for mites/lice with poultry dust even if I cannot see any. DE does not work.
  • Weigh on digital kitchen scale (see avatar), record weight and weigh daily. any weight loss is bad.
  • Place bird in a warm, quiet place on towel with food and water that it can't drown in.
  • De-worm with Safeguard or Panacur, liquid or paste 50mg/kg by mouth and repeat in 10 days. Warning - Safeguard/Panacur (fenbendazle should not be used during a molt)
  • Once warm, if not drinking, and crop is empty, hydrate with warmed Pedialyte or lactated ringers with a feeding tube - 30ml/kg every 6-8 hours.
  • If not eating after 24 hours and crop is empty, tube feed baby bird food mixed with Pedialyte
  • Inspect poop.
  • If I suspect a stuck egg, treat for egg binding.
  • If I suspect a bacterial infection, treat with antibiotics.

From: http://www.harrisonsbirdfoods.com/avmed/cam/07_emergency_and_critical_care.pdf
Supportive Care
SICK-BIRD ENCLOSURES
Sick birds are often hypothermic and should be placed
in heated (brooder-type) enclosures



b (Fig 7.7) in a quiet
environment (see Chapter 1, Clinical Practice). A temperature
of 85° F (29° C) with 70% humidity is desirable
for most sick birds. If brooders are not equipped with a
humidity source, placing a small dish of water in the
enclosure will often supply adequate humidity. A moist
towel that is heated and placed on the bottom of a cage
or incubator rapidly humidifies the environment, as indicated
by the fogging of the acrylic cage front.

FLUID THERAPY
Oral Administration
Oral administration is the ideal method of giving fluids.
This method is more commonly used in mildly dehydrated
birds or in conjunction with subcutaneous (SC)
or intravenous (IV) therapy. Oral rehydration (30 ml/kg
PO q 6-8 h) also may be used in larger birds (eg, waterfowl)
that are difficult to restrain for parenteral fluid
therapy.



 
I just gave her ivermecton. I will look for some poultry drench. I have some chick starter cause I currently have 10 chicks. I will give her some chick starter. Do you think she would need scrambled eggs for any reason? I have been sprinkling probiotics in her food and apple cider vineger in her water. Please tell me if you know anything else that can help her.
Thanks!
 
Doodle (my sick hen) just died I am soooo upset I loved Doodle. R.I.P.
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