help sick pullet about 4 mths old

When mine get sick, this is what I do:

  • Thorough exam which includes inserting a gloved, lubed finger into the cloaca, check for cuts, bruising lumps etc.
  • Dust for mites/lice with poultry dust even if I cannot see any. DE does not work.
  • Weigh on digital kitchen scale (see avatar), record weight and weigh daily. any weight loss is bad.
  • Place bird in a warm, quiet place on towel with food and water that it can't drown in.
  • De-worm with Safeguard or Panacur, liquid or paste 50mg/kg by mouth and repeat in 10 days.
  • Once warm, if not drinking, and crop is empty, hydrate with warmed Pedialyte or lactated ringers with a feeding tube - 30ml/kg every 6-8 hours.
  • If not eating after 24 hours and crop is empty, tube feed baby bird food mixed with Pedialyte
  • Inspect poop.
  • If I suspect a stuck egg, treat for egg binding.
  • If I suspect a bacterial infection, treat with antibiotics.

From: http://www.harrisonsbirdfoods.com/avmed/cam/07_emergency_and_critical_care.pdf
Supportive Care
SICK-BIRD ENCLOSURES

Sick birds are often hypothermic and should be placed
in heated (brooder-type) enclosures



b (Fig 7.7) in a quiet
environment (see Chapter 1, Clinical Practice). A temperature
of 85° F (29° C) with 70% humidity is desirable
for most sick birds. If brooders are not equipped with a
humidity source, placing a small dish of water in the
enclosure will often supply adequate humidity. A moist
towel that is heated and placed on the bottom of a cage
or incubator rapidly humidifies the environment, as indicated
by the fogging of the acrylic cage front.

FLUID THERAPY
Oral Administration
Oral administration is the ideal method of giving fluids.
This method is more commonly used in mildly dehydrated
birds or in conjunction with subcutaneous (SC)
or intravenous (IV) therapy. Oral rehydration (30 ml/kg
PO q 6-8 h) also may be used in larger birds (eg, waterfowl)
that are difficult to restrain for parenteral fluid
therapy.
 
Is she wobbly, like she is dizzy? That is how mine are. I have moved one to my mud room, the one that is the sickest, I thought she would be dead this morning but no, still hanging in there. I stopped at TSC on my way home to get nutri-drench and ran across some B-12 with K made by rooster booster, they had a lot of different stuff from rooster booster. (oh it is expensive 19.99 a bottle) So I gave the sickest one straight in the beak, she liked it (it smells good) The other one who isn't as sick, fought me when I was giving it to her. So I put a little in the water and made some oatmeal. I am just keeping an eye on it. If it works I will let you know.
 
Is she wobbly, like she is dizzy? That is how mine are. I have moved one to my mud room, the one that is the sickest, I thought she would be dead this morning but no, still hanging in there. I stopped at TSC on my way home to get nutri-drench and ran across some B-12 with K made by rooster booster, they had a lot of different stuff from rooster booster. (oh it is expensive 19.99 a bottle) So I gave the sickest one straight in the beak, she liked it (it smells good) The other one who isn't as sick, fought me when I was giving it to her. So I put a little in the water and made some oatmeal. I am just keeping an eye on it. If it works I will let you know.
not wobbly like dizzy just with her head hanging down she seems to be of balanced but she ate some scrabbled eggs and yogurt and is drink some vita water but i have to hold her head up so she can
 
I'm very sorry. I have gone through this myself and it is sad when we can't help them overcome sickness. There are nine species of Coccidiosis. Some seem to come on quickly. What Amprolium couldn't stop in the past, I've beat it with Sulfadimethoxine if caught early enough. I really hoped that would have worked for you. When a bird gets to the point where it won't drink or eat the situation becomes more difficult to overcome.

I have a routine I've followed for a long time now, which helps me identify problems early. Upon feeding,watering, and letting my birds out of the coop in the morning, I use a high powered flashlight and dog pooper scooper with one of those fine rake attachments. I inspect droppings on the floor under the roosts with the flashlight as I clean it up. It doesn't take long and I also have time to observe behavior and appearance (who's active and eating, etc).
 
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I'm very sorry. I have gone through this myself and it is sad when we can't help them overcome sickness. There are nine species of Coccidiosis. Some seem to come on quickly. What Amprolium couldn't stop in the past, I've beat it with Sulfadimethoxine if caught early enough. I really hoped that would have worked for you. When a bird gets to the point where it won't drink or eat the situation becomes more difficult to overcome.
Tube feeding fuids/food and oral dosing of medication are how I deal with it. A vet told me it's *usually* the dehydration that kills them, not the disease. Of course this is not always true.

I have a routine I've followed for a long time now, which helps me identify problems early. Upon feeding,watering, and letting my birds out of the coop in the morning, I use a high powered flashlight and dog pooper scooper with one of those fine rake attachments. I inspect droppings on the floor under the roosts with the flashlight as I clean it up. It doesn't take long and I also have time to observe behavior and appearance (who's active and eating, etc).
This is the sort of thing I do with my peafowl and turkeys (too many chickens/ducks). If we so this sort of thing, often we will notice the onset of symptoms and will be able to treat sooner.
 
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