Heritage Large Fowl - Phase II

One thing that I have found is that the hotter temperatures are not required. I want them to have access to 95 degrees for the first few days, and then 90 for a few days, at least. The idea is that I do not want to shock them and transition gradually.

Again, if they have access to the heat, and can get away from the heat, they find their own comfort zone.

Another observation is that though they do fine at cooler temps once they adjust, they grow out better and faster at closer to the warmer recommended temperatures. I assume that is because they are using less energy to stay warm.

I hope no one carries it too far too an extreme or they will find smothered birds in the morning where they were trying to stay warm in a corner.

So my conclusion is make sure they have access to the heat that they need, and make sure they can get away from it. They are tougher than we give them credit for, but we want them to grow out as well as they can.
The higher temps are not so much a matter of survival, but optimum growing conditions. I see these numbers as heat that they have access to more than I see it as heat they have to have all of the time.
 
One thing that I have found is that the hotter temperatures are not required. I want them to have access to 95 degrees for the first few days, and then 90 for a few days, at least. The idea is that I do not want to shock them and transition gradually.

Again, if they have access to the heat, and can get away from the heat, they find their own comfort zone.

Another observation is that though they do fine at cooler temps once they adjust, they grow out better and faster at closer to the warmer recommended temperatures. I assume that is because they are using less energy to stay warm.

I hope no one carries it too far too an extreme or they will find smothered birds in the morning where they were trying to stay warm in a corner.

So my conclusion is make sure they have access to the heat that they need, and make sure they can get away from it. They are tougher than we give them credit for, but we want them to grow out as well as they can.
The higher temps are not so much a matter of survival, but optimum growing conditions. I see these numbers as heat that they have access to more than I see it as heat they have to have all of the time.

That's what I like about the flat bed warmers - they make it easier for the chicks to get away from the heat compared to using the bulb which warms the air in a larger area. I was very surprised to find our chicks doing without heat so early - but once they began using the warmers for perches and not for warmth, I took the heaters out and the chicks did terrific. Very pleased this year with how they have done.
 
That's what I like about the flat bed warmers - they make it easier for the chicks to get away from the heat compared to using the bulb which warms the air in a larger area. I was very surprised to find our chicks doing without heat so early - but once they began using the warmers for perches and not for warmth, I took the heaters out and the chicks did terrific. Very pleased this year with how they have done.

This is what I have observed too. The chicks seem to grow as well as they do when raised by a Broody.

The plate from Premier is not as expensive.
 
One thing to consider with the heat lamps is the type of heat that it puts out. It is a radiant heat that heats the objects before the space. 250 is a lot for a small brooder. Stick your hand under it and it will heat up hotter than the air around it.
Hi George,
I didn't know this. It changes everything with a small brooder.
Getting the100 watts tomorrow.
Thanks,
Karen
 
This is what I have observed too. The chicks seem to grow as well as they do when raised by a Broody.

The plate from Premier is not as expensive.

Ah yes, I saw that when I got the spring catalog. Unfortunately they didn't have them a couple years ago when I got the other ones. Really have liked the other stuff I've gotten from Premier so will probably try out their warmer also at some point.
 
Ah yes, I saw that when I got the spring catalog. Unfortunately they didn't have them a couple years ago when I got the other ones. Really have liked the other stuff I've gotten from Premier so will probably try out their warmer also at some point.
Me too. I have two Eco glow 20 brooder plates.

They have been working well for me.
 
While we are talking about incubators. I have my first broody LF Brahma. She's a buff that's about 12 to 14 months old. I only gave her six eggs with six days left. Would of given her more eggs but I wanted her to have her own eggs and from that batch only six were there. If all goes well I will give her some light Brahma eggs to hatch, if she goes bloody again this season. Just don't trust a first timer with them since I'm all ready behind on lights for this season.
 
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Hi,
Feather sexed the chicks today. Looks like Tux ex May ( inbred) are 3 cockerels and 2 pullets.
Knight and Day ex Sweetie (outcross) are 5 pullets and one cockerel.

Anyone know a good way to mark the cockerels? I was thinking a bit of color on the down
for now, but worried the other chicks wll peck at them.
Best,
Karen
 
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Hi,
Feather sexed the chicks today. Looks like Tux ex May ( inbred) are 3 cockerels and 2 pullets.
Knight and Day ex Sweetie (outcross) are 5 pullets and one cockerel.

Anyone know a good way to mark the cockerels? I was thinking a bit of color on the down
for now, but worried the other chicks wll peck at them.
Best,
Karen

I use zip ties until they are bigger and then switch to plastic bands. The zip ties always fall off after a couple of months here. It must be the dry hot weather.

We broke a record for the day yesterday--105.
 
Hi,
Feather sexed the chicks today. Looks like Tux ex May ( inbred) are 3 cockerels and 2 pullets.
Knight and Day ex Sweetie (outcross) are 5 pullets and one cockerel.

Anyone know a good way to mark the cockerels? I was thinking a bit of color on the down
for now, but worried the other chicks wll peck at them.
Best,
Karen

Wing tags.
 

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