Heritage Large Fowl - Phase II

My pullets are laying; a few hens are laying, but not the slackers.

So you have no lights right now Scott??

Coop is 6 x 8, with light ( w/ shade) at a roof corner. Tends to be pointed down rather than directly on to the hens and cocks. THink it is a 60 watt. Before the time change it went on at 4 and off after day light and on at dusk / off at 8. Of course the girls are heading into the coop at dusk so I"m not sure if the cue from the sun superceeds the extra light. THey sit under the light until lights off. ( I didn't change the timer since the time change.) I have read over and over that light only needs to be enough to read a newspaper---


I often wonder if the light is not directly on the heads of the hens. THe girls can sit on roosts behind each other or below the popular roost.

I often think I need to change to a string of lights like white Christmas lights.
Arielle

My coops (I have 3) are each 6x8 and might light points down as well. 40w bulb and will be turning them on this weekend. I DO NOT add light in the evening for fear the birds will not roost before the light goes out. If your lights come on at 4am and you add light in the evening as well, I'm thinking you might have too much light....try using the AM light only and see what your results are
 
Up for discussion...

I would really like a Woods style chicken coop but I don't think it would be feasible for my situation. This is what I have come up with... if I'm ever able to get my custom coops built. Speaking of custom, if there's something I have not thought of (outside of the basic necessities) please chime in. Dragon Lady, would one of your double walled nesting boxes work with this situation? I'm thinking I would put it up high as my birds are constantly looking at the roof of my current "barn" and wondering if they can get any higher. If I could make a cozy place for them to sleep and still have lots of ventilation without risking frost bite, that's what I will do.

First up: The western exposure. We get lots of wind here coming from every direction except east and yet occasionally, it comes from the east too. So, ventilation at the floor level on the west side.



Each of the windows in the building will have covers available.


Next up: Eastern exposure. We only get 5 inches of precipitation here per year so having the roof open this way will not present any moisture issues. It dries quickly when it does rain/snow.


I plan to have a deep litter set up so the air coming in would sweep over the litter, keeping it dry and go up and out the roof vent on the eastern side. This should provide a warm pocket at the top of the western wall, especially if I can put some kind of box for them to snuggle together up there. Of course that would mean building ramps as a means to get way up there. Not a problem.



Anybody have any comments? suggestions? I'm all ears.
I'm half way in to the construciton of a woods style-- if you are considering this sturucture, which really good, why not a woods style instead???

As for expenses, I was able to gather most of the materials second hand. That took longer than the construction.Much longer,lol. Windows from home owners; plywood from a box company; crate walls from box company. THe roof joists and some wall supports are new/purchased wood. ANd the box of screws! And extra time to fit the peices togethe like a jig saw.

ON the above structure you could add another section, then leave the roof tight, and let moisture in from a very large window. YOu are already so close to a wood style.
 
Here are some photos of the double walled Suncast storage boxes I use for babies, and trios.Do not use the single walled ones. They sag, and don't retain heat. I use the 32 cubic foot boxes. You can keep boys' combs from freezing with a 40 w. bulb, and keep babies warm enough to go out at 4 weeks with a 100W. bulb in the winter.We built bases that are enclosed on the back and sides. The birds love to dust under them in the heat. All my runs are covered, so I pop the lids on these boxes in the summer, to let hot air out. These are easy to clean too. My husband cut poop doors in them. In a very cold climate you can add a door curtain.

I grab these boxes every time they go on sale. Makes my husband very nervous,as he envisions MORE runs, but you can't build anything like these for $175.




I leave the right hand door open most of the year.. The board below helps contain the wheat straw I bed with.Both doors open for easy clean out.




Poop door and ramp . The boxes are 30" above the ground. This box has a 2 step roost in it. I no longer use those in the boxes. The Orps prefer to just snuggle as babies, but transition well to the big coop sleeping roost that has multiple perches.




Baby run under construction, just before it was roofed.

 
Jeff,
Congrats on both of those gifts! I would not mind getting either or both, myself. Love Percherons. It's costlier to have them trimmed/shod ...but they are so nice to be around...ride and drive fine too...gentle giants. Most Percherons are black but I have seen an occasional grey. Make sure your fencing is solid...you'd be surpised what they can do with just leaning and rubbing...I've had a 'warped' fence or 2
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LOL! Belgians are the same way. My grandfather had a Belgian named Junior who used to kick the door out of his stall to go walkabout. They would up having to run a chain across the door to keep him in (and these are big broodmare stalls.)

Scroll down to see a photo of Junior back in the day: http://www.pathfindersfarm.com/BKF.html
 
Here are some photos of the double walled Suncast storage boxes I use for babies, and trios.Do not use the single walled ones. They sag, and don't retain heat. I use the 32 cubic foot boxes. You can keep boys' combs from freezing with a 40 w. bulb, and keep babies warm enough to go out at 4 weeks with a 100W. bulb in the winter.We built bases that are enclosed on the back and sides. The birds love to dust under them in the heat. All my runs are covered, so I pop the lids on these boxes in the summer, to let hot air out. These are easy to clean too. My husband cut poop doors in them. In a very cold climate you can add a door curtain.

I grab these boxes every time they go on sale. Makes my husband very nervous,as he envisions MORE runs, but you can't build anything like these for $175.




I leave the right hand door open most of the year.. The board below helps contain the wheat straw I bed with.Both doors open for easy clean out.




Poop door and ramp . The boxes are 30" above the ground. This box has a 2 step roost in it. I no longer use those in the boxes. The Orps prefer to just snuggle as babies, but transition well to the big coop sleeping roost that has multiple perches.




Baby run under construction, just before it was roofed.

Love your set up for the chicks!!
 
Lacy BLues-- I'm sure you know this, but just in case: the deep litter is very deep about 12+ inches, so the large vent at the floor level will need to be set 12 inches or more off the ground. I like your idea of large venting windows on each side-- I would consider making appropirate sized covers to use as needed.
 
I will use my GQF 1588's to hatch.
That should work well for you. The dickey has a hatching tray on the bottom but not sure how well it would work since the humidity for hatching needs to be higher. I also like the fact that my Dickey is always clean since I don't hatch in it.
 
Gosh a good Langshan is a lovely thing, and I have to admit, I like them best in black.


I have to agree but the white are pretty stunning too. This is my first group and I just fell in love with them. Love those big birds. Need to acquire better foundation stock though. Still learning.

Looking forward to adding those lovely white Dorkings and Underwood RC RiR to the farm. Then it's time to roll up the sleeves and really work with what I've got...and resist the temptation to add more.

Matt, that pullet is, well, there are no words...:drool
 
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