How do you attach wall framing to a wood foundation?

Discussion in 'Coop & Run - Design, Construction, & Maintenance' started by JanetSmithery, Jun 25, 2010.

  1. JanetSmithery

    JanetSmithery Out Of The Brooder

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    May 11, 2010
    Eugene, OR
    Lest this question appear idiotic, please know that you're dealing with a construction idiot. I've never built anything before. This website's been great, but I've gotten to another place where I need to ask for advice.

    I've got my foundation laid, and tomorrow, I should have the wall framing done. I'm a bit stumped as to how to put the pieces together, though. I'll be attaching a Douglas fir 2x4 to a pressure treated 4x4. I'm tempted to use a lot of 2 inch deck screws (screwing through the 2 inch side of the 2x4 into the 4x4. I think it should sink about 1/2 inch into the 4x4) because I have a lot of 2 inch deck screws. I don't know if that will be stable enough, though.

    Any ideas?

    If you need an image, I'm basically doing the same thing foundation/framing wise as this coop.
     
  2. mrkep

    mrkep Chillin' With My Peeps

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    Mar 10, 2010
    Richwood , Ohio
    Hi Janet,
    You have the right idea, but I would use longer screws, at least 2 1/2". If you can find stainless steel screws to go into the treated lumber, they will last longer, although that is a recent recommendation by the screw manufacturers. SS screws are real pricey!The first wall will be shakey, then when you erect the second wall and fasten the 2 together, it will be more stable. Be sure to use a level to plumb the walls as you go.Good luck, be sure to post pics when you are done.
    mrkep
     
  3. Bear Foot Farm

    Bear Foot Farm Overrun With Chickens

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    Grifton NC
    I'd use either 3 inch "deck" screws or 16 penny nails
    2 inch will not hold
     
  4. mgw

    mgw Chillin' With My Peeps

    May 29, 2010
    Eastern Wa.
    I take it you are going to frame the wall laying on the ground then tilt it up on the 4x4 foundation right? Are you going to frame the walls with 2" screws also, I dont think they will be long enough. Better to use 2.5" min. drill pilot holes between studs and get screws started while it is laying on ground that way you can quickly screw them intothe 4x4 when you stand it up. I hope i dont sound like some kind of know it all just trying to help. Hope all goes well tommorow, we would enjoy reading A update tommorow nite.
     
  5. MakNugget

    MakNugget Chillin' With My Peeps

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    May 31, 2010
    Portland, OR
    3" deck screws for adhering 2x4s to 4x4s. If you plan on using screws for your walls, there is one caveat; screws don't stand up too well against shearing, so you may use nails as reinforcement in some areas and use nails for joists if possible. Also, when you put one wall up, screw in temp support braces to protect it from side to side motions. You can screw a 2x4 starting at the top corner and run diagonally on one side of the wall and screw into the 2x4s.
     
  6. rocketdoctor

    rocketdoctor Out Of The Brooder

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    May 10, 2010
    when using screws for any construction I love the deckmates they are pricey but not as mush as SS. You can use phillip tip screw driver for them but they come with a special tip that works even better. The great thing about these is they never strip on install or removal later.
     
  7. JanetSmithery

    JanetSmithery Out Of The Brooder

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    May 11, 2010
    Eugene, OR
    Ugh...framing is...inordinately long. I helped my dad frame buildings before (basically acting as a human brace), and for something shed-sized, we'd have the walls framed in a matter of hours. Today a friend and I labored for about 6 hours and only got 1 and 1/2 walls done. There is not a single space on my property big enough to lay down a 7 foot by 10 foot wall and have space to drill...and that was what I built today. LOTS of moving and shifting little pieces. Ugh, I say. Ugh.

    We are now using 3 inch screws to attach the walls to the foundation, and we're using the 3 inch deck screws to frame, too. Probably a little overkill on the framing, but it's pretty tight. When we get ready to attach them to the foundation, we'll use some temporary bracing, and we'll use a couple nails here and there to help with the shearing. Thanks for the advice, everyone!
     
  8. woodguy

    woodguy Out Of The Brooder

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    May 2, 2010
    Bushwood
    The framing on the coop in the link you posted has the studs attached directly to the 4X4 foundation. This is very similar to what I did on my coop/run. Check it out... https://www.backyardchickens.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=354892 I used no screws for any of the framing as I toe nailed all of the studs to the 4X4 base or bottom plate as it is called when framing a wall. I predrilled every nail hole, to prevent splitting and to speed up the process, using a cordless drill and a drill bit slightly smaller than the nails I used which were galvanized 12 penny common nails. A 12 penny nail is plenty big enough...sometimes I even use a 10 penny nail...16 penny nails are too big and are really only neccessary when nailing through a 2X4 plate into the end of another 2X4 stud. When toe nailing a stud to a plate or in your case the 4X4, I use 4 nails...2 on each long side of the 2X4, driven in at roughly a 55 degree angle starting in about 1 1/4" from the end of the stud. This gives you a very strong joint. Also when I do this I would start the first nail with the stud a bit away from the square guide line drawn on the plate. As you get closer to driving the nail in to it's "finished" location the stud will move towards the line. If it goes past the line a little bit do not worry because when you drive the nails in the opposite side the stud will go back to being in the correct location on the guide line. Even after all four nails are driven and the stud is not perfectly square to the plate you can drive any of the nailed areas and it will move to your desired location on the plate. Also when toe nailing the nails do not neccessarily have to be driven all the way up tight against the 2X4. You can not do this with screws. Granted using screws you can remove something but the nails will hold in the long run much stronger. I've had some mistakes building things in the past and when you have to remove something toe nailed to a plate it it a major pain to get it out but if it's done right it will stand the test of time. I would say that 90% of every nail in my coop is a toe nail and definitely every stud was nailed this way... This may help... http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/skill-builder/0,,460622,00.html I hope all of this info helps. [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 27, 2010
  9. JanetSmithery

    JanetSmithery Out Of The Brooder

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    May 11, 2010
    Eugene, OR
    Very helpful, thank you. My friend and I had to slightly modify our design because we couldn't figure out how to toe nail correctly. I can't wait to get back to the drawing board now!

    Incidentally, I adore your coop, woodguy. It's been bookmarked as my "to build when you own your own home" coop ever since you first posted that thread, and I learned an awful lot about construction by studying your pictures this past month. Thank you for documenting your progress!
     

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