Sponsored Post How to: Introduce new birds to your flock

JenniO11

Chirping
8 Years
Jan 11, 2012
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Thank you to our sponsor Purina for bringing us this post!




With springtime at hand, new birds are on the minds of most flock enthusiasts. Whether you’re starting with a group of new chicks or you’re looking to add a few new hens to an existing flock, proper planning, care and management can help the transition be most successful.

Mikelle Roeder, Ph.D., a flock nutrition expert for Purina Animal Nutrition, says it’s especially important to understand the commitment of raising new birds.

“Springtime and new birds are often thought of together: both represent new beginnings and excitement, but we can’t forget that raising chicks is a long-term commitment,” Roeder says.

“Be sure to have a long-term plan and a place for them to live before your new birds arrive,” she adds. “Preparing for new arrivals can help prevent the spread of disease and keep the peace in your existing flock’s pecking order.”

Manage new birds separately.


As soon as new birds arrive, keep them separate from the rest of the flock. This allows you to monitor the birds closely and prevent any possible illness from spreading to either group.

“New birds have often traveled a fair amount and been near other birds – and your existing flock may have built immunity to germs in your area,” Roeder says. “Keep new birds in a separate room or coop for 30 days and monitor them to make sure they are free of disease and to acclimate them to your backyard.”

During this period, work with the existing flock first and wash your hands between groups to prevent any cross-contamination.

A similar quarantine plan is recommended for new chicks, as older hens can transmit disease to chicks and pullets. For chicks, though, the separation should last for 18 weeks to help the birds reach mature size and transition onto a layer feed before meeting other members of the flock.


“Start new chicks away from the flock, in a brooder,” Roeder says. “This allows you to provide the chicks supplemental heat and teach them to drink and eat a high-energy complete feed. Once they are ready to enter a coop, continue to raise them separately until they reach the same size as the mature birds to minimize potential physical injuries once the two groups of birds are introduced.”

Introduce birds in groups.

After the quarantine period, gradually familiarize new birds to the existing flock. Introducing groups of birds similar in size and traits into a familiar setting can help provide a smooth transition. Be sure there is plenty of space to prevent overcrowding.

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“One way to help both groups acclimate to each other is to place the two groups in side-by-side runs,” Roeder says. “Placing thetwo groups next to one another for one week can help the birds form bonds before being housed together. It can also alert you to potential personality clashes that may be difficult to resolve. Another strategy is to let the new group free-range first and then introduce the existing flock to place the focus on new surroundings rather than new flock members.”

In either case, add additional feeders and waterers to the run to prevent the new birds from being deterred from eating and drinking. During the introduction period, the new pecking order will begin to be established. In most flocks, one bird is dominant in the group and the remaining birds will fall into an accepted order below the dominant bird. Occasionally two strong-willed birds may consistently fight in an attempt to gain the position of dominant bird. In this case, the owner may need to find a new home for one of them in order to maintain peace in the flock.

“The pecking order is a very stable structure in the group until a bird is removed or new birds are added,” Roeder says. “At that point, the order must be re-established. Add new birds in a group with similar-sized hens and plenty of available feed, space and water to help ease the transition.”

Monitor for success.


After new birds are added to the group, monitor the flock for success or fallouts.

“Watch the group closely after the introduction,” Roeder says. “Birds that are happy, healthy and content will continue their routines without changes in personality or feed consumption. Consistency is especially important during transitions, so be sure to continue providing high-quality complete feed, shelter and fresh water at all times.”

To learn more about backyard flock nutrition, visit www.purinamills.com/chicken-feed or like Purina Poultry on Facebook.
 
Introduced some new black and blue copper ladies to their new home and roosters(both Marans,
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one blue and one black)hope they will do as well tonight as they did today
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and maybe one day....I will be like the ol woman in the shoe and have so many ,I won't know what to do!!!! Lol, I wanna keep allllllll of em just don't tell my husband
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and wish me luck.
 
I used a wire dog kennel to introduce two new birds to the flock. Set it up in the coop, provided food and water therein. The birds could see and be near each other, but no physical interaction. And after a long week (about 8-9 days) the kennel door was opened, birds wandered out (curious others wandered in) and the cage was eventually removed. There was a little running around, but no trauma or drama, blood or feathers.
 
I have never had the opportunity to raise chickens until a couple of months ago when a friend bought me 4 little chicks from a feed store. When they had all their feathers I let them free range with his large Rhode Island reds. I am raising my chicks on his property. All was well until we built a medium sized pen with a coop attached and put them all in it. The big chickens asserted their pecking order and my little chickens had to take cover. The first night the chickens all slept in the nesting boxes but were separated. But to my delight tonight 2 of my chicks were snuggled down for the night in the middle of the pile of sleeping reds.
 
When I hear a chicken sound and not a chick sound, that's when I consider introducing the youngsters. A chick sound (any peep) means still young and submissive and easy pickings.
 
One of my little black baby chicks had a wound on the back of her neck. So I pulled her out of the small baby coop and put her in a small cage inside of our large chicken coop where 9 Rhode island reds live who are 6 months old and and 4 chickens who are 12 weeK's old.
After the wound healed I tried to put her back in the baby coop with her siblings but they kept biting her. She was peeping for hours to get out of her cage until she became hoarse.so I finally relented and let her out into the large coop. She is at the bottom of the pecking order. Oh I forgot to mention that there are also 3 Bantams in the coop and one of them is a rooster. They stay to themselves. The first night out of her cage the little black chick tried to roost with them and got underthe wing of one of the hen bantams. Tonight when I checked on her she had placed herself under the wing of one of the older red chickens As they began to roost for the night. I realized she would be okay and I could quit worrying over her. Raising chickens is a wonderful experience!
 
Hi, all,
We have got 6, 10 week old pullets, and 5 three year old hens.
So far, we've fenced off an area of the "older girls" run, and made that the nursery for our "peeps/little girls."
They've been getting to know each other slightly, and there's no big signs of aggression...yet...

But anyway, I just had a question about feeding. When we finally let the little girls in the run together with the big girls, they shouldn't be eating the layer feed, right?
So how do we make sure that they get their grower feed, and the big girls get their layer feed. (Hopefully that wasn't too confusing.)

Any advice?

~SuperChickRuth

When you mix chickens that are still on chick starter with adults on layer, it is better to feed them all chick starter and put out oyster shell for the adults. If the chicks get too much calcium it can harm their organs. I've read that somewhere on this blog. I am in a similar situation. I have 3 month old chicks I want to put in with the adults but am going to wait a bit longer. I do allow them out together during the day to meet the adults and they're doing fine. I just make sure I feed them before I let them out with the big gals and feed the big gals before I let the little ones out. Anyway, when I do mix younger with older, I always "dumb down" the food...feed the chick starter to them all. That way the feed won't harm any of them. I have started 4 month old chickens on layer (White Leghorns usually start laying around 4 months old.) I try to wait until they're laying before I switch them to layer.
 
I just moved 7 one-year old hens into an existing 2 year old flock of 12. I let the 'old' gals out of the coop and let the new gals in the coop with the rooster for about an hour. After introducing himself to the new gals, I let them all out during the day. They had plenty of room to run if they wanted (mostly they didn't, they sparred with the old gals) and the rooster did his job and broke up the fights. That first night together, I turned the lights out the minute I got them all in the coop together so they couldn't really see each other. That next day they were fine. Been 4 days and no issues.
 
Thank you for this! I just came to this site looking for this information. :) We have 5 Golden Comet chicks that are about 5 weeks old and we will want to put them with our year old RIRs. Today I gave the chicks some outside time in an old dog kennel and the RIR's were pretty vocal about it. Very curious.

At what age do you usually introduce new chicks into your flock? I want to make sure that the weather is warm enough for them to be outside (the are on our porch and we are in New England) but also that they are old enough to take care of themselves with the bigger hens.

Thanks!

I wait until they're 'teenagers', 3-4 months old. Let them around your adult rooster first (if you have one) and then let them have the run of the yard for a while (a day or so). And then slowly introduce a few of the older gals in with the younger ones. Do it during the day so the younger ones have room to run if they need to. You don't want to outnumber the younger ones if that is possible. If you can separate them at night that's best until they can spend some days together. If you can't, I put the lights out as soon as I coop 'em up so they can have some peace and hopefully won't get beat up over night. This system has worked for me for the past 5 years.
 

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