I'm building a run ..........

Discussion in 'Coop & Run - Design, Construction, & Maintenance' started by The Johnstown Egg Head, Dec 15, 2009.

  1. The Johnstown Egg Head

    The Johnstown Egg Head New Egg

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    Hi - bit of advice there please ............. I'm building a kind of run to attach to my garden shed, the run itself is going to be 14ft x 11ft, I have the timber bought - looking for advice on how to get together as I intend on building 3 panels then attaching together, also how best to attach to the shed itself ............ hope that makes sense and isn't too daft, I didn't do woodwork in school and even if I did it was a long time ago ......... thanks !
     
  2. Buff Hooligans

    Buff Hooligans Scrambled

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    Can anyone help this run-builder?
     
  3. Countrywife

    Countrywife Corrupted by a Redneck

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    I ran the top and bottom rails right on the chicken house and attached everything from there, burried the side posts. I am a 45 year old girl with no building experience. If I can build a run, so can you, just lay everything out and figure how it works.
     
  4. sekinkead

    sekinkead Chillin' With My Peeps

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    We have 2 different runs. One is made with just chicken wire attached to 1x2's and then screwed to the chicken coop. The other one is made with field fencing and is stapled with fence staples to the coop.
     
  5. patandchickens

    patandchickens Flock Mistress

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    Do I understand that these will be pre-assembled fence panels, that you then just connect to each other and to the coop? Will there be corner (perhaps also line) posts sunk into the ground, or will the whole thing just sit *on* the ground? If there will not be corner posts (and, at those lengths, preferably a line post halfway down each side, too), then you need to either add them, or add horizontal diagonal bracing so that the thing cannot be pushed/fall sideways into a parallelogram shape and cause problems. Also, depending on what materials you are using, a 11 or 15' long fence panel can be rather structurally unstable unless there's a post halfway down. Really on the whole your best bet, in terms of structural stability and strength, is to suck it up and sink corner and halfway posts.

    Also, maybe you are planning on it already, but I would strongly advocate adding an apron of wire mesh 2' or more wide, lying on or just under the surface of the ground along the outside of the run fence and strongly attached to the base of the run fence, to discourage anything digging in under the fence.

    Good luck, have fun,

    Pat
     
  6. Ridgerunner

    Ridgerunner Chicken Obsessed

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    I totally agree with Pat on the need for posts. Corner posts as an absolute minimum and possibly line posts depending on your panel construction. If you can handle a prefabricated fencing panel, you can set the posts. If you are totally unfamiliar with how to do this, you can ask for help at your local hardware or big box home improvement store, but the easiest way is probably to dig a hole about 2' deep, set the post in it, brace it vertical while the concrete sets, and put in some premixed concrete. I use post hole diggers and tamp the posts in place using rocks and an iron bar, but I was lucky enough to grow up doing it that way. Not everybody has the experience of my "lucky" upbringing.

    Have you considered a gate or door into the run? It is easier to install one of these during initial construction instead of a retrofit.

    How to attach it to your shed will depend on a few things, partially your method of construction but a whole lot depends on the construction of your shed. Is it wooden or metal? If it is wood, it is probably a matter of long screws or nails, but you might need to add something to screw or nail it to. With either method, I am a firm believer in pilot holes. If it is metal, it will take a bit more thought but is not really that difficult. Maybe a photo of what you are attaching to?

    Don't get too discouraged. The hardest part is planning it, getting things together, then making yourself do it. Once you get into it, the doing is usually not all that complicated. I guarantee you will be tired when you finish however.
     
  7. patman75

    patman75 Chillin' With My Peeps

    Use lag bolts to secure it to the shed.
     
  8. Bwaaak!

    Bwaaak! Out Of The Brooder

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    I also agree with all the great advice! Besides the 4x4 treated lumbar for the corner posts we also sunk posts next to the wall of our mini barn (16x12), making sure that there was an upright stud on the inside of the mini barn wall to toenail the 4x4 to. Whether you are using sheetrock screws( my husband loves sheet rock screws) or nails its always nice to pre drill the nail holes so the wood wont crack.

    We used a chain linked gate (6 feet tall) and "tied" it to 4x4 posts that were set in the ground, using baling wire. We used the wire because the run would be "temporary". Then there was the tedious task of securing chicken wire from post to post, and to the wall of the mini barn, using those U-shaped nails (fencing nails?). We also used chicken wire for the top of the run.

    Hope this helps! Barb
     
  9. woodenart

    woodenart Out Of The Brooder

    We nearly always attach runs to the houses with screws, pilot hole drilling first as someone has already mentioned. Secure enough to withstand wind etc and not so permanent in case we need to move the Run around.

    Mark
     
  10. gsim

    gsim Chillin' With My Peeps

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    Do not use chicken wire for the sides. Coyotes, coons, dogs will all tear it apart and destroy your flock. Use 2x4 welded wire fence, 6 ft tall or even 8 ft tall (may have to order it) Then put 36" of hardware cloth mesh all around it at ground level attaching it to the 2x4 wire fence and the frame too. Plan and build accordingly for digging predators as Pat said or use cement as I did. Do not underestimate predators!

    At this point you need to decide if you are going to electrify it or not. If not, then do the 2x4 welded wire overhead too. If so, then cheap deer netting overhead will do it for repelling hawks and owls. Run a full length center-support no matter which covering you use so the overhead does not sag. Be sure to put a secure door full size for entrance from the outside. You will be glad you did. Work safely and have fun. [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2009

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