INCUBATING w/FRIENDS! w/Sally Sunshine Shipped Eggs No problem!

[CyndiD]

x2

Could be nutritional deficiencies in the breeder stock. Are you candling to make sure you're setting the eggs with the lowest dip in the aircell up? What temp are you running in the still air?

I've never heard or read about putting the low part of the AC up. I will do that.
But, looking back on all my notes (not very good notes in the beginning) this morn. I noticed my 1st batch of chicken eggs I had 2 temp spikes while incubating. I keep 3-4 glass Aquarium thermometers in the bator and the hatcher, (I have calibrated them) and they tend to be different temps, withing 2 to 4 degrees of eachother. I find it hard to keep a constant temp with the styrofoam bators. I really need to get better bators, if I am going to keep incubating.
I also noticed that when in lockdown (for chicken eggs) my temps were from 96 degrees to 100 degrees. Anything over 98.5 degrees is too High, right?
I have only incubated 2 batches of chicken eggs and 1 batch of duck eggs.
Everytime I read about temps and humidity I see a degree or 2 difference in these and I try to stay within them.
Looking back at my notes and really thinking about it, I think my temps may be fluxuating too much. I really try not to touch the dials and up and down, but it goes up and down on its own.... the bator, I can't control a poor/cheap bator.
This time I am trying the "bator in a box" method and see if the temps stay steady. I ready that if you wrap your bator with a towel/blanket or but it in a box (just up to the sides of the bator) this helps the styrofoam bators keep temps from spiking. I dont know? I just keep reading and trying. Just like they say "a practicing Doctor" I am "a practicing hatcher".
Thanks ladies, any comments are welcomed. I love to learn and hear what works for you.

 

[Sally Sunshine]

Sorry all, nothing new that I have been sick lately, but also busy at home here

will try a quick readback and update!

I dont get upset at jokes

 

[Fire Ant Farm]

x 100 literally Every chick due to hatch today and tomorrow (45)have to be removed from the Bator. The current risk to the others can be mitigated by dipping all the other eggs or fumigating the Bator before they start breathing since hatch is stressful they will ahead ms immediately.
The experts fron NC vet school and research facility specializung in poultry have said the locals are wrong. The odds are not small that they have mycoplasma synoviae spread vertically, but will have it worse and spread it Horizontally.
Why did no one else I talked to sooner. Now these fully developed chicks have to be killed, and we have to fumigate the Bator or clean with bleach. She is checking with the main research guy on mycoplasma and will get back to us on the best hope for our other eggs. We will also have to keep them separate until they can be tested.
I need a good guy or someone to help me cull

That's so awful, I don't know what to say, but...

 

[country lovin]

I was going to eggtopsie this afternoon after I clean the house and just saw that one of my eggs on day 24 pipped

 

[BantyChooks]

Sorry all, nothing new that I have been sick lately,  but also busy at home here    will try a quick readback and update!    

I dont get upset at jokes

Sally!

 

[shahtir101]

x 100 literally Every chick due to hatch today and tomorrow (45)have to be removed from the Bator. The current risk to the others can be mitigated by dipping all the other eggs or fumigating the Bator before they start breathing since hatch is stressful they will ahead ms immediately.
The experts fron NC vet school and research facility specializung in poultry have said the locals are wrong. The odds are not small that they have mycoplasma synoviae spread vertically, but will have it worse and spread it Horizontally.
Why did no one else I talked to sooner. Now these fully developed chicks have to be killed, and we have to fumigate the Bator or clean with bleach. She is checking with the main research guy on mycoplasma and will get back to us on the best hope for our other eggs. We will also have to keep them separate until they can be tested.
I need a good guy or someone to help me cull

I am so sorry!

 

[BantyChooks]

I was going to eggtopsie this afternoon after I clean the house and just saw that one of my eggs on day 24 pipped

 

[nanasacres]

Someone asked about why their [COLOR=FF0000]embryos quit after lockdown[/COLOR].

I would make sure the ventilation was sufficient and what I believe Saris said, pay special attention to breeder nutrition.

Here's a rundown of all possible causes of deaths after day 18. You'll have to look at your process and see what may apply to your situation. The ones in black wouldn't apply since you have a problem with multiple breeds, breeders and hatches.

[COLOR=0000FF]Incubator temperature, humidity, turning or ventilation is improper.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=0000FF]Hatcher temperature, humidity or ventilation is improper.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=0000FF]Contamination - especially from molds.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=0000FF]Fumigation too severe or too long.[/COLOR]
Eggs chilled during transfer to hatcher or transferred too late.
Cracked shell.
[COLOR=0000FF]Nutritional deficiencies. i.e. Vitamin A, vitamin D, vitamin E, vitamin K, vitamin B[SUB]12,[/SUB] riboflavin, biotin, thiamin, folic acid, pantothenic acid, lineolic acid, selenium, calcium, phosphorus, manganese.[/COLOR]
Embryo malpositioned
Embryo development accident (failure to switch to lung respiration)
Heredity (lethal genes, chromosome abnormalities)
Twinning
[COLOR=0000FF]Hatcher opened too much during pipping and hatching.[/COLOR]
Poor shell quality
[COLOR=0000FF]Breeder diseases.[/COLOR]

I'm going to keep this post for future use. Thanks!

 

[shahtir101]

Hi Sally!

 

[shahtir101]

I decided to keep the frizzled silkied serama pullet that was from the NYD hatch. She is nowhere near good quality. But, is so freakin cute! I hope she goes broody a lot when she gets older.