Insulation for coop and other questions

[Deegie]

I don't have any myself, but Buff Orpingtons are reputed to be really great.

Here's some more basic information to help you work out your coop needs:

The Usual Guidelines

For each adult, standard-sized hen you need:

• 4 square feet in the coop (.37 square meters)
• 10 square feet in the run (.93 square meters),
• 1 linear foot of roost (.3 meters),
• 1/4 of a nest box,
• And 1 square foot (.09 square meters) of permanent, 24/7/365 ventilation, preferably located over the birds' heads when they're sitting on the roost.

8 hens

• 32 square feet in the coop. 4'x8' is approaching the limits for a non-walk-in coop even with the access door in the middle. 6'x6' should be walk-in because even the tallest chicken-keeper won't be able to reach the far wall.
• 8 feet of roost
• 80 square feet in the run. 8'x10' is a nice looking number but, remembering the common dimensions of lumber, a roomier 8'x12' is actually easier to build. 6'x14' looks good on paper but would require a lot of weird cuts.
• 8 square feet of ventilation.
• 2-3 nest boxes.

12 hens

• 48 square feet in the coop. 6'x8' is more practical than 4'x12' since a long, skinny coop like that would be difficult to work inside.
• 12 feet of roost
• 120 square feet in the run. 10'x12' or 8'x15' -- 8'x16' means fewer odd cuts than either of those. 6'x20' is possible, especially if your run is an open-topped, fenced area instead of fully-enclosed with a solid and/or wire roof but risks social problems because subordinate hens need to be able to pass the dominant hens at a respectful distance.
• 12 square feet of ventilation.
• 3 nest boxes.

15 hens

• 60 square feet in the coop. 8'x8' is easier to build than 6'x10'
• 15 feet of roost
• 150 square feet in the run. 10'x15', 12'x12' or 8'x20'
• 15 square feet of ventilation.
• 4 nest boxes.

For the number you're getting you'll probably want to keep only 1 male, but having a number to start with is good so you can select the one that suits you best.


Medium Coops

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/my-barn-red-and-white-coop-complete-build-photos.75458/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/my-coop.74322/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/egg-song-music-factory.74019/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/perkolators-modern-chicken-estate-2019.75345/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/ar...-our-charming-and-eleggant-family-coop.77803/

Large Coops

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/alaskan-woods-coop.75752/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/my-coop.76267/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/post-and-beam-styled-coop-run.76181/reviews
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/le-palais-de-poulet-the-chicken-palace.67196/
https://countryliving.blog/2021/06/15/my-coop/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/ar...-kd-knock-down-10-by-16-coop-pictorial.75421/

Shed Conversions

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/the-mulligan.74743/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/aarts-coop-page.65912/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/the-scoop-on-a-rubbermaid-big-max-coop.76444/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/toy-shed-conversion.64879/

Thank you for the info. What we have considered so far is an 8X12 coop. This should allow for a little chicken math. The run is 8 X 16 covered with a roof but we intend to free range. If that does not work out we will increase the size of the run.

I see and understand your 4 sq feet per chicken in the coop. But to me 8 X 12 looks soooo big. I have seen apts for people that size. lol - I have also read that 1 sq foot in the coop is okay if the run is big and they free range. What are your thoughts on this?

As for the rooster, we do plan to find one we like and keep that one. The rest will probably go to the freezer.

thanks for educating me. I was city raised.

 

[3KillerBs]

I see and understand your 4 sq feet per chicken in the coop. But to me 8 X 12 looks soooo big. I have seen apts for people that size. lol - I have also read that 1 sq foot in the coop is okay if the run is big and they free range. What are your thoughts on this?

1 square foot is commercial caged layer accommodations and those are very small hens. An adult Buff Orpington is approximately a foot square so that would mean packing them into the coop like sardines for the night.

These numbers I've given you are all *guidelines*, not hard and fast *rules* -- though they are generally considered minimums.

And this article goes into some detail about how complicated and multi-factorial this is: https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/how-much-room-do-chickens-need.66180/

Sometimes chickens can be fine for an extended period in tighter quarters -- I kept 5 hens in space intended for 4 for over a year. That worked because I had a gigantic run and a very forgiving climate where there was no day in the year that I had to leave my flock closed up for any reason. They even came out to forage in the run between rain bands of a hurricane.

But sometimes even if you have followed the guidelines you find that your birds are exhibiting signs of stress and overcrowding because those individual birds are the sort who need more space than others. Hatcheries often say that certain breeds "tolerate confinement" while other breeds are "excellent free rangers" -- these aren't guarantees, but they help with understanding different birds' space needs.

Here's an illustration of what 4 square feet actually looks like:

Yep, my doormat is exactly 3.9 square feet. Unfortunately, I don't have a chicken docile enough to be convinced to stand on it long enough to be photographed.

But here's a photo of 3 cockerels, who are about the same size as adult hens of their breed, in a 4x8 space -- theoretically enough space for 8 birds.

And my thoughts on why oversized facilities are a good idea if you can manage to provide them.

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/over-sized-isnt-just-for-sweaters.77604/

 

[SandyRiverChick]

I knew that you'd get a whole lot of "no," to the question of insulation so I thought I'd throw a "yes," your way. My coop is insulated and I'm very happy with it. It's the same as any human dwelling, foam board between studs and under flooring. When I open the door in summer cool air rushes out, it's lovely. And in winter it's cozy. I have very good ventilation and many windows. The way I know that it's done right is that I have no problems with condensation/moisture. My SO is a home inspector, side job, and it's passed his inspection. So its up to you. If you insulate, just do it right. I start baby chicks in a room in my coop so the insulated walls are very helpful in bringing up the ambient temp in that room.

 

[Deegie]

Okay, this is what we have (sort of) agreed on so far. The coop will be 8x12 which will allow me a few more birds should I want them. There will be no insulation (easier and cheaper) and the run will be approx 10x20 with half of it covered with a metal roof and half covered in hardware cloth.

Side note: We had Quail a few years back and covered their enclosure with hardware cloth. I went out one day to find a bobcat laying on top the pen. I don't want anything to get in the run or coop as that is where they will be if we have to leave for a day or two.

My hubby agreed to put electric in for me but may not do that until next year. We have multiple other projects going right now. Outside and in...

I do intend to free range and plan on the deep dry bedding method for the coop. I am old, I don't want to "have" to clean everyday. lol


Any other ideas for me? Remember we are new to this and welcome any input. We want to build once and build right.

 

[3KillerBs]

Any other ideas for me? Remember we are new to this and welcome any input. We want to build once and build right.

It looks good so far.

Here's a few random tips:

Top-hinged windows form their own awnings and can be easily adjusted to suit weather conditions.

We care more about the precise nature of the perches than the chickens do. 2x4s either side up or branches all work just fine as long as you round over the corners on the 2x4's and keep them at least a foot or so from the walls and their same height from the other wall -- because chickens fly at about a 45-degree angle (some adults of heavy breeds don't even achieve falling with style and will slam into obstacles if the perches are too close to them).

Clutter is good: A cluttered run

Mount feeders and waterers at the level of the birds' back to limit spillage.

 

[Deegie]

Clutter is good: A cluttered run

I loved looking at this thread and now I am brainstorming about what fun things I can put in the run. It should be plenty big enough. Thank you!