Integrating 2 flocks from two separate farms w/ most being of laying age...

BamburghFarms

Songster
Jul 24, 2018
63
72
106
Mid-Ohio Valley
As I stated in our introduction to the group, we are brand new newbies at this chicken raising thing!! Lol So, we need some help with flock integration!! We have two flocks that we are wanting to integrate into one extra large coop. Currently our “main” flock of 5 hens, which consists of 1 Black Star currently laying, 1 Buff Orpington currently laying (we think), 1 Golden Comet broody (we think), 1 RIR (just started laying we think), and 1 RIR pullet... is in a very small coop and fenced chicken yard. Our “new” flock consists of 6 hens, 4 White Leghorns that we were told are currently laying (however I personally think one may actually be a young cockerel and only 2 of the other white leghorn hens are giving us an egg each a day) and 2 Easter Eggers, one of which is currently laying and one is a pullet. We are getting a rooster from a completely different farm on Sunday. We attempted a “test” by putting the RIR pullet from the main flock in with the new flock just now. Not to be crude but in the spirit of full disclosure here lol she is our least favorite chicken and that’s why she was chosen for the “Hen Hunger Games” because we don’t know what we are doing lol. We would like to move the Broody Golden Comet into the new coop tomorrow and our hope is with the addition of the Rooster on Sunday, we can put our three “main flock” layers in with them all on Monday. Does this seem like it will work? Opinions? Comments? Suggestions? Any information is super appreciated everyone!! And thanks in advance for your help!!
 
First you want to keep them separate for about 30 days. This quarantine time will hopefully show any that are sick. After that a large area separated by a fence they can fit heads through but not bodies. Throw some scratch or feed along the fence and let them get used to each other. Once they seem reliable you can take the fence down and let them together. Keep in mind that once they integrate they will most likely all use the same roost so you'll need enough space.
 
Take your time with quarantine and integration. I always treat new hens with a round of anti-biotics, worming, and lice treatment--whether or not they need it. This helps to mitigate any risk of disease, worms, and lice spreading between the flocks.

It sounds like you're trying a phased approach? Don't do that. Chickens don't like change and they don't like new chickens to deal with.

Keep them within talking distance of each other and allow them to eat and scratch next to each other with a chicken-wire dividing fence to stop any fighting. They'll see each other as flock mates reasonably quickly this way. It takes 2-4 weeks of separation with this method, but generally works out pretty well.

The two flocks are similarly sized, so you're better off going with the "big bang" approach and integrating all at once. Integrate them at night by putting them all on the same roost while they're docile. Hopefully adding a roo to the mix will keep them all in line.

Following the above methods, I've successfully grown my flock from 2 to 17 with five integrations and zero issues with disease or (ongoing) bullying.
 
So both flocks came from different places and are now living near by each other in separate coop/runs?
How old is the 'rooster'?

Knowing more about how big these spaces are would help garner more specific suggestions. Dimensions and pics of coops and runs are always good.

I'm betting quarantine is a ship that has already sailed,
but in case you're interested....
Consider biological/medical quarantine:
BYC Medical Quarantine Article
BYC 'quarantine' search


Here's my take on....
Integration Basics:
It's all about territory and resources(space/food/water).
Existing birds will almost always attack new ones to defend their resources.
Understanding chicken behaviors is essential to integrating new birds into your flock.

Confine new birds within sight but physically segregated from older/existing birds for several weeks, so they can see and get used to each other but not physically interact.

In adjacent runs, spread scratch grains along the dividing mesh, best if mesh is just big enough for birds to stick their head thru, so they get used to eating together.

The more space, the better.
Birds will peck to establish dominance, the pecked bird needs space to get away. As long as there's no copious blood drawn and/or new bird is not trapped/pinned down and beaten unmercilessly, let them work it out. Every time you interfere or remove new birds, they'll have to start the pecking order thing all over again.

Multiple feed/water stations. Dominance issues are most often carried out over sustenance, more stations lessens the frequency of that issue.

Places for the new birds to hide 'out of line of sight'(but not a dead end trap) and/or up and away from any bully birds. Roosts, pallets or boards leaned up against walls or up on concrete blocks, old chairs tables, branches, logs, stumps out in the run can really help. Lots of diversion and places to 'hide' instead of bare wide open run.


Oh, and, Welcome to BYC!
Where in this world are you located?
Climate is almost always a factor.
Please add your general geographical location to your profile.
It's easy to do, then it's always there!
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I would not put pullets with the rooster until they are big enough or ready to be mated. I'm doing an integration now and it's still touch and go after about 2 months. The smaller ones were quarantined for about 4 weeks, moved out to a see but no touch environment for about a month and here we are about two weeks later with some chasing. The boy sometimes tries to mate and sometimes he wants peace and is busy running back and forth. I do not trust them together if I'm not here to supervise.
 
Chickens hate change, but you can use that to your advantage. Get them all in there at once into a new coop, new birds, everything is strange. Being that you are adding nearly equal amounts, this will really spread the pecking around. Feathers will probably fly, lots of bluster, but there should not be a single target bird. Watch to make sure.

But before you do, take a good hard look at your new set up. You are going to need a large run, a good rule of thumb is at least 120 square feet. Inside that run, you are going to need hideouts, places where a bird can get out of sight of other birds.

Ideas for hideouts:
  • roosts
  • pallets leaned up against the wall with two exits
  • pallets up on saw horses or cement blocks
  • mini walls - a small piece of plywood - a good place to set up a second or third feed dish
  • multiple water sources
  • multiple food sources
  • Check the shade through out the day, especially around 4:00 pm
These will make the run look more cluttered, but it is much more interesting to chickens and it allows chickens to get away from each other.

Put them all in together, just before dark. Do make sure that you have plenty of room for them all to roosts in the coop. They will be a lot of bluster - but they will be wanting to find a roost for the night.

They are animals, but if you set it up right, it should settle fairly quickly.

Mrs K
 
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