integrating 2wo chicks with flock - at night - is it worth it?

I've seen the recommendation of starting integration into the flock at night so they all just wake up with the new flock members and forget they weren't always there.
Let's discuss this a little bit. Each chicken has its own personality and each flock has its own dynamics. We all have different circumstances, set-ups, and so many other differences that we can all get different results even if we try it the same way. Sometimes integration is so easy you wonder what all the worry was about, sometimes chickens die. Very much like NatJ said.

In my opinion how much room you have and the quality of that room has a big part to play in how successful integration is. Extra room does not give you a guarantee that you will be successful but I believe it helps a lot. By extra room I don't mean square feet per bird but can they get away and stay away from the others when they need to. You'll see us talk about clutter. That's stuff they can hide under, behind, or above to break line of sight. Clutter can improve the quality of what room you have. When I'm integrating juveniles, when I go down in the morning the juveniles are typically on the roosts while the adults are on the 8' x 12' coop floor. They can avoid the adults because the roosts are high enough the adults can't peck them from the floor. If I have a second younger group of juveniles in there they are typically hiding in a tight space under my nests, away from both older groups. That's some examples of how clutter can work.

Dad's method of integrating was to release the chicks in the area of the hen house without any "look but don't touch" and walk away. It worked for him. He had a flock of around 25 to 30 adults that totally free ranged. Most slept in a henhouse at night but several slept in trees. Most of us don't have that type of room and most of us would not accept them sleeping in trees. I would not recommend Dad's method for the vast majority of people on this forum. They are not set up for it and don't use those management methods.

I have no doubt some people are successful by putting perfect strangers in the coop at night and letting them wake up together. I don't know their details. Do they leave the pop door open so they can escape the tight coop as soon as they wake up? Do they have enough room that they can get away from the others? Do their chickens sort out the pecking order before the humans know it? Do they only do that with adults? I'd be a lot more nervous with chicks than adults.

My first attempt at integration with my second batch of chicks this past fall went poorly, so I'm willing to try just about anything if there's a chance it will help things go more smoothly with these chicks.
I'm not sure how you went about it last fall. With 3 hens and 4 chicks it's very possible your room is pretty limited, both in the coop and in the run. That can make it harder. It's easier for me to make specific suggestions if I know what you are working with. In the Bay area of California you should have reasonable weather pretty soon. How big, in feet, is your coop? How big, in feet, is your run? Photos of what the coop looks like inside and how the coop and run go together could be valuable.

Without that information all I can do is what the others are pretty much doing. Give you generic suggestions and let you work out the details. House them across wire for a while so they get used to each other. When you let them merge give them as much room as you can and use clutter to improve the quality of what room you do have. Provide at least two feed and water stations well apart, preferably put of line of sight of each other. Try to not force them to share a tight space if you can avoid it at all. Try to let them work it out at their pace. Don't believe they have to sleep on the roosts next to each other. I don't care where mine sleep as long as it is not in the nests and is somewhere predator proof. They'll work that stuff out later. If there is enough size difference the safe haven concept my help. That's where you provide openings the chicks can get through but the adults can't so the chicks can escape to a safe place if they need to. When you first let them mingle at night, be down there at first light as they wake up to see how it is going and so you can open the pop door and they can escape.

People successfully integrate all of the time, even in tight spaces. You can manage but sometimes are easier than others.
 
I put mine in at that age. More chicks is better, it spreads out the pecking. But what is important is escapes. Places where the very quick chicks can get to that a mean old biddy cannot follow. Chick feed can be placed here too.

A fence 3-4 inches off the ground works grand!. Chicks can venture out, and scuttle right back in. I usually sit down there until a couple get brave enough to venture out, and give a mock chase back in.

A pallet up off the ground in the middle of the run. This allows entry for the chicks on all for sides. And again, a chasing hen can not reach them.

Do have a wind shelter in the run, as a cold wind can really chill them down.

In the run is where I start with them. I leave a box on it's side or a small dog crate that I have them sleep in before I take it down available to them. I go down at night, and my chicks have always cuddled up in the box, and I lift it and place it in the coop.

The coop is where I worry about them as it is a smaller space, and sometimes escapes are hard to set up. But I do have a few.

Mrs K
 
Even chickens are not THAT stupid.

Usually, when a chicken sees a flockmate, she knows where it is in the pecking order (above or below her.) With a new chicken, she will not know that, so she will still have to settle the pecking order.
I never thought that night placement was for the existing flock but for the new birds to understand that this is the place they now go for the night. I always leave the brooder coop set up but accessible for 3 nights and night transfer any new hens that decide to go back. It has never taken more than 3 nights for the new birds to understand where their new home is. After 3 nights of moving them into main coop, I disassemble the brooder coop. This is much easier on me than trying to chase down birds in the large free-range area to get them up at night.

Agreed about it having zero effect on whether or not the new birds will be accepted into the flock. It just puts the fights off until the morning - especially in my set up where I manually release them from the enclosed coop run each morning. The new birds stay away from the pack until all pecking order positions have been secured.
 
Thanks, everyone!

I think part of what didn't go well last fall was that I brought the boys out for the day in a crate in the run and then I brought them back in at night (it was warm during the day, but they still needed heat at night and I don't have electricity out there) for a few weeks. And, of course, space was an issue. I have a smaller hoop run that I put inside the larger "free range" area, but there wasn't a ton of room to move around the edges (I did make sure there were no dead ends to get trapped in), though the chicks would occasionally fly up on top of the hoops. The hens (one in particular who was lowest ranked then, but now seems to be higher?) would pace the edge of the crate/hoop run and scare them and they never seemed to get to the point of ignoring each other, even though I tried to feed them on either side of the partition as often as possible. I added more clutter and tried letting them out, but it ended with a big beak full of feathers multiple times and terrified cockerels.

This time, it already seems to be going better. I figured out a way to get the brooder crate in the coop and an extension cord out there, so the chicks have been out 24/7 for the last week and as far as I can tell, the hens are mostly ignoring the chicks - I haven't seen them pace and try to scare them at all, though that may be because they're mostly out of sight since the hens spend very little time in the coop once the sun is up.

The nest access is in the coop (not the run), so once the hens are done laying for the day, I've been closing the pop door to the coop and opening the crate in a way that there's just a little space for chicks to learn to get in and out. As of yesterday, they seem to be fine for an hour or so without running back to the heat immediately, so once they actually leave the crate (they've *just* started to venture to the doorway) and practice that, I'll try the "escape hatch" as the next step. Once they find themselves in the run, though, it's hard to add more space or enough clutter for them to get away. The secure run is only 5x10 (with a raised coop over 1/3 of that). I put a roost bar higher up in the run in hopes that the chicks could use that; the hens can get to it, but it's not so easy. I have some tree stumps lying around, but nothing particularly tall - maybe I can put a small pallet on its side in there. And the fenced area, I do have some clutter, but I'm sure it can always use more, and I also have plans to make the fenced space bigger before letting everyone out together...
A pallet up off the ground in the middle of the run. This allows entry for the chicks on all for sides. And again, a chasing hen can not reach them.
I have a pallet that I can use for this - I will put it in!
 
I think it is definitely worth cooping them separately but making them visible. I have never tried to put chicks that young in with adult hens, but I don't see that going very well for the chicks. I usually don't place my new chickens into the main coop until they are 14-16 weeks old. I do, however, place them into their own, coop/run within the larger hen yard at about 4 weeks old. That age depends on the weather. If it is still getting down to 20s/30s at night, I usually keep them in a brooding setup with a heater in my garage. Once they are ready to go outside, I don't use any artificial heat.

As this is the only method I have used, there may be others who have done differently with success.
I guess I'm pretty lucky. Since I'm just new at this, and this is my very first "flock" of four chickies (maybe one cockerel?), but as far as acclimating the birds, I'm doing about the same thing. I used a downstairs, unoccupied bedroom as their first base, for protection and temperature control, with a heat lamp when they were very small. Now, I've made a make shift coop outside on the upstairs balcony, all fenced in with chicken wire, cardboard on the floor, with wood chips. Wow! What a difference a couple of weeks makes! They're now going on six weeks old. No more heat lamp. The "girls" seem to love it now, though at first seemed a bit apprehensive. Now, with clean water and food in place, I simply open up the puppy carrier door, and they walk out into their new "digs." So far, at evening time, I corral them into the puppy carrier again, and they're back into the large Walmart tote, in the bedroom at night, to sleep. It will be that way, until my husband and I can get their larger run and chicken coop secured. Because I didn't know what I was doing when I purchased the small coop, I'm now modifying it into a larger coop. I love my chick babies!
 
I've only done this twice with single adult chickens. I will always remember the post from the woman who said she tried "the sneaking the new chickens onto the roost" method and woke up to a blood bath in the coop the following morning. Not for the faint of heart!

My best results came from the "look, but don't touch method." It takes longer and there is much posturing at the barrier but eventually, they were scratching and eating peacefully side by side and a few days later were an integrated flock.

Good luck!
How long does it take for look no touch and what age. I was thinking of putting my chicks into a crate in the coop this weekend. They are 5 weeks old. I have been hlodging visiting hours with the chicks in a separate pen and one hen really wanted to come in so i let one.. and she immediately pecked a baby. No harm done just a quick — snip - but still..
 
How long does it take for look no touch and what age
1-2 weeks, depending on reaction of the existing birds (ideally you want them to lose interest).

Age doesn't really matter, but you may need to set up differently depending on ages of the birds. I aim to integrate as early as possible, using chick sized openings/escape routes, but that only works with young chicks (needs to be completed under 8 weeks or so) because it's taking advantage of their small size. My article on setting up specifically for early integration: https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/short-on-time-recycle-a-prefab-brooder.73985/
 

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