International Black Copper Marans Thread - Breeding to the SOP

[Chooks man]

60 is even better

Ok I had to go and take phots for you .

here the 60 chicks



the older ones are 10 days older .

chooks man

 

[pioneerchick816]

 

[kcrandall]

that is great number of eggs .

about the BC X BLC , you will get like you said 50% each color ( in the genetic calculator not in the reality ) .you will get some BC and other BLC .
I got more Black than Blue from the same crossing . BC rooster ( Djabel ) over a 4 BLC hens .

the Black copper coming out of this cross are true Black copper NOT Split .doesn t exist split ,Black copper to Blue . Blue will be blues and Black will be Black . only what you have to be aware of is the dark Blue chicks .some are so dark people mistake them for a Black that all .

how many chicks you managed to hatch from the first mating?
you need minimum of 25 chicks by rooster to catch the genetic train if you want to improve your flock .

I can t wait to see the new hatch from you .

all the best .

Chooks man

PS .my last hatch was yesterday 25 healthy chicks . now is the time for me to clean all the incubator and hatcher .than put them in store room .

Thanks for your insight Chooks Man!! This is my first mating of the season - I got a bit of a late start because my day job got in the way. I'll mark the chicks with leg bands and toe punches so I can track by breeding pairs. I'm well excited to see what my Chooks do. At least half the eggs are from Otis (well colored) - I paired him with my Blue CM that lacks copper hackles but has overall good type. She also lays a #5 spherical shaped egg with nice sheen. Since Otis is from a dark egg my thought is that his female progeny may lay darker eggs than they momma and have nice copper hackles.

Keith

 

[Chooks man]

Thanks for your insight Chooks Man!! This is my first mating of the season - I got a bit of a late start because my day job got in the way. I'll mark the chicks with leg bands and toe punches so I can track by breeding pairs. I'm well excited to see what my Chooks do. At least half the eggs are from Otis (well colored) - I paired him with my Blue CM that lacks copper hackles but has overall good type. She also lays a #5 spherical shaped egg with nice sheen. Since Otis is from a dark egg my thought is that his female progeny may lay darker eggs than they momma and have nice copper hackles.

Keith

I think you done the right thing by Otis.
you ll get a nice pullet ,well colored from the mating to a Blue copper hen without hackle .they ll lay a dark egg for sure around 25% of them will be darker than they parent stock . you just have to hatch this pullets and let them grow .

I have a great result mating Djabel ( over colored English type BCM to the Blue copper hens without hackle. a lot pullet start to show coppery hackles at early stage 4/5 weeks of age .plus no presence of any parasitic white ( my Blue copper hens have a white feathers on the wings .) Djabel correct that .

good luck to you with your hatch

Chooks man

 

[oregonkat]

sorry I did not take photo of them . too many photos .

I took the photos of the last group . I added the new hatch to them to form one large group 60 together.





they are the last left in the house . they still in the laundry room . the rest are all out in the big nursery or out .

I like this group because has 4 chicks pure golden salmon 2 Blue golden salmon and 2 Golden salmon classic type .

well happy about that .

chooks man

Please can you tell me if you dry incubate your BCM's or do you just do them the way you other eggs? I just failed epically with a hatch, or rather no hatch and I need real expert advice. I want my next hatch to look like your hatch. Thanks so much.

 

[Chooks man]

Please can you tell me if you dry incubate your BCM's or do you just do them the way you other eggs? I just failed epically with a hatch, or rather no hatch and I need real expert advice. I want my next hatch to look like your hatch. Thanks so much.

I do all the eggs the same way 45/50% humidity and 37.7 D C.

I do not increase the humidity when I transfer them to the hatcher .

hatcher has to be set at the same temperature and humidity as the incubator .minimum variation possible .

we had hot and dry summer .that help me a lot to keep the humidity down .

good luck with your next hatch .

Chooks man

 

[ejcrist]

I do all the eggs the same way 45/50% humidity and 37.7 D C.

I do not increase the humidity when I transfer them to the hatcher .

hatcher has to be set at the same temperature and humidity as the incubator .minimum variation possible .

we had hot and dry summer .that help me a lot to keep the humidity down .

good luck with your next hatch .

Chooks man

That's similar to what I've been doing when incubating and hatching my other breeds. I don't have any BCM yet but they're due to be ready from a breeder I hooked up with soon. For incubating I set at 99.5F and 45%-50% humidity, and for hatching I go with 99.0F and 60%-65% humidity. No particular reason other than that's what I've read. I'm pretty new at incubating but have had 80%-100% hatch rates so far this year which I'm happy with.

What's the reason for keeping incubation and hatching conditions the same? Everything I've read said to bump the humidity up a little to keep chicks from getting shrink-wrapped when unzipping. Obviously your method works well so I'm guessing there's quite a bit of humidity margin available when they start hatching.

 

[Chooks man]

That's similar to what I've been doing when incubating and hatching my other breeds. I don't have any BCM yet but they're due to be ready from a breeder I hooked up with soon. For incubating I set at 99.5F and 45%-50% humidity, and for hatching I go with 99.0F and 60%-65% humidity. No particular reason other than that's what I've read. I'm pretty new at incubating but have had 80%-100% hatch rates so far this year which I'm happy with.

What's the reason for keeping incubation and hatching conditions the same? Everything I've read said to bump the humidity up a little to keep chicks from getting shrink-wrapped when unzipping. Obviously your method works well so I'm guessing there's quite a bit of humidity margin available when they start hatching.

you are doing fine .

the reason I keep the temperature and humidity the same way ( incubation and hatching ) is the marans eggs are thicker and larger .So they hold more humidity in they membrane So we don t want it to be water logged .
the problem start to happen when the first chicks start to hatch .the humidity goes higher .we have to watch that as well .
me I move any chicks that hatched strait away and I keep them under the heat lamp in a small box to dry . I have better result .No split legs . no dying chicks at hatching . I m always around .I work from home ( breed the marans chooks and sale them ) So it is easier for me to do so

Chooks man

 

[ejcrist]

you are doing fine .

the reason I keep the temperature and humidity the same way ( incubation and hatching ) is the marans eggs are thicker and larger .So they hold more humidity in they membrane So we don t want it to be water logged .
the problem start to happen when the first chicks start to hatch .the humidity goes higher .we have to watch that as well .
me I move any chicks that hatched strait away and I keep them under the heat lamp in a small box to dry . I have better result .No split legs . no dying chicks at hatching . I m always around .I work from home ( breed the marans chooks and sale them ) So it is easier for me to do so

Chooks man

Ok - gotcha. That makes sense. Thanks for that info; I never knew that but it'll certainly be helpful when I start breeding them next season. Great info to know - thanks.

 

[Chooks man]

Hi evry one .
Can any body help me to contact Branda Littlepeddler. I don know where to find her .the email is not going through .

Cheers
Chooks man