Kentucky people

Hi - newbie here in Jessamine County! I've been lurking around BYC for information on getting started and am just now starting to renovate my very old inherited coop on the property. I won't be getting chicks until early spring but honestly have so much clean up and repair to do, as well as fencing, that I'm sure I'll be running around frantically when the chicks are ready to move outside. I'm thinking Australorps (if I can ever get that spelling right!). Any ideas on other breeds good for around here and best place to get chicks? Thanks!
 
Australorps are great birds and prolific egg layers. Ours are four years old and some are still laying (and they're huge eggs). We have had several breeds. I also recommend Orpingtons (especially buffs--seem to have the best disposition generally), and a few Rhode Island Reds are good to have, too (also prolific egg layers). We had Wyandottes, and neither my husband or I could stand them--very flighty, nervous birds, just OK egg layers, not terribly big eggs, and they stopped laying earlier than any other breeds we have had. We also have one Brahma (she's OK, but I wouldn't want a lot of them) and one Ameracauna, just to have blue/green eggs. However, Ameracaunas are also very flighty and nervous, and ours is not friendly except to the Brahma, which is her best buddy in the flock. She is cute as a button, though. Wyandottes are gorgeous, but if it's nice birds that lay well that you want, stay away from the "prettiest" and go with other heritage breeds that have really been developed for laying and not for fancy feathering.

We have bought from TSC in the past, but with the outbreaks of disease from their supplier (Mt. Healthy Hatchery), I wouldn't in the future. We have bought from Ideal Hatchery and were pleased with our chicks. I strongly suggest you buy from a an NPIP-certified hatchery or breeder and pay extra for the Marek's vaccine, which protects them from a deadly disease carried by wild birds, so all chickens are susceptible.

Just my two cents!
 
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Your two cents is much appreciated! I do want calm, big birds who will withstand KY weather easily and lay well. After looking at my kennel panels, I think I can configure it at 8X20 if attached to the coop entrance, and it's 6' high. The coop is pretty spacious inside, with a larger room (maybe 8x10?) and an adjoining small room (8x4?) that opens into the run. I'm fretting about predators before I even get the chicks, as they will without a doubt become pets and I wouldn't take an attack on them lightly. I'll be adopting an Anatolian pup not too long after the chickens will be out of my house and in their house and I'm hoping she'll help guarding although she'll be worthless to the chickens at night if sleeping in my bed :) With that rough description of my set up, how many chicks would be reasonable keeping their utmost comfort in space in mind? They will be allowed to free range while I'm home to keep an eye on them, but if they were to have to be up for any amount of time, I don't want them cramped.
 
Don't go nuts. We went from 6 to 40 in four years (though we're trying to get back down in the 30's). Some people jump up that fast in a single season. The biggest problem is the minimum order size for most hatcheries is 25, though some do 15. 25 is too many for a first-timer. If you need to, just check Craigslist in the late winter/spring and there will be plenty of people with chicks for sale, especially the more common breeds.

I assume you have or will have part of your coop set up as the "henhouse," where they roost and where the egg boxes are. Will that be your 4 x 8 room? There are guidelines online for how many square feet to allow per bird, and I think it is 4-6 sq ft per bird if they spend at least half their time in a large run/yard or free range. You have to consider that in the winter, especially like last winter, they will be indoors a lot and that 4 sq ft per bird gets a little tight. That's where we are now (with a very large chicken yard and attached garden, which they are currently "deforesting" with great joy). Chickens don't particularly enjoy walking in snow. You won't get as much as I do around Indy (I'm from L'ville, so I joined this thread), but you will get some unless you are in southern KY.

Start small. There is this thing called "chicken math" which is responsible for the mass proliferation of chickens to one's maximum capacity very quickly. Ours aren't "pets," with a few exceptions, but we do like almost all of them. The jerks tend to wind up in the freezer sooner for sure, without tears (yes, there's that to be considered down the line, too--you can't allow chicken math to overtake you if you plan on keeping your birds until they die a natural death, which can be 8-10 years). We will let some live their whole life because they are either super good birds (at teaching other birds), or we just love 'em because they are particularly sweet and gentle. I would get between 6-10 to start, and see how things go. You want to be sure you like it. Almost all of us on here are nuts about our birds, but some people get them then decide it isn't for them, then the birds wind up being given away or sent to chicken rescues--but that isn't a great backup plan.

Oh, I almost forgot one other breed I do not recommend. We got three Jersey Giants. They are TOO docile to keep in a mixed flock, in my opinion. They are huge and lay big eggs early on, but 2 of our 3 were picked on very badly by the rest, and only one was co-boss with an Australorp. One died, we slaughtered one that became an egg eater, and we still have one, but will slaughter her before winter. She lived last winter for 3 months in our garage because the other birds wouldn't let her stay in the henhouse, and she almost froze to death. We love her, but I'm not having chickens in my house. She looks terrible because of all the feathers the others have pulled out of her, but she gets plenty to eat, has good body weight, and lays regularly. They also eat a lot more than standard sized chickens for the same egg production, but it was an experiment we tried, and it failed. Australorps aren't as big, and are egg machines, and easy going. So, we're just as happy with them as our black chickens than the Jersey Giants, which were also black.

Last thing, but very important. You really should bury 1/4" hardware cloth around the complete perimeter of your coop and run, or you will wind up with predation after dark/before sunrise, and it can be devastating. We have only lost one single bird to a predator (probably a mink) in four years, and the hen that was killed stayed out after dark. Our fault for not putting them away at dusk that night. Friends who just use chain link or chicken wire find that small but vicious predators can get in, like mink/weasels. Racoons are also awful, as are hawks. However, domestic dogs kill the greatest number of chickens. Your choice of an Anatolian is good, but you need to do a lot of reading and/or rely on a great trainer to be sure that the birds are safe from the dog, and that people are safe from the dog. Anatolians don't like anyone but their family members. One of our neighbors has a Pointer that jumped over our fence and ran of with a hen. Fortunately, she was not killed. We had a lower fence then, now have a 5' deer fence for the yard/garden, but the entire coop has hardware cloth buried about 10-12" deep. Hubby rented a trencher to do that right after he set the 2x4 uprights for our coop. Most of our coop is actually hardware cloth except for the henhouse, and the roosting area in our two rooster "apartments"/breeding pens. We added 1/2" of polystyrene insulation to the henhouse exterior last winter, covered that with Tyvek house wrap, and just now are finally siding it with galvanized steel roofing material so it doesn't have that "West Virginia" unfinished look any more. I love the fancy painted coops that look like little houses, but we wound up spending about 5K over the past four years on what we do have, so I can't imagine investing much more!

P.S. Buy this book. It's as close to the Bible for backyard flock owners as there is. http://www.amazon.com/The-Small-Sca...tmm_pap_title_0?ie=UTF8&qid=1411692925&sr=8-3
 
Tons of great info and very much appreciated; there's nothing like the experience of others to learn from. I'm going to start with 6 and possibly split them between Australorps and Buffs and hopefully can find both relatively close to me in early spring. I was planning on using the furthest inward and largest room for nesting. I'll definitely look into lining the bottom, burying and reinforcing for security as predation will make me nuts until a few months pass without incidence. I have a tiny dachshund who is ridiculously curious and can get through and under very narrow passages so I'll test it on her lol. The Anatolian isn't a rigid decision, but I've always had GSDs and that breed seems to share many common traits but more reliable around poultry and the other livestock on adjoining farms. I live alone and there are no small children involved and although I'd welcome the cautiousness toward people of any dog, I don't appreciate "misplaced' or indiscriminate aggression in any animal. Something to think more about....
Although I ran a decent sized aviary breeding parrots, they were inside and climate controlled and realize there's a big difference in caring for outside birds. We've had some bitterly cold weather here in the past and I'm sure there will be times of dreading those outdoor chores, so I'll remind myself often to not get too enthusiastic too quickly. I know myself well enough now at 60 to be pretty certain they'll all be lifers and I don't want 30 retired birds.
Thanks for the advice, with "don't go nuts" being the piece I'll repeat to myself often. One last question - with the buried wire, how far up the chain link enclosure should it reach?
 
If your enclosures are chain link, along with the buried hardware cloth, I'd go up another 3-4' with 1/4" hardware cloth, then you can probably switch to chicken wire up to the 6' height. I don't know too many people who rely only on chain link--the ones that I do have had major predator issues, and there is nothing more heartbreaking than to find mass slaughter of your beloved birds. Chain link is just too big and open. Chicken wire is pretty lame by itself, but combined with chain link should give you decent coverage. We have hardware cloth or solid wood all the way from a foot below ground to the ceiling.

Yes, you will certainly find keeping chickens different than parrots, though our next door neighbor is a piece of work who has multiple chickens indoors 100% of the time!?!?!?! She seemed surprised that they were destroying her wall to wall carpeting. It is interesting that she chose to buy that house, with our possibly illicit chickens next door, but at least she knew we were critter people, too. We have an acre and are in a "rural district," but technically don't have enough land to farm (though in the city of Indianapolis, on a 1/4 acre lot, you can have chickens--go figure).

If you're going to keep your birds forever, handle them a lot as babies. It makes a big difference. Sometimes they get a little distant as they get to be older chicks until they reach point of lay, then they tend to get a little more lovey again. Try to get them as young as possible. We bought some 3 week old chicks that hadn't been handled, and they are still wild as the wind. I just hope their offspring won't be like that. We have had the best luck not raising more than 10 new chicks at a time (range of 3-15). Buying from hatcheries will give you the genders you want (we have never had a mis-sexed chick, but I know some have). I don't know what farm supply places are near you, but I do know Tractor Supply buys from Mt. Healthy which has had serious disease problems several years running. We bought ours in one of the years when there wasn't a disease problem, and bought some others at a Rural King that were also healthy. Swaps can be great, or terrible. Sometimes people know they have a disease issue, and they dump their sick or carrier birds on unsuspecting buyers. Caveat emptor!

Enjoy your venture. You will be busy. May we be blessed with a mild winter so we can all get some work done!
 
I'm afraid of those ;) I never know what I'll come home with. I went to one years ago and ended up with a baby donkey in my SUV. But the property I'm on now is part of a family (not mine) farm so I have to respect their wishes with what I drag in and might could just walk around, look and learn like a normal person. I'm in Jessamine County - how do you find out about them? Are they advertised?
 
Thanks again. I keep thinking of questions so I can read your replies because they crack me up. Your neighbor - you know, I love my animals but I also love my house and I'm afraid the chickens are relegated to their own. When you say you can't farm, do you mean that agriculture is restricted? I'm limited to a little over an acre here but have managed to squeeze in a good sized vegetable garden, fruit and nut trees, tons of berries, grapes, rain barrels and compost bins and a worm farm - and now chickens! I wouldn't call it farming so much as a hobby or an attempt at being semi-self sufficient. It is a lot of work and by this time of the year I'm ready for the winter and a break, but by February I'll be itching to get back out in the dirt again. I couldn't sustain this level of outside care year-round, though. The chickens are the only venture I'm willing to take on that don't go dormant and not require any care when the snow is falling. I've broken up ice in troughs and shoveled paths more cold days than I want to remember.

Which leads to another question - what do people do for covers on a fenced run? I learned the hard way when I was doing wildlife rehab that tarps fill up with water quickly, become very heavy and collapse the entire kennel (animals were fine but the metal was twisted terribly). Assuming we might get heavy snow, how to cover that portion of the chicken area to keep out predators? Just flat, with wire? Supported and sloped? Ah, one expense just leads to another...
 

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