Local Coop Maker Wanted

[chrissum]

Quote:
I am by no means a builder, that said, I built this shed with the help of my teen age daughter, I put 2 basement type windows in it and I found building this to be pretty east, only instead of nails I used all screws, my camera is out of town right now and maybe later I can add pictures. Another thing about this shed is there are no angles to cut. The windows, with screens, were pretty easy, you just cut a hole where you want the window, a little smaller than the window itself and there are screw holes to attach the windows to the shed side. Next year I may use this same system but build the barn style shed.
This is the window I used, cheap, has a removable screen:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_13328-78360...pl=1&currentURL=/pl__0__s?Ntt=basement+window
Hope this helps!

Got it. Hmmm. So what did the whole thing cost to make?

Seems it was aroung 500-600 dollars, I had some wood around here as well, found some scraps as well. I did build mine on three 4x4 skids with the thickest plywood you could buy for the floor, covered it with limoleum, sheds of equal size, pre-built cost around twice as much.

 

[terris]

Does anyone know if I make the converticoop by catawba in cedar, would it make the coop lighter so I can move it? Also, if so, is cedar really expensive?

 

[Msbear]

If you don't purchase the cedar at Home Depot and head to a sawmill, it should be fairly inexpensive. Buy half inch stuff ..can even be rough sawn if you're letting it weather (cheaper). The half inch stuff is actually more like 3/8's and will be plenty sufficient for your job while still keeping it light.

 

[terris]

Quote:
Thanks. If I can use cedar and still keep the converticoop under $175, that is the way I will go. Now, I just have to see if I can build it.

I found a great little run to use while I clean the converticoop. He made a hoop structure out of electrical conduit and 2 x 2s. The run cost $30. For some reason I like this better than the rectangles. Check it out

Pretty good for 30. I will making mine longer. I used to use my Kittywalk for this purpose. I had a heck of a time getting the chickens out when I wanted to put them in the coop though. Hopefully I can scoot them better since the run is rigid.

Thanks for your help everyone.

My BSF set up starts next week (in winter in PA yes I know). The coop building shortly after. Hopefully all will be ready for chickens come March.

 

[CountryFried]

Quote:
Thanks for the info. When you say cut the long sides in half, do you make the coop 4' long rather than 8'? How many chickens could I put in a 4 x 3' area?

This coop was perfect because I could access it from the top, it is beautiful which is the ONLY thing that will please my neighbors, I can move it as I cannot afford to get a "pretty" compose pile going for the bedding if the coop was stationary, etc.

There was a better similar one on a video from the UK but no plans and no way to contact those folks. A third A frame tractor out there is way too flimsy for all of the Predators around here and we have everything but bears.

If you put wheels (heavy duty, TSC has some I think would work) on the Converticoop, then the weight wouldn't be an issue. By long sides, I meant the panels that make the "roof". They are three 1"x6"x8' boards screwed together in an overlap. They are incredibly difficult to maneuver solo.

I WOULD make whatever you can on the coop out of treated wood, because of the ground contact, but not those sides. That part is a poor design, and I can't believe other people haven't had problems with it.

(I read further and saw you'd like to use cedar, that's probably a GREAT idea. I priced it at Lowe's and it was out of my price range (for a different project)