Looking for suggestions

[Kaleen Morris]

Very good point being winter.
You can worm them now. I do not know where you are located or what type of stores you have available. Look for a “broad spectrum” wormer that will take care of a wide variety of worms. I started with wazine (which is what I had available. It kills round worms (the most common worm) in their water. Then I followed up with invermectin for other types of worms. See what your choices are in your area. You can always come here for suggestions based on what’s available to you.
You could find a dusting powder for mites. Remove all bedding dust each bird paying attention to the vent/under wings and leg area. Come spring you could clean out spray the coop and your birds. This is what I would do.
Please don’t feel bad. We ALL learn. The only way I’ve ever learned myself. You just don’t know you’ve got a problem until you do right?
The good news is that your a concerned chicken owner and it’s just a little life lesson. Dang chickens!!! LOL
So find out what you have available as far as Dusting powder. And wormers. And let us know.

 

[Kaleen Morris]

All wormers and sprays come with a suggested “egg withdrawal period” meaning the manufacturer suggests that you do not consume eggs during that period of time. Some people stick strictly with the instructions.
Some will feed the scrambled eggs back to the birds as not to waste them. Usually after a week. But... then you have a second treatment in 10-12 days (depends on product) so effectively you could go one month without eggs.

 

[Kaleen Morris]

If it were me this is what I would do. I’d get powder. I’d get permethrin. I’d clean out and replace the bedding and powder the coop. If you can get permethrin you could apply it .... like they do for dogs flea medication. In a squeeze bottle mix some permethrin (according to directions) and apply small amounts at the top of the back(above vent) a dab under each wing a few dabs down the back of the bird and a dab between the legs where they would lay on the roost. I’d wipe down the roosts where they sleep at night.

 

[Kaleen Morris]

You're all so helpful and informative THANK YOU! I'm going to go w/your suggestions and get those girls and coops mite free, worm free and healthy. Any suggestions on my coop issue, Let them stay in the small kit coop or close that off and force them back into the larger coop?

 

[MissChick@dee]

Well...if they are in the kit coop. Clean out the large one. Then treat the girls. Then put them in the larger one. Then the little coop kit could be cleaned out. Always good to have a backup coop. I wish I had one

 

[staceyj]

Well...if they are in the kit coop. Clean out the large one. Then treat the girls. Then put them in the larger one. Then the little coop kit could be cleaned out. Always good to have a backup coop. I wish I had one

I agree. A spare coop is never a bad idea.
Just be sure to close it to keep them out. Then when you clean it out and treat it keep it closed so that it’ll be a “ready spot” in case of reoccurrence.

 

[Wyorp Rock]

One of my hens "Jody Jane" has some vent issues. She had poop stuck in her feather and her vent was very irritated, Pink and had white secretion coming out.

Hi @Kaleen Morris Welcome To BYC Looks like you have a few things going on, I'll try to address the ones that stand out to me.
If you have photos of the vent that would be great. From your description of a white secretion coming out - it sounds like your girl has Vent Gleet.
Here's some reading for you on that:
https://www.tillysnest.com/2012/12/vent-gleet-prevention-and-treatment-html/
https://www.mypetchicken.com/backya...s-vent-gleet-and-how-can-I-treat-my-H491.aspx

Already she is looking better and she's eating and drinking like she's never had food or water before. She is missing alot of back feathers and has always looked ugly and had a lack of feather or had broken feathers in her back and head area. I assumed was being pecked on

See your photo? Those missing feathers on the head look like loss from mating. You have a rooster? That's where probably most of her feather loss on the body is coming from too. She does have quite a few loose feathers on her breast, she might be molting, but in your photos they look broken/damaged. The bald head says mating - is she your rooster's favorite or is she low in pecking order?
How many feed stations do you have for your flock and what do you feed? You mention that she's eating/drinking like she has never had food - have you observed whether or not she was being kept from food or that the rooster was bothering her so much she couldn't eat or she was isolating herself?

Also is there anything else to use for her vent? I don't understand why I got 2 hens with vent issues.

You had 2 hens with what I suspect is Vent Gleet. Are both these hens lowest in pecking order and the rooster's favorites?
It would be a good idea to take a look at the rooster's vent as well.

Good ideas from everyone. I agree treating for external parasites, the SLM and worms.
Ivermectin will take care of body lice/mites and SLM and maybe roundworms. It has lost a lot of it's effectiveness over the years in control of internal parasites. General consensus for Ivermectin is to treat, then repeat in 10 days. Some mention repeat 2X.
Timeline on withdrawal is 28 days after last treatment. Be sure to weigh your chickens to give the correct dosage. Dosage for Ivermectin Pour On is 0.09ml per pound of weight, administer along the base of the neck along the spine, it does need to make contact with the skin.

Wazine (Piperazine) will treat roundworms only. Read the label about how to administer that.

If you want to treat most worms that chickens have, use either Safeguard (Fenbendazole) or Valbazen. Again, you need to weigh your chickens to give the correct dosage.
Valbazen dose is 0.08ml per pound of weight given orally, repeat in 10days.
Safeguard dose is .23ml per pound of weight given orally for 5 days in a row.

Of course, getting a fecal float through your vet is always a good idea to get confirmation on worm load and type.

As for your coop problem - with cold weather coming on - that's stressful. You may want to wait until it warms as bit before you make any major changes/upset in housing. Chickens do not like change.

Just my 2¢

 

[azygous]

Just got back from town and outrunning a blizzard. Good times.

To use Ivermectin on chickens, it's 0.045 ml per pound, so a 5 pound chicken would get 0.23 ml (round up to 0,25 ml). Or if you are like me, and too lazy to weigh, measure, and calculate, it would be one drop on the skin on the back of the neck of a bantam or two drops for a standard chicken, and three drops for heavy breeds such as Brahmas and Cochins.

Ivermectin will treat internal parasites (worms) and leg mites and external lice and mites. It's labeled for cattle, but it's fine to use on poultry using the dosages above.

 

[azygous]

I would treat the entire flock with Ivermectin. Repeat treatment in two weeks to get any that have hatched since the first.