Lost 6 babies today. Feeling pretty heartbroken

[FloorCandy]

I think it’s likely your water was too close to the heat, the rocks warm up and the chicks lay on them, and they can drown or get chilled. If your chicks were 2 weeks, they can use a cup style waterer, like parakeet waterers or the kind you attach to soda bottles. Also, I remove heat at 2 weeks and have never lost one to cold, my house fluctuates between 67-70 degrees. If your birds died from temps similar to that, I’m thinking they might not be feathering and developing fast enough. Check your feed, is it for gamebirds? Does it have 28% or so protein? Were you moving the heat light away incrementally as they developed so they would adjust to lower temps?

 

[louiserivergod151]

I think it’s likely your water was too close to the heat, the rocks warm up and the chicks lay on them, and they can drown or get chilled. If your chicks were 2 weeks, they can use a cup style waterer, like parakeet waterers or the kind you attach to soda bottles. Also, I remove heat at 2 weeks and have never lost one to cold, my house fluctuates between 67-70 degrees. If your birds died from temps similar to that, I’m thinking they might not be feathering and developing fast enough. Check your feed, is it for gamebirds? Does it have 28% or so protein? Were you moving the heat light away incrementally as they developed so they would adjust to lower temps?

thats a very good point, they werent fully feathered yet just wing feathers mostly, and thinking about it theyve been on regular chick crumb as a breeder told me its near enough the same so perhaps they were behind on development. ill look out for game feed for the next batch see if that helps. it could be that too, the heat lamp is in the middle attached to the grill bar lid but if the rocks were warm then that makes sense, theyve just never done it before so not sure why she slept there this time. Might try those nipple drinkers see if that works better. im used to chickens so quail definitely come with their own set of challenges

 

[FloorCandy]

thats a very good point, they werent fully feathered yet just wing feathers mostly, and thinking about it theyve been on regular chick crumb as a breeder told me its near enough the same so perhaps they were behind on development. ill look out for game feed for the next batch see if that helps. it could be that too, the heat lamp is in the middle attached to the grill bar lid but if the rocks were warm then that makes sense, theyve just never done it before so not sure why she slept there this time. Might try those nipple drinkers see if that works better. im used to chickens so quail definitely come with their own set of challenges

In my experience, Coturnix Quail chicks can not operate nipples until they are 3 weeks.

I use the small waterers in the photo until my Coturnix are about 1 1/2 to 2 weeks old, then I move up to plastic cup style waterers, that are weighted and fill on their own. At 3 weeks i move on to nipple waterers.

I have the little green waterers in the brooder right from hatch, and on the first couple days I have a plastic lid with rocks in it holding water as well.

Normal chicken chick feed is not appropriate for quail and you will get very stunted development and can experience significantly higher loss. Many people use normal chicken layer feed for their adult quail with great success, but chicks need specialized feed.

 

[Mountain Roost]

Sorry for your loss. It is hard to lose the babies.

When brooding I like to use the ceramic reptile heat emitters. They are more durable. Also, you could look into using a thermometer with an alarm that would sound when temps get too low. I use an Inkbird for incubating and it has a loud alarm when the temp would fluctuate and could be used in a brooder.

I had a duckling fling water on a brooder bulb once and it shattered. Won't do that again.

I wish you great success on your next batch.

 

[Lizzy733]

Yeah, what was your heat source and was it on a thermostat? Red bulbs pop very easily and sometimes shatter. Their only benefit is that they will definitely provide enough heat - usually too much, and should always be used with a thermostat.

My last 150watt (all I had on hand that could hit 35c in my big brooder) lasted a little over a week, but that's all I needed it to as I had 100w ceramic heat emitters ready to go.

Also had seedmat heat pads in there, though they were averaging around 27-28.

I have a reptile, so always have spares handy.

When dealing with this kinda heat, you need a ceramic socket (plastics will melt and malfunction) and a cage is strongly recommended - especially if they'll be fledging under that lamp.

Reds should always be used with a thermostat as the can easily get up to 50c+ directly underneath. Thankfully, their heat is only directional, but they also chill quickly when blown. Ceramic bulbs retain heat longer and provide radial heat, but also take longer to warm up. If they blow, it can take a bit of time for the heat to dissipate, but they hardly ever do. I've even gone as far as to use an IR deep penetrating heat projector for one of my hatches. They're a bit pricier than your standard ceramics though.

With the right setup and the use of a handy thermostat with a secured probe, heat bulbs shouldn't pose a fire hazard.

If you're paranoid it may happen again there are 'smart' temperature probes which can alert you if the temp drops below a set number, or you can add a heated seed may or reptile mat wrapped in a towel for a bit if supplementary warmth which will protect from everything except a power outage(They're waterproof and can be washed. Very hardy, and meant that be on constantly).

 

[NatJ]

if the rocks were warm then that makes sense, theyve just never done it before so not sure why she slept there this time.

Maybe because there were no others to cuddle with? (Just guessing, since it was the chick's first night alone after the others died.)

im thinking of having 2 lamps on of a night (both together on the same side so the chicks can move to the other end to cool if they need to) that way if one goes in the night, the other is there as a back up so they stay warm until i attend to them in the morning. cant think what else i can do.

If you have 2 lamps on at night, check to be sure it doesn't get too hot. Yes, making sure the other end stays cool is very good.

You could buy an extra one or two bulbs to have on the shelf. That way if one goes out, you can put in a new bulb and then drive to the store to get a new spare.

 

[Lizzy733]

A heat gradient is what you want to strive for - a warm end and a cold end. Feed and water should preferably go on the cooler end so they have to venture out for it.

 

[FloorCandy]

Pardon the bad quality, I just snapped a quick pic before I cleaned the brooder.

These chicks are 2 weeks and 1-2 days old, my suspicion is that the real cause of death was mostly improper feed, and the heat loss sped things up. At 2 weeks they should basically be fully feathered other than the head. My suspicion is that although it’s always good to be diligent about bulbs and backups etc, once you get proper feed I bet your chicks will be strong and healthy and won’t be as accident prone. It’s a shame someone gave you bad info, but 2 weeks old with just primaries and all still alive until the heat went is really a tribute to the rest of your care being very good.

 

[louiserivergod151]

Sorry for your loss. It is hard to lose the babies.

When brooding I like to use the ceramic reptile heat emitters. They are more durable. Also, you could look into using a thermometer with an alarm that would sound when temps get too low. I use an Inkbird for incubating and it has a loud alarm when the temp would fluctuate and could be used in a brooder.

I had a duckling fling water on a brooder bulb once and it shattered. Won't do that again.

I wish you great success on your next batch.

Thank you, i do have a digital thermometer (Rcom) which has an alarm but admittedly not very loud. I may try a brinsea heater, the sort they sit under..see if that helps.

 

[louiserivergod151]

Yeah, what was your heat source and was it on a thermostat? Red bulbs pop very easily and sometimes shatter. Their only benefit is that they will definitely provide enough heat - usually too much, and should always be used with a thermostat.

My last 150watt (all I had on hand that could hit 35c in my big brooder) lasted a little over a week, but that's all I needed it to as I had 100w ceramic heat emitters ready to go.

Also had seedmat heat pads in there, though they were averaging around 27-28.

I have a reptile, so always have spares handy.

When dealing with this kinda heat, you need a ceramic socket (plastics will melt and malfunction) and a cage is strongly recommended - especially if they'll be fledging under that lamp.

Reds should always be used with a thermostat as the can easily get up to 50c+ directly underneath. Thankfully, their heat is only directional, but they also chill quickly when blown. Ceramic bulbs retain heat longer and provide radial heat, but also take longer to warm up. If they blow, it can take a bit of time for the heat to dissipate, but they hardly ever do. I've even gone as far as to use an IR deep penetrating heat projector for one of my hatches. They're a bit pricier than your standard ceramics though.

With the right setup and the use of a handy thermostat with a secured probe, heat bulbs shouldn't pose a fire hazard.

If you're paranoid it may happen again there are 'smart' temperature probes which can alert you if the temp drops below a set number, or you can add a heated seed may or reptile mat wrapped in a towel for a bit if supplementary warmth which will protect from everything except a power outage(They're waterproof and can be washed. Very hardy, and meant that be on constantly).

Im not sure what w the bulb was as I threw the box out but Ive since bough a couple 40w reptile heat bulbs (as when attached to the grill lid of the brooder box its relatively low to where the chicks are) and a couple 100w for when they go to the bigger brooder. I have an Rcom digital thermostat/Hygrometer which has an alarm but when upstairs asleep I definitely wouldn't hear it. Im thinking of buying a Brinsea heat plate to see if that works any better and buy more pebbles as i already have a small drinker.

Just received a batch of eggs this morning and they have mites crawling all over them not sure how to kill them off before putting in my incubator...dont want the silly little things to be infested with mites the moment they hatch. bloodyjoy!