Marans Thread - breed discussion & pictures are welcome!

Bev,
Do they absolutely positively HAVE TO HAVE feathers on their outer toe?



Pink, the way I read the SOP, lack of feathers on the toes would be a fault only. Lack of shank feathers a DQ. Am I wrong here in thinking this?
 
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Hi Geebs

I have been trying to get the gold in the hackles since 2005 but was mainly breeding for egg color. I must admit that the hackles weren't the prime importance. If I hadn't got the egg color I hadn't got a Marans. I have however been concentrating on the hackles for the past couple of years and it has got better each year. As soon as I can I'll take some pictures.

Bev

Agreed!!!!!!!! X 1000%
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Bev,
A few posts back you mentioned that you have a blue copper roo with some red in the breast and that this is a first for you, how much red does he have in his breast?
Thanks!

Hi

He has quite a bit, enough for me to be alarmed but I did consult a genetic expert and he said to breed from him. I will test mate him first though to make sure he is not carrying any genes that I want to include in my line. I'll do this by mating him with a wheaten and if I get anything but black or blue copper he will go. I have people looking after my birds for me from time to time so have to make sure he is what he looks like.

Bev
 
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Agreed!!!!!!!! X 1000%
smile.png


Bev,
A few posts back you mentioned that you have a blue copper roo with some red in the breast and that this is a first for you, how much red does he have in his breast?
Thanks!

Hi

He has quite a bit, enough for me to be alarmed but I did consult a genetic expert and he said to breed from him. I will test mate him first though to make sure he is not carrying any genes that I want to include in my line. I'll do this by mating him with a wheaten and if I get anything but black or blue copper he will go. I have people looking after my birds for me from time to time so have to make sure he is what he looks like.

Bev

Thanks for that Bev. I hope his is what you are looking for and I will be patiently waiting to hear the results of his testing. Go BLUE COPPERS!!!!!!!!!
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Lack of shank feathering would be a DQ if you are showing them and say they are the "French" type.
 
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Hi

There is a fine of up to $25.000 so I wouldn't try it if I were you. Another point to consider is you might be bringing in eggs from a breeder that is not as careful as you might like. When I was at a show in France I was told by the then president of the French Marans CLub that there were breeders over there that couldn't tell the difference between a black copper rooster and a wheaten rooster and had mixed them.

Bev
 
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Hi

There is a fine of up to $25.000 so I wouldn't try it if I were you. Another point to consider is you might be bringing in eggs from a breeder that is not as careful as you might like. When I was at a show in France I was told by the then president of the French Marans CLub that there were breeders over there that couldn't tell the difference between a black copper rooster and a wheaten rooster and had mixed them.

Bev

Yes!! Not to mention that you may be bringing back some type of disease or traits we may not have yet. Not a good idea in my mind.
 
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Hi

Here is the general standard

Disqualifications (approved 7/26/10)
Yellow on shanks or toes. White ear lobes. Pearl or black eyes. Absence of feathers on shanks. (See General Disqualifications and Cutting for Defects.)

Standard Weights (approved 6/11/10)
Cock….…..8 lbs Hen……6 1/2 lbs
Cockerel….7lbs Pullet…..5 1/2 lbs

Shape—Male (approved 6/11/10)
COMB: Single, moderately large, straight, upright, evenly serrated with five points; the blade not touching the neck.
BEAK: Long, stout and well curved.
FACE: Smooth, skin fine and soft in texture.
EYES: Large and prominent.
WATTLES: Medium in size, oval, skin fine in texture.
EAR-LOBES: Average in size, long.
HEAD: Moderate in size, slightly flattened on top, and long.
NECK: Moderately long and full, arched. Hackle abundant, flowing well over the shoulders.
BACK: Wide at the shoulders, long, flat, slightly tilted to the rear. Slightly more inclined than that of the female.
Saddle feathers -- abundant, saddle large and slightly raised.
TAIL: Full, rather short, carried at an angle of 45 degrees above horizontal.
Main tail feathers -- broad and overlapping, shorter than average.
Sickles -- shorter than average.
WINGS: Short, held close to the body, carriage nearly horizontal.
Primaries and secondaries -- broad and overlapping in natural order when wing is folded.
BREAST: Strong, broad, and full. Well rounded when viewed from both the front and side.
BODY AND FLUFF: Body -- deep, long and broad, especially through the shoulders which are carried high. Overall, rectangular in shape.
Fluff -- medium in length.
LEGS and TOES: Legs set well apart and straight when viewed from the front.
Lower thighs -- strong and well feathered.
Shanks -- medium length, stout, and straight; lightly feathered down the outer sides.
Toes -- four long and well-separated toes on each foot. Outer toes lightly feathered, middle toes free from feathers.
PLUMAGE: Moderately tight and smooth textured.

Shape—Female (approved 7/09/10)

COMB: Single, smaller than that of the male; straight and upright, evenly serrated with five points, and fine in texture. No female in or near production with the rear portion of the comb lopped should be discriminated against.
BEAK: Long, stout and well curved.
FACE: Smooth, skin fine and soft in texture.
EYES: Large and prominent.
WATTLES: Medium in size, oval.
EAR-LOBES: Average in size, long.
HEAD: Moderate in size, slightly flattened on top, and long.
BACK: Wide at the shoulders, long, flat, and slightly tilted to the rear. Slightly less inclined that that of the male.
NECK: Moderately long and full, arched.
TAIL: Full, rather short, carried at an angle of 45 degrees above horizontal.
Main tail feathers -- broad and overlapping, shorter than average.
WINGS: Short, held close to the body, carriage nearly horizontal.
Primaries and secondaries -- broad and overlapping in natural order when wing is folded.
BREAST: Strong, broad, and full. Well rounded when viewed from both the front and side.
BODY AND FLUFF: Body -- deep, long and broad, especially through the shoulders which are carried high. Should be more rounded than the male.
Fluff -- medium in length.
LEGS AND TOES: Legs set well apart, straight when viewed from the front.
Lower Thighs -- strong and well feathered.
Shanks -- medium length, stout, and straight; lightly feathered down the outer sides.
Toes -- four long and well-separated toes on each foot. Outer toes lightly feathered, middle toes free from feathers..
PLUMAGE: Moderately tight and smooth textured.

Bev,
Do they absolutely positively HAVE TO HAVE feathers on their outer toe?

Hi

They should be a line of feathers down the outer leg and toe.

I agree, it is getting hard breeding these birds to be close to the standard but we have to remember that no one has a perfect bird. A bird will have one or two faults but as long as there isn't a DQ fault then the judge will deduct points and the bird could still win.

Bev
 
Thank you Bev. I only ask because I prefer birds with the line of shank feathering but I do not prefer birds with the outer toe feathered. Didn't it use to be either way? What was the determining factor to change that in the proposed standards? Was it a collective like for folks or is it because with the outer toe being feathered it just completes the look?
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Lisa, In my very limited experience with chickens if I had to pick one amount of time for the juve molt I would say 16 weeks and this will vary either way a small amount. Don
 
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Lisa, In my very limited experience with chickens if I had to pick one amount of time for the juve molt I would say 16 weeks and this will vary either way a small amount. Don

Next question too please.
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