Metal Roof

[Kewlhanded]

I can't really tell from the picture but here's my 2 cents. Water can and will work its way up the metal if; the metal ribs are not overlaped properly from top and bottom, if improperly capped it will leak from the top down (leak will always start from the highest point and work it's way down), vents should flow well (cross ventilation) if not, it could be take'n in moisture and not releasing any, if the rake of the roof is not steep enough water will always work its way up, if there is a leak the water will find it and when it does it only gets worse (those darn bonded hydrogen ions), if rubber bushings on the screws are not flush it could leak through the screws. Also rake trim can solve a side leaking problem if rain is getting in sideways. Hope this helped a little, good luck, and if you can post a close up of the roof, capping, and vents.

 

[ice329]

I think part of the problem is its just a overhang behind a big metal building... not the same structute just studs, joists and the roof layed on top. There is about a 1 foot pitch. My next move was gonna be to get up there with a can of some type of sealer and seal the seams and hit each screw head... so I am not gonna rebuild the whole roof to make it right. The whole area is not a high and dry spot it sort of a low spot anyway so I am sure that is not helping matters. Thanks for the help and when I get up there i will snap a pic or two but there wont be anything except the metal pieces overlaping layed flat.

 

[gsim]

I did a post at top of page 2 and was thinking about 3 things as I read more on this. Ventilation-ventilation-ventilation.

Outside of that, if you have a dirt floor, that and the vapor from poop and chooks breathing is going to make it really tough to get it dry enough. Always good to put sheet metal over roofing felt unless it is a carport. If it is a dirt floor in a low area that stays soggy, forget it. Either relocate, or put an elevated wooden floor in with a linoleum top. Even with that if it has inadequate ventilation, the chooks can become sick to the point that not only will the egg production stop, the flock or part of it might have to be replaced.

I did1 sq ft permanent full-time ventilation for each 4 chooks just above top of walls, with an elevated wooden floor coop and it is dry in there no matter what the weather and no mildew anywhere.

 

[ice329]

Thank Gsim, I did build it on elevated floor. Lino is also over the flooring. I know it could be fixed with blowers,and heat, drainage pipes and prob one or two other things... but in the end I am sure I an gonna tear it down and rebuild it or.. give then a wooden shed... I didnt want to do that because its like brand new and its up near the house... so i am gonna get on something today..

 

[Jeff in Colorado]

gsim seems to be on the right track. First determine where the moisture is coming from. Is it only from the chickens or do you have another water source that is creating higher than normal humidity. Do you have a leaky roof, do you have propper drainage around your coop, is the waterer leaking, are lawn sprinklers hitting it at night, etc.

Then fix the source of the water if you have above normal humidity. If your humidity is only caused by the chickens then the steps to solve that are pretty simple. Adding ventilation is the first step. Add vents low in the coop as well as high in the coop so you get a chimney effect and cross ventilation. You need to think about where air will come in and where air will go out and pick the best spots to locate the vents accordingly.

If that doesn't fix it then you go to adding foam insulation or fiberglass insulation (with a vapor barrier). The concept is to manage the location of the dew point. Right now the bottom of the metal is below the dew point so water condenses on the surface. If you only add fiberglass insulation you are just moving the dew point from the surface of the metal to a spot somewhere in the fiberglass batt. If you do not have a vapor barrier you will just have condensation in the batt and may get mold. This is where rigid foam insulation is advantageous. Being as it is water/air proof the humid air cannot enter the insulation and condensate because the dew point is encapsulated within the core of the insulation where the humid air cannot reach. However, this is where installation becomes critical. If you just loosely install the foam, humid air will just go around the foam and still condensate on the metal. To prevent this you install the foam without cracks or gaps. Use caulking or canned foam to fill gaps or holes and you will be fine.

Hope this helps.