Michigan Thread - all are welcome!

[wannahomestead]

Start with plans for constructing a basic shed.
Or you could buy a shed and fit it out.
Building your own would be best as purchased sheds usually have little to no roof overhang,
which I find to be essential for ease of ventilation in all weather.

Start sketching floor plans to scale on graph paper...showing pens, runs, doors, windows, storage.
Thinking it out on paper is always my go to, but then I'm a drafter by trade...
.......easy to fix mistakes and/or look at various configurations with paper and pencil/eraser.

thx for the advice on planning it out on paper. I'm new to the whole "building stuff" thing. that's part of why I want to build instead of buy .

What considerations do I need to make for the foundation? I've seen those pier blocks used in videos, but I'm not sure on what considerations to take in Mi specifically w/ our frost/freeze.

 

[RaZ]

thx for the advice on planning it out on paper. I'm new to the whole "building stuff" thing. that's part of why I want to build instead of buy .

What considerations do I need to make for the foundation? I've seen those pier blocks used in videos, but I'm not sure on what considerations to take in Mi specifically w/ our frost/freeze.

It all depends on how sturdy you want to make it. Will this be a permanent structure meant to last for years? Or just something to house chickens for a couple of seasons? Also, are you seeking permission from the local authorities? They may have goofy "rules" to follow. For example, Garden City considers the shade cloth over my garden as a "structure". My arraignment is in a few weeks.

 

[wannahomestead]

It all depends on how sturdy you want to make it. Will this be a permanent structure meant to last for years? Or just something to house chickens for a couple of seasons? Also, are you seeking permission from the local authorities? They may have goofy "rules" to follow. For example, Garden City considers the shade cloth over my garden as a "structure". My arraignment is in a few weeks.

Garden City sounds like a cluster :-/ Good luck to you.

I'd like it to be more permanent, I would likely leave it and rebuild should I ever sell the home.

I don't want to go so permanent that I am pouring a concrete slab, but I want it to be something that is a value add to the home, and will last a while.

I guess the answer is "decently permanent" lol.

 

[aart]

Quote: I can't speak to foundations, no real experience..it can depend on the soil where you're building.
Raz brings up a good point....building codes, zoning, tax base, etc could have an impact on your plans.
Might be a good idea to have a builder(s) come out and give you an estimate to build (maybe don't tell them you're going to built it yourself).
Ask specifically about foundation needs, what permits would be needed and cost...that would give you and idea of what the rules are in your area without contacting the 'authorities' directly.

 

[WalnutHill]

Many municipalities have ordinances available online. Whatever you build, be very careful about side and rear yard setbacks, and distance to surrounding homes. Generally accessory buildings under 200 square feet have the fewest restrictions, and can often be built on piers. Use the concrete tubes from your local building supply store, and place one every 6-8 feet to prevent sagging. The pier holes will be below frost line.

The good thing about piers is that you can have good ventilation under the floor by raising the building, helping to keep the coop dry inside. The bad thing about piers is that the raised building makes a great place for skunks and woodchucks and other critters to establish a home, so you also need to bury wire fencing that is firmly attached to the building. The precast foundation blocks are worthless without unimproved bases (like piers) as they will sink in with every frost break or wet season.

You can build on concrete slab, but that is moist and holds chill, not ideal for birds. You can build masonry walls with footings below frost line, but that's expensive. Piers and heavy floor framing (timbers across the piers, attached via bolts set into the concrete when pouring) and then the building itself built atop the timber frame, will make for a long lasting, dry building.

My dad built a coop 30" off the ground on piers of old telephone poles. It was there 20+ years before a developer leveled the site and was still sound and dry.

We built 2 14 x 24 raised platforms on 4 x 4 piers and built hoop coops atop the platform. The older one is 11 years old and sound as can be.

You can also place timber skids directly on gravel beds. This won't last as long as piers, but is fairly easily reversible if you plan to remove the shed in a few years.

This video is one of a series. I only looked at the first couple, but you can get some ideas here. As with everything else, treat internet info cautiously.

 

[1muttsfan]

I set my big coop on cedar posts. My small coop sits on a frame of 4x4 treated lumber, which sits in turn on a bed of gravel. Since they are movable and not fixed to the ground, they are not considered permanent structures. May be different where you live, though. They both have plywood floors.

 

[wannahomestead]

Thanks for the advice so far everyone, I appreciate it a lot!



One clarifying point to make is that I want it "permanent" in the sense of I don't want to be rebuilding it in 5 years. I'm less about it being "permanent" in the eyes of any zoning or building code.

I'm not sure how much of a difference it makes, but I'm zoned Light Agricultural here, back up to farm land, and nearest neighbor is across the 2 lane hwy.

 

[uchytil]

Garden City sounds like a cluster :-/ Good luck to you.

I'd like it to be more permanent, I would likely leave it and rebuild should I ever sell the home.

I don't want to go so permanent that I am pouring a concrete slab, but I want it to be something that is a value add to the home, and will last a while.

I guess the answer is "decently permanent" lol.

Here's an idea: In our area we have the Amish built "Mast Mini-Barns" shed company. They build most all of them on 4x4 skids and deliver to site. They recommend placing the shed on leveled gravel bedding. This would be a "decently permanent" solution. If you have a similar company, or drive to Fremont (at the Skeels Road/M-120 intersection) you can tour hundreds at two close locations, take pictures, take measurements - hassle free. Usually there is nobody there. It gives you lots of ideas and you could draw from the data collected, or buy one, lol!. Long term - these building will heave without a solid foundation which is the cornerstone to keeping a square structure, windows crack, and doors get off square. But, hey, lot's of people do it and they last for a lot of years, Maybe longer than we do (without problems). Ask your town office about permits. Some townships do not require a permit for a certain size "shed'. Where I'm at you can have one 300 sqft or less w/o a permit. They'll tell you and also tell you set-back.

 

[wannahomestead]

My township refernces the county for building code, which then references 2009 michigan residential building code. That code says the following regarding permitting:

" 105.2. Work exempt from permit. Exemptions from permit requirements of the code shall not
be deemed to grant authorization for any work to be done in any manner in violation of the
provisions of the code or any other laws or ordinances of this jurisdiction. Permits shall not be
required for any of the following:

(i)One-story detached accessory structures used as tool and storage sheds, playhouses and
similar uses, provided the floor area does not exceed 120 square feet (11.15m2)."

So going the size i want, it sounds like I will need to explore building permit stuff :-/

 

[kjstanton]

Anybody know where I can buy fertile eggs for my broody hen? I would like a few gold laced buff. Prefer to buy in the Grand Rapids, MI area.